First surf this week after getting great waves all last week, nothing special but my favorite little reef had a minor crowd and I was able to sit outside and pick the set waves, went from glassy to slightly textured but not too windy. kenson 5'9 quad was the right board for the day. Let's go Aztecs...
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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
total ah ha moment on the bonzer egg today. Holy section making warp speed!!! loving this board and the points around here
15-20mph side/onshore N winds made for some super fun, chunky, CH left wedges down the street. Surfed late morning on the incoming tide and walked about 10 blocks before paddling out. Ended up drifting about 20 blocks in 1.5 hrs. No one out. Rode the Bullet with MR 2+1 and had a blast.
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Queen laps on the bonzer egg
Felt it would navigate the wind best
it was a good call. The fucking gas pedal you can hit off the bottom is addictive
I think I need even more bonzers in the quiver
Felt it would navigate the wind best
it was a good call. The fucking gas pedal you can hit off the bottom is addictive
I think I need even more bonzers in the quiver
Such a good call. If you live near a decent point break you need a bonzer egg in your life.
Been missing the surf this week.
But it worked out for me with some back country skiing.
But it worked out for me with some back country skiing.
Rode my CC Ocean Racer at a nearby point today.
Post storm session at a spot down the way from my local. Kind of big outside sluffers that would reform and occasionally peel pretty enjoyably along an inside bar. Some exciting drops and a few clean faces. Not many proper turn sections but still fun. Rode the 6'3" SMTH thruster. Felt a little undergunned but it was mostly just the current and the big playing field. Just me and a buddy for a couple hours. Good to surf after days of heavy rain and winds.
Absolutely scored this morning. Brown barrels , long runners. Fuck yeassss.
Now I am going to douche myself in peroxide hahahah
Now I am going to douche myself in peroxide hahahah
sh!t winds in morning
switched offshore afternoon
had to drive 3 spots further than usual, but got a few good ones
it was tricky though
peaks everywhere and hittin at almost a 45 degree swell angle
most waves were flat shoulders
switched offshore afternoon
had to drive 3 spots further than usual, but got a few good ones
it was tricky though
peaks everywhere and hittin at almost a 45 degree swell angle
most waves were flat shoulders
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Road tripped shark central. No sharks positively confirmed but some splashes along with some very fun ones when you got the peak and wall to line up.
Meanwhile, down in South Brevard, a buddy decided to surf a more crowded spot after checking this one:
Meanwhile, down in South Brevard, a buddy decided to surf a more crowded spot after checking this one:
The queen was uncrowded this afternoon. Like Victory at Sea though. Still got a couple of fun ones.
Shitty wind slop in NorCal, still some corners to be had. ran into a fellow old gaucho who I recognized and exchanged numbers - new surfing buddy acquired
Few waves in this morning before the Easter nonsense.
still some to be had out there but it’s going to start blowing like a crack whore when she needs a fix soon.
still some to be had out there but it’s going to start blowing like a crack whore when she needs a fix soon.
Some of the best surf I think I've ever seen around these parts the past two days. Howling offshores FTW.
Low expectations make for the best sessions.
Missed the morning window. Sleepless night. Thought I had completely missed my opportunity to surf, so I tackled some chores around the house and kept the afternoon free for a paddle. Hopped in the water on my poorman's paddleboard (a 6'1" Stamps GX) without seeing anything, thinking I'd just paddle from one spot to the next. Kinda textured and shitty at the jump off spot. Paddled 15 minutes down the way to another spot and low and behold it was pretty rippable, and the crowd was light. Got about 45 minutes of a light crowd, and once it started to clog up, I was out. Happy as can be.
Missed the morning window. Sleepless night. Thought I had completely missed my opportunity to surf, so I tackled some chores around the house and kept the afternoon free for a paddle. Hopped in the water on my poorman's paddleboard (a 6'1" Stamps GX) without seeing anything, thinking I'd just paddle from one spot to the next. Kinda textured and shitty at the jump off spot. Paddled 15 minutes down the way to another spot and low and behold it was pretty rippable, and the crowd was light. Got about 45 minutes of a light crowd, and once it started to clog up, I was out. Happy as can be.
Quick sesh late morning just before the wind fully turned. Paddled out at VFWs, got halfway out and realized the outer bar waves were just burgering into nothing after a second or two so I paddled north a little to try and sit on an inner bar wedge. Took a while of waiting and paddling to get in position, some were slabby and heavy. Notable waves were a right that stayed open enough for a turn and then bank off the closeout foam, and a left that I wimped out on pulling in backside on the slabby closeout.
Surfed the dropping tide this morning. Bigger than I assessed from looking w/ some punchy wedges.
Rode the fuse 5’10 first time in a while. Boar is like a sticky skateboard goes wherever you want with confidence. Would have been fun in a close out trying to find a section to hit way if I didn’t get stuck inside for 10 minutes of thumps half the time.
no complaints after not surfing 2 weeks.
Rode the fuse 5’10 first time in a while. Boar is like a sticky skateboard goes wherever you want with confidence. Would have been fun in a close out trying to find a section to hit way if I didn’t get stuck inside for 10 minutes of thumps half the time.
no complaints after not surfing 2 weeks.