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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
High noon high tide surf. Bigger than it looked, so should've picked a different boar than the Aipa Con Fish. Wide bat tail just not a good fit in the steeper sections. Scratched into a few fun CH rights. Long paddles and was cooking in 3mil.
Bonus appearance by the mysto Mathdebater.
Bonus appearance by the mysto Mathdebater.
@Bob Dobbalina We just had three swells that size (photo) in 8 days: Sunday, Tuesday, Monday. And it's the middle of summer - nuts.
mid morning high tide, sat inside at a popular reef and got a ton of waves in a short time, caught a wave and basically paddled back out and got another one, 5'10 kenson quad was eating up the conditions. fun fun fun.
Overhearing aggro old fat guys in the lineup lamenting the crowds while they struggle on their inappropriately performance oriented tiny boards makes me feel young 
it’s like the worst beach break in the world, two foot, full of soft top kids…and the only thing worse than your attitude is your surfing! Get a longboard kooook
it’s like the worst beach break in the world, two foot, full of soft top kids…and the only thing worse than your attitude is your surfing! Get a longboard kooook
Pretty fun surf yesterday before this current storm front moved in. The swell was finally small enough to get outside of the bay and scope out some of the open beach sand bars. Saw a nearshore righthander tubing over and over but by the time I got my stuff together the tide had ripped it up. Ended up on an outside sand bar left that was also experiencing it's own troubles with the swiftly dropping tide. It was challenging to line up and hold position but I felt lucky to do as well as I did. Got like half a dozen fun ones and two that were actually quite exciting and better than I'd really hoped for. Rode the Lost Swordfish w/ L Mayhem thruster fins and it felt pretty good. Thought the tail might feel a little wide going backside in overhead waves but the faces were not so steep and I had no problems. A few swoops, slashes and a lot of paddling and duckdiving was enough to get me off given what has been on offer since I got home.
You know it's been a good winter when the not so good days still send you home with a smile.
Yeah. Not up here though. All my buddies said they surfed like 3x while I was gone. It's been yuuuge.
Yesterday 8-10am: mid beach looked crowded on the cams, opted to surf alone at the north end. Funky wedges, the best ones seemed to always be 20 yards from where I was, a couple here and there were pitching pretty square too but would mostly pinch. Regardless, still got a fun couple head dips under the peak and my best attempts at trying not to bog a turn on the burgery shoulder.
Surfed the dregs of yesterday's small swell, so waited 10 minutes for every chest high set, but conditions were beautiful and there were only three of us.
Then two others came out and I called it a day. By the time I'd paddled down the point and was standing on the rocks, 17 more dudes had paddled out, incl 5 old walrus SUPpers. Couldn't believe it.
Something about a fresh, clean wax job, so the Wolverine felt extra spritely.
Then two others came out and I called it a day. By the time I'd paddled down the point and was standing on the rocks, 17 more dudes had paddled out, incl 5 old walrus SUPpers. Couldn't believe it.
Something about a fresh, clean wax job, so the Wolverine felt extra spritely.
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Didn't surf this wave particularly well, but I was glad to see that troglodyte eat it on the rewind. Kinda mind-boggling how atrocious etiquette can be around here.
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Was def a good winter, lotsa really good sessions in good to epic conditions
Feb always seems to turn to sh!t, but have had some fun surfs w mediocre uncrowded conditions. 6’6 step up bucked last week, right near the buckle I repaired a couple months ago. Replacement is in the works
Feb always seems to turn to sh!t, but have had some fun surfs w mediocre uncrowded conditions. 6’6 step up bucked last week, right near the buckle I repaired a couple months ago. Replacement is in the works
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There's no etiquette. Trying to be polite is almost a fool's errand. I turned Wednesday into a little bit of a water polo game which entertained me. One surly oldertimer was complaining about the arms race the jetty had become which is why he was surfing where he was then he back-paddled everyone in the lineup repeatedly.
Surfed the very low tide. No crowd to speak of. Took out the Parmy which I haven't surfed in a while.
20 min paddle out took me 1.5 blocks north. Waves were a mixture of soft, very heavy, consistent, and clean-up sets. Somewhat of a buffet to sample. Got a couple keepers; pussed out pulling into a big one that drained hard and of course it nailed me anyway. Got caught inside for 15 mins of waves on the head.
Some guy would not stop talking to me. When he started complaining about how old he is while I am thinking he is younger than me. I just burned him and went in.
Overall fun.
20 min paddle out took me 1.5 blocks north. Waves were a mixture of soft, very heavy, consistent, and clean-up sets. Somewhat of a buffet to sample. Got a couple keepers; pussed out pulling into a big one that drained hard and of course it nailed me anyway. Got caught inside for 15 mins of waves on the head.
Some guy would not stop talking to me. When he started complaining about how old he is while I am thinking he is younger than me. I just burned him and went in.
Overall fun.
@vanrysss Holy backpaddle, batman! I've been eying that right but it always seems to closeout or mush-out.
I surfed a semi-secret beach break the other day. It's near a propitious marine engineering project currently happening. Seemed like some decent sandbars setting up. Also pretty fun logging session at the Swarm. Pretty mediocre stuff. Fingers crossed this big west swell delivers Sunday and Monday.
I surfed a semi-secret beach break the other day. It's near a propitious marine engineering project currently happening. Seemed like some decent sandbars setting up. Also pretty fun logging session at the Swarm. Pretty mediocre stuff. Fingers crossed this big west swell delivers Sunday and Monday.
Wow, fck that guy!
Got a mid-morning session yesterday on the incoming tide. Knee-waist high and clean. Nothing special, but nice to get in the water. Threw a set of quads in the Bullet to see how it would go, and was pleasantly surprised. Still have some experimenting to do, I think, as this was just some random fins I had in the drawer...KA larges in the front and AM quad rears.
Wind came up mid day yesterday and cleaned out the crowd at one of my favorite reefs but layed down some around 230. Paddled out with minor crowd. Me and 2 dudes sitting out the back getting the set waves for an hour and a half. 5 10 Kenson quad was fun and wore my 4/3 for the first time this year. Probably didn’t need it was pretty toasty.