nowhere to hide from this wind. Fancy ramen, xbox nhl, stupid life maintenance chores, rest.
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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
Surfed mid morning at the queen with the wifey. Wind got on it about 30 minutes before we showed, but I had a 'new to me' board (my first "normal" shortboard in a long time - picked it up after the classic failure) and the crowd was light at the rivermouth. Stoked we went. One hour of fun corners to be found amidst the junk.
Got some great waves, just had to navigate the sections, peaks, and close-outs galore. On an interesting note, last wave caught a corner and came around the section into a floater over the next section, down and up one more time against the lip, then in. Wifey said I was surfing better on this board than all my others. It's a used CI Peregrine from Dane's cast-offs. Not even an optimal board today. Man, I got me some more learnin' to do.
Super stoked we decided to go out amidst the junk.
Got some great waves, just had to navigate the sections, peaks, and close-outs galore. On an interesting note, last wave caught a corner and came around the section into a floater over the next section, down and up one more time against the lip, then in. Wifey said I was surfing better on this board than all my others. It's a used CI Peregrine from Dane's cast-offs. Not even an optimal board today. Man, I got me some more learnin' to do.
Super stoked we decided to go out amidst the junk.
My run this week of good conditions, luck, being in tune with the waves and my boar came to an end. Surf looked real fun this morning but I couldn’t get out of work obligations til early afternoon. By then wind had come up enough to crapify the building swell. Decided to hunt for a makeable corner at reef2 despite there being no one out and looking pretty chunky and lumpy. Sets were SH but shifty- it was a lot of work to get one. Tons of paddling and duckdiving the frothy bigger closeout sets that broke way outside. Had a decent fs wave that I was able to fit in 3 good fs hacks whenever the section stood up. Just about made it worth it, given it’s supposed to rain the next couple days.
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Baja. There has been a lot of surf. We had a solid week+ of back to back to back swells. Few days of strong offshores and drained out low tides in the evening. Normally this spot gets kind of stretched out and sectiony at the low but with the wind holding them up the waves were makeable race track runners. Few almondy tubes but mostly just open faces for slicing around on. Rode the 6-6 townsend twinny for the paddle power and glide. Despite the light weight xtr build it worked great in the stiff winds.
The winds backed off and it turned into a skatepark for four solid days. Everyone in camp was so surfed out there were times where it was empty and just pumping. Rode the 6-5 driver round tail a couple times on the bigger days. Lovely. Otherwise just been on the Bomdia which has become one of my all time favorites. Definitely did some of my best surfing in a long time the past few days on the board. Knowing that my trip was coming to an end I really pushed my last few sessions and now I am very, very sore.
Heading North. Kind of sad but Im ready to go home. I miss hot showers, flush toilets and waves that scare me.
probably not the best timing to head north. no idea what your local oregon forecast has in store, but norcal looks to be unruly for the next couple weeks
Sounds epic! Nice mix of boards too.
Took me only three days to get that kind of sore. After a long period of being really busy at work, I had the last three days off and just went ham. Really good swell Tue and Thu, and some long paddles to the big sandbar on Wed.
Two days of onshore crap coming up, perfectly timed.
Super fun CH-HH ground swell this evening on the low tide sandbar. Lefts were nice and walled up. Nobody out. Cotton candy sunset. Man, I love a good evening seshie. Rode the Lightbender again and kept asking myself why I let it sit in the rack unridden for months.
Back at it again in the morning.
Back at it again in the morning.
This winter's been really good. Going on a couple months with always something to surf usually head high or above. Today was 1-1.5 OH with occasional bigger sets (around the corner). Early on it was so offshore I got blown out of a couple I thought I had. It was the kind of day that sucked the air out of your lungs on the back side of the wave. 50 foot plumes of spray. And for the first time in my life (I think) I got sucked back over the falls punching though a lip. Not fun getting rag dolled. My back is feeling it now.
Lines-
Lines-
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Chest high leftovers of the a-frame flavor today were as good as the head-high main event yesterday. Been a good week. Low wave count with no apologies.
Then you just face it and take the fight. Onshore wind floateur, fresh from today. Ass out, arms out.
Did I shut down the thread with my wild shreds?
Post up, don't be timid
Post up, don't be timid
The silence is photoshopping in progressDid I shut down the thread with my wild shreds?
Post up, don't be timid
My local looked surgeable this evening but it is 40F and raining so I passed.
Also I can't compete with shoresy's wild shreds so why even bother...
Also I can't compete with shoresy's wild shreds so why even bother...
Waves were cooking this AM in SD. If you missed it, you really missed it.
8ft @ 17sec. So powerful and fast. Couldn't really tell where one point stopped and the next started, just one long freight train. Only got about 10-12 waves in 3 hours, but some 500m++.
Hard to say how big, but I saw a fair few that were 15-18ft on the face.
Hard to say how big, but I saw a fair few that were 15-18ft on the face.