What I surfed on Tuesday. Told you it was good
Some more here:
Some more here:
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And just I magine how much better he’s gonna surf when he completes the post-tour retirement package and surfs twins exclusively. Like Kerr 2.0.Super cool he is still motivated to surf that sh!t. Tour days are done and he doesnt need to “practice“ to make clips and movies. I am more of fan of him post tour than ever now. So much more real.
fxdAnd just I magine how much better he’s gonna surf when he completes the post-tour retirement package and surfs annything but mayhem exclusively. Like Kerr 2.0.
LOL
I was in the same zone around the same time.Quick session at north zone of the Beach late morning, nearly peak 6’ high tide. Middle zone looked disorganized and not worth it. Buoys were reading ~6ft @ 17 sec but wasn’t really reflecting that on the cams with the tide so I grabbed a standard shortboard. Dumpy HH+/- on the inner bar, some dumped to nothing, others were too walled, and every once in a while one lined up. Found one roll in that rolled for a little and then lined up even further inside with a nice bowly section for a turn. Ended up washed in and didn’t feel like paddling back out and called it.
As I was walking back to my car I saw some peaks way outside at mid beach, checked the cams a couple hours later when I got home and it looked cleaner with a crew out at mid zone—anyone give it a go?
Nothing out of the ordinary here, other than a cold snap that brought well needed snow to the high country and an ice storm about a month ago now. In fact it's been somewhat dry and probably wetter in Central California. Jet typically drops a bit south during El Ninos, so mostly been getting missed or the edges of these pineapples. Been really warm too. Surfs been awful, no surf hereWhen it rains like it has down here recently, I assume the PNW is close to Noah’s Ark territory.
What I surfed on Tuesday. Told you it was good
Some more here: