North zone of the beach early afternoon today, light onshore wind but still clean, funky shallow wedges, chest-shoulderish high. More of the same from yesterday, a lot closed or burgered out, but the one’s that lined up a little were fun for a little turn, head dip, eat sh!t and get dragged across the sandbar.
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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
KH angled wind swell. Obviously not great but it hasn’t even been rideable for about a week, so I’ll take what I can get.
Forecast calling for stronger wind swell this weekend.
Forecast calling for stronger wind swell this weekend.
Should’ve ridden the insanity as a twin plus trailer. Heard that goes great
I sold mine. Oversized and heavy PU made it just kind of an odd one in the quiver even though I had some great sessions on it.
I need to head to the otherside of the dunes more often.
I often do a driveby from the zoo to Sloat for a check in on my way home to see if it's worth considering.
On the days it's possible, it's often not worth it on my side.
Plasmic. It's my go-to for the small stuff. It gravels well for me.
I think it may be the best of the many kinda cheaterish alty SBs that I've tried.
Damn, now you have piqued my interest on the Insanity. I've been looking for a new shortboar. What do you think the range is? Stomach to Head high +? Twin/trailer for the small stuff quad/thruster for the bigger
I'd probably be looking at a custom 5'9 slimmed and thinned to about 27-28L
Yeah, that’s about right.
surprisingly good sesh at a reef down south, that I haven’t surfed since last winter, after finishing up early at a new job site in the area. Long racy CH frontside waves.
Only 3 guys and a girl out. One guy ripping on a Varial carbon twinnie (non album)- with no leash. Thing looked tiny. I almost thought it was a foil board.
Based on yesterday, I expected it was gonna be weak so I brought 6’4 eggy twin. Wish I had something rippier / fishier but it was damn fun going fast and wrapping big carves. Beautiful day, 2 mil full.
surprisingly good sesh at a reef down south, that I haven’t surfed since last winter, after finishing up early at a new job site in the area. Long racy CH frontside waves.
Only 3 guys and a girl out. One guy ripping on a Varial carbon twinnie (non album)- with no leash. Thing looked tiny. I almost thought it was a foil board.
Based on yesterday, I expected it was gonna be weak so I brought 6’4 eggy twin. Wish I had something rippier / fishier but it was damn fun going fast and wrapping big carves. Beautiful day, 2 mil full.
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I headed north to the Reforest/Casa zone for some south swell. Saw Felipe changing in the parking lot. I'm not used to seeing all these pros around. Lotta QS-level rippers out too. Chose the least crowded zone. Had to be selective with the 1:1 closeout to shreddable wall ratio.
Found some fun ones. Plasmic let me surf the nicely running in-betweeners. First surf with the Son of Cobra fins, and holy sh!t do they go in this board. Totally unlocked the Plasmic magic. Faster and looser than previous fins with the perfect balance of control and release. Will not be taking these out.
Found some fun ones. Plasmic let me surf the nicely running in-betweeners. First surf with the Son of Cobra fins, and holy sh!t do they go in this board. Totally unlocked the Plasmic magic. Faster and looser than previous fins with the perfect balance of control and release. Will not be taking these out.
Pretty fun session at a south wind spot. The evning was windy and gloomy but the waves were clean. There was one other guy checking it when I arrived. Some solid looking sets showing. I tried to get him to paddle with me but he lost his nerve so I paddled alone on the 6-6 stamps. It wasnt as big as it looked from the cliff so it ended up being a pretty chill session by myself. Not many great turn sections but some exciting drops and race track runners through the shallow end bowl. Ran JJF M anf they felt a littlw small but otherwise the board felt good as always.
I ran those for a couple of years. My second fav in this board. Those two have the same cant.
Any other fin I've put in the board just tightens it up too much -- feels like the fins are at cross purposes with the channels.
tuesday i had a mid morning window and waves were clean and better than expected, the early morning crowd was clearing out and I got some waves right off the bat, then a 20 minute lull kind of killed the enthusiasm, got a few more before I had to head back to the factory. yesterday leaving work early afternoon the ocean looked clean, I decided to try an out of the way spot and damn was it fun, surprised me with the size of the sets, got some really long lefts, felt like two swells in the water, surfed almost 3 hours, surfed as well as I can these days, came home happy and sat in the jacuzzi for an hour. little sore today. 5'9 Kenson pleasure pig is 10 years old and still going strong, no dents nothing. bullet proof.
Surfed Monday morning. Some swell in the water with the outer bar and reforming on the inner. Peaks were random and all over the place long lulls. Tried the andrieni 7’10 to hunt the outer bars. Always in the wrong place nobody else trying to help line up. Switched to the inner bar backwash and rips coming up the face made it impossible to get in early. That board trying to take off late with a dredging wave no worky.
Close outs and donuts.
today many more a-frames with some solid sets. Paddle out was a bitch. rode the 6’7 parmy. Meaty walls frontside and back. Really fun
Close outs and donuts.
today many more a-frames with some solid sets. Paddle out was a bitch. rode the 6’7 parmy. Meaty walls frontside and back. Really fun
Cooking and practically empty at a normally crowded beachbreak between O'side and La Jolla this morning...
Period running around 16-17 seconds, crazy for a beachbreak, especially this one, which is normally completely closed out with this size and period.
Surfed from 0930 to 1230 and most of that was with a single person within 100 feet of me. Did not jockey for a wave the entire morning.
As the morning wore on the wind continued to back off...superfast race tracks, rights and lefts, with moments for turns, chest to OH range.
A guy paddled up to me at one point... "WTF? Where is everybody?"
Sand must just be magic for this swell makeup right now. Most waves top to bottom on the takeoff (no major tube opportunities though) but then just turning into speedy, steep, makeable walls pausing for the occasional turn. Very long rides.
Lots of energy, loooooong pulses. Counted 18 waves in a set a 12 in another. I'd be paddling over the top of one and hop up a bit to see out the back and the horizon would just be stacked.
Quite the wakeup for the southern hemisphere.
Period running around 16-17 seconds, crazy for a beachbreak, especially this one, which is normally completely closed out with this size and period.
Surfed from 0930 to 1230 and most of that was with a single person within 100 feet of me. Did not jockey for a wave the entire morning.
As the morning wore on the wind continued to back off...superfast race tracks, rights and lefts, with moments for turns, chest to OH range.
A guy paddled up to me at one point... "WTF? Where is everybody?"
Sand must just be magic for this swell makeup right now. Most waves top to bottom on the takeoff (no major tube opportunities though) but then just turning into speedy, steep, makeable walls pausing for the occasional turn. Very long rides.
Lots of energy, loooooong pulses. Counted 18 waves in a set a 12 in another. I'd be paddling over the top of one and hop up a bit to see out the back and the horizon would just be stacked.
Quite the wakeup for the southern hemisphere.
really bummed that you didn't post a surf vlog review of it, and asked us to like & subscribe.
Another fun afternoon. Bigger rippable frontside walls at a local reef low tide. Plenty of waves coming through. 6’0 insanity quad. Lots of duck diving but got a couple gems. Warm and sunny, wind stayed down too. Stocked.