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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
I do, and it DEFINITELY wasn't there BobD. Gotta go much further south, beyond where Dane would drive to.
Well today is a good day to not work.
Session one at the place with all the RVs , sooo god dam fun surfed for 2 hours. Driving home and saw the queen was all time.
Best low tide rivermouth since day 2 of the classic.
Went back out for session 3, looks like the pulse is gone
.
Get it while the getting is good. MOTE FUCKS HARD
Session one at the place with all the RVs , sooo god dam fun surfed for 2 hours. Driving home and saw the queen was all time.
Best low tide rivermouth since day 2 of the classic.
Went back out for session 3, looks like the pulse is gone
.Get it while the getting is good. MOTE FUCKS HARD
Expanding on this, the Fiji has speed for days , is super loose and can handle steep drops. You can carve pretty satisfying turns and it carries speed throughout.
Beamish was tripping out on the board the other day. Probably will have him whip me up his something similar at some point. I dont want to travel with this one. Its too magical
Beamish was tripping out on the board the other day. Probably will have him whip me up his something similar at some point. I dont want to travel with this one. Its too magical
went to this soft wave. good shape but on the weak side, testing the blindspots lower limits.
I was afraid it'd bog. the square1 did. BSpot goes...
I think I'm always gonna keep this one in the car.
I was afraid it'd bog. the square1 did. BSpot goes...
I think I'm always gonna keep this one in the car.
Attachments
I should have been there yesterday. Went right when the tide switched. Drove further south first and there was plenty of size but the tide was too low so I figured it would be good. Was fun but slightly too small to be working properly. Got 3 waves in about 3 minutes when I first paddled out but then it got slow and most of them didn't connect. Luckily there was only one other guy where I was. Was a nice day though and it's starting to get too hot in a 4/3.Well today is a good day to not work.
Session one at the place with all the RVs , sooo god dam fun surfed for 2 hours. Driving home and saw the queen was all time.
Best low tide rivermouth since day 2 of the classic.
Went back out for session 3, looks like the pulse is gone
Get it while the getting is good. MOTE FUCKS HARD
wore the 3/2 today. Went on the dead low tide and it was still pretty fun. Backdoored one micro barrel/headip. Good times.
think I was surfing with one of the gudaukas bros too, Dane? long blonde haired dude ripping with Giant Gary busy teeth. Super nice though
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Gave the shoulder sprain two weeks to heal up, paddled out yesterday during my morning window, waves were fun shoulder high rights at a reef with a few people on it. Got some good ones and the rust came off quickly. Shoulder a little sore this morning but not bad. 5'9 Kenson ppig felt good.
I finally got the Beamish Glider waxed and in the water. Onshore winds finally let up, and there was a 2-3 wind swell with a couple of + sets. These are not the conditions I got this board for, but it has been glaring at me to get off the wall and to the beach for weeks.
I had many concerns that I would not be able to turn it or that being so big, it would be just too awkward all around. Anyway, really fun and can see taking it out in larger surf. Bottom turning it was not an issue and it sat in the pocket and held a little wall effortlessly. Got some really fun waves in sht conditions.
Need to get used to planning ahead and picking the right waves because manhandling it to turn it around and get going is a task in itself. Also, post-surf my legs feel like heavy logs Stocked that I owe Beamish a sixer
I had many concerns that I would not be able to turn it or that being so big, it would be just too awkward all around. Anyway, really fun and can see taking it out in larger surf. Bottom turning it was not an issue and it sat in the pocket and held a little wall effortlessly. Got some really fun waves in sht conditions.
Need to get used to planning ahead and picking the right waves because manhandling it to turn it around and get going is a task in itself. Also, post-surf my legs feel like heavy logs
Stocked that I owe Beamish a sixer
“Surfed” for the third time yesterday evening
since breaking my wrist over 3 months ago.
It hurt, but was glorious being in the water, paddling around, being able to duckdive, and
hobbling to my feet 6 or 7 times with no crowd
and a couple of friends. Injuries suck, but
things are slowly looking up!
since breaking my wrist over 3 months ago.
It hurt, but was glorious being in the water, paddling around, being able to duckdive, and
hobbling to my feet 6 or 7 times with no crowd
and a couple of friends. Injuries suck, but
things are slowly looking up!
Fun afternoon sesh down by the mountain yesterday. Short interval, consistent peaks. Lots of steep drops with some shouldering off and some running a bit. Better lefts than rights. Beautiful afternoon weather was all the sweeter knowing that yet another storm was coming. Cheat code w/ h4 quads felt like a good call. My buddy rode his shortboard and was bogging some ass.
Haven’t longboarded for over 20years. Picked up a 9’8 x 23 x 2-7/8 that I thought would be a poor man’s glider. Paddled a few miles each way and surfed about a mile up and back down the beach. Board didn’t paddle as well as I thought and took
way more energy than I remember to position myself for the mushy knee high dribblers. Got one that stood up and cheater five’d to the sand. Was fun and good exercise.
way more energy than I remember to position myself for the mushy knee high dribblers. Got one that stood up and cheater five’d to the sand. Was fun and good exercise.
Couldn’t be bothered driving over to the BB to battle weekend warrior crowd. Opted for marginal conditions at local reef. Tried out a 7’0 FM. gave it 5 waves. Meh. Didn’t click with the rails- same as last Lovelace I tried.
Switched to Plasmic and salvaged the sesh. 6-8 guys out but really only me and another dude trading off on the sets. Stuck some punchy drops and fit in a couple turns. Bit of fun.
Switched to Plasmic and salvaged the sesh. 6-8 guys out but really only me and another dude trading off on the sets. Stuck some punchy drops and fit in a couple turns. Bit of fun.
What does FM stand for?
Funboard Model?
I'm looking for a board for going straight and bogging ass. Guess I'll keep searching.