What I surfed on Tuesday. Told you it was good
Some more here:
Some more here:
REMINDER: THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to monitor the Forums. However, THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to review any materials submitted to or posted on the Forums, and remove, delete, redact or otherwise modify such materials, in its sole discretion and for any reason whatsoever, at any time and from time to time, without notice or further obligation to you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to display or post any materials provided by you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to disclose, at any time and from time to time, any information or materials that we deem necessary or appropriate to satisfy any applicable law, regulation, contract obligation, legal or dispute process or government request. Click on the following hyperlinks to further read the applicable Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.
*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
Surfed a beach break in La Jolla after work yesterday. Haven't surfed this spot since I was probably 12.
First surf in a week. 2-3 feet, onshore and dumpy.
I'm out 15 minutes and who paddles out?
Chloe Andino paddles out. He's frothing and chatting up the five of us in the lineup, asking us where we are from and if it was good here Monday with the south wind.
I said "Aren't you supposed to be on tour?"
"I fell off!"
"Congrats!"
He laughed.
"Looking forward to some more films!"
I mentioned I really liked his edit "Home-ish" and his choice of "Flying Shoes" by Townes Van Zant for the opening sequence. He told me where they filmed it.
Pretty rad to share waves and chat with a pro of that stature. Oh, and sweet Jesus he was sending it.
First surf in a week. 2-3 feet, onshore and dumpy.
I'm out 15 minutes and who paddles out?
Chloe Andino paddles out. He's frothing and chatting up the five of us in the lineup, asking us where we are from and if it was good here Monday with the south wind.
I said "Aren't you supposed to be on tour?"
"I fell off!"
"Congrats!"
He laughed.
"Looking forward to some more films!"
I mentioned I really liked his edit "Home-ish" and his choice of "Flying Shoes" by Townes Van Zant for the opening sequence. He told me where they filmed it.
Pretty rad to share waves and chat with a pro of that stature. Oh, and sweet Jesus he was sending it.
Last edited:
Ripping!
It's almost shocking seeing pros in real life. Just unbelievably good and powerful. Jordy and Soli Bailey at HTs :-o
It's almost shocking seeing pros in real life. Just unbelievably good and powerful. Jordy and Soli Bailey at HTs :-o
Super cool he is still motivated to surf that sh!t. Tour days are done and he doesnt need to “practice“ to make clips and movies. I am more of fan of him post tour than ever now. So much more real.
And just I magine how much better he’s gonna surf when he completes the post-tour retirement package and surfs twins exclusively. Like Kerr 2.0.
LOL
Surfed the world famous the bansai pipeline today and saw several other erBB members pulling into large tubes.
just kidding
just kidding
2-3 x OH at Outside point (like photo above). 30min to even rock off, then got 3 waves before snapping my leggie.
Heavy swim in and scramble up the boulders chased by 6ft of whitewater, but board was unscathed. Power of a good glass job.
Heavy swim in and scramble up the boulders chased by 6ft of whitewater, but board was unscathed. Power of a good glass job.
Last edited:
Sounds hectic Maz. The potential swim in when it's big and a lot of water moving, especially in the wrong direction, is on my mind more lately.
What kind of legrope?
What kind of legrope?
Old faithful O and E:
oceanandearth.com.au
I have 4 or 5 of them, and this one must have had a small nick, or just had to many long stretches.
Thankfully it wasn't hectic, just a bit of work and pain. Was just trying to think and aim for a good spot to come in (missed it, haha), and somehow find the board (nailed that). All is well.
Premium One-XT - 8ft
Need the world's strongest surfboard leash? The Premium One-XT leash in 7ft, features our patent one-piece technology: No Joins | No weak points.
oceanandearth.com.au
Thankfully it wasn't hectic, just a bit of work and pain. Was just trying to think and aim for a good spot to come in (missed it, haha), and somehow find the board (nailed that). All is well.
Quick session at north zone of the Beach late morning, nearly peak 6’ high tide. Middle zone looked disorganized and not worth it. Buoys were reading ~6ft @ 17 sec but wasn’t really reflecting that on the cams with the tide so I grabbed a standard shortboard. Dumpy HH+/- on the inner bar, some dumped to nothing, others were too walled, and every once in a while one lined up. Found one roll in that rolled for a little and then lined up even further inside with a nice bowly section for a turn. Ended up washed in and didn’t feel like paddling back out and called it.
As I was walking back to my car I saw some peaks way outside at mid beach, checked the cams a couple hours later when I got home and it looked cleaner with a crew out at mid zone—anyone give it a go?
As I was walking back to my car I saw some peaks way outside at mid beach, checked the cams a couple hours later when I got home and it looked cleaner with a crew out at mid zone—anyone give it a go?
I was in the same zone around the same time.
The side shore current kept it impossible to keep on the good bars. Kept getting swept into the swirlly rip with chaotic takeoff zone. All double ups to close outs. Not fun.
I surfed Saturday 9:30-10:30 or so.
Windy, sloppy, tide getting worse, but that was the window I had.
Paddled out at Moraga.
Got some shitty waves by myself before I got stuck in a current that dropped me between Judah and Lincoln.
Looked like there were some fun ones in a little window during game time.
Windy, sloppy, tide getting worse, but that was the window I had.
Paddled out at Moraga.
Got some shitty waves by myself before I got stuck in a current that dropped me between Judah and Lincoln.
Looked like there were some fun ones in a little window during game time.
Nice to get back in the water after a week or so. Couldn't quite get out before the wind came up as tide went back down. Still some fun corners at reef4 with 3 others out, maybe CH-SH with a ledgy drop and getting around one or two sections before closing out. Probably could've used some more foam/length to get in a bit earlier, but 5'10 quad was fun once up and riding. in hindsight, the inside ones looked like they ran down the line a little cleaner.
Nothing out of the ordinary here, other than a cold snap that brought well needed snow to the high country and an ice storm about a month ago now. In fact it's been somewhat dry and probably wetter in Central California. Jet typically drops a bit south during El Ninos, so mostly been getting missed or the edges of these pineapples. Been really warm too. Surfs been awful, no surf here
Surfed the point on the Kenson 9 2. Water is still pretty warm. Fun inside sections running down the line. Mild crowd with some regulars taking turns.
Pretty fun waves at the local. Knee feeling sore so I rode the 6-8 NPJ. It felt really good. Need to ride it more. Got a couple solid lefts before the tide dropped. Once the rip started up it was nearly impossible to hold position. Got solidly pounded by a couple sets and took a mushy right in.
The evening air was freaking cold walking back to my car.
The evening air was freaking cold walking back to my car.
What I surfed on Tuesday. Told you it was good
Some more here:
I spent a month in NZ and got so skunked.
That's nuts.