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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***

sh3

sh3

Michael Peterson status
Dec 1, 2008
2,524
3,369
113
Got two fun hours in micro-conditions with the giant green machine. My 9'4" Wayne-O log that is insane. Wifey was on the Takayama and even my daughter, back from school for the week, joined in. Great family fun in the beautiful sunshine.

Two bro-brahs tried separately to back paddle me on the few set waves that came in. Nope, not going to let that happen. I think one of them was kind of mind-blown I wouldn't let him paddle past me. Hahahah! If there's one thing I know how to do, it's paddle. Got some fun screamers - came back on one and a cool guy in the line-up said, "you almost rode that one to Ventura." Good crew of not too many people, and the back paddlers stopped trying to back paddle, except...

A friend's kid who was out there. He thought he was too cool for school. He was bellying in the foam on one and wifey took off without seeing him bellying it. She rode it all the way through. As she was paddling back out, he apparently yelled at her 'Don't drop in on people!' I missed it, but I would have read his little @$$ the riot act. She was bummed and confused since she didn't even see him. I missed the yell until she told me afterwards. This kid's dad is super cool and someone I consider a friend, and a pretty great person, so this surprised me. Kid trying to ride on the laurels of his father and grandfather - we were all young once, but you gotta earn respect.

That said, still got some great waves and had a ball for a few hours in the sunshine.
 
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B

b.r.

Phil Edwards status
Dec 19, 2003
5,939
3,075
113
Leucadia
www.youtube.com
a little bigger yesterday than wednesday, paddled out at the same spot as the day before and got a banger left right off the bat underneath my two friends who were already out, then as I almost got back outside another one dredged up and swung wide and the outside guys missed it and I late dropped, the kind where you almost fall but its backside and I landed in the perfect stance to race down the line, halfway through the wave I switched stance and hit the closeout section at the end. great start to the session. Later I tried to tag a big closeout section on a right and airdropped into oblivion and got worked, my friend inside was laughing, said how are your knees after that, I said fine, but my back got compressed, felt a little stiff after that, next set, my leash string broke, had a nice swim in (leash string was in embarrasingly bad shape years old). hid the broken leash with my key in it on the beach and surfed for another hour but was a little more careful, been a very nice run of waves. .
 
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oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,022
17,488
113
San Diego, CA
b.r. said:
a little bigger yesterday than wednesday, paddled out at the same spot as the day before and got a banger left right off the bat underneath my two friends who were already out, then as I almost got back outside another one dredged up and swung wide and the outside guys missed it and I late dropped, the kind where you almost fall but its backside and I landed in the perfect stance to race down the line, halfway through the wave I switched stance and hit the closeout section at the end. great start to the session. Later I tried to tag a big closeout section on a right and airdropped into oblivion and got worked, my friend inside was laughing, said how are your knees after that, I said fine, but my back got compressed, felt a little stiff after that, next set, my leash string broke, had a nice swim in (leash string was in embarrasingly bad shape years old). hid the broken leash with my key in it on the beach and surfed for another hour but was a little more careful, been a very nice run of waves. .
Click to expand...
:shameonyou:

Leash strings

We have all sorts of stupid surf related threads but this one may take the cake! realized when I sell a board, I always check the leash string and sometimes swap it out if it’s one of those branded ones that come with traction pads. If it’s just regular paracord, it stays on the board for the...
forum.surfer.com forum.surfer.com
 
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slipped_disc

slipped_disc

Billy Hamilton status
Jun 27, 2019
1,628
2,454
113
Two fun mornings in a row. Mix of two swells in the water. Slightly overhead. Waves were a mixture of bowling sections and fatter walls. Good amount of paddling. Friendly crew both days. Makes me want to surf this normally-shitty spot more often.

Was riding the GX again. Neutral fins. Though days like this probably would have been great for a more raked template.
 
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ReForest

ReForest

Michael Peterson status
Oct 7, 2020
3,258
4,789
113
I had the privilege of running into at @bluengreen today. Tall and handsome fella! Lol. Seeing his plasmic with the sons of cobra fins made me want to try one. :love: I think the plasmic looks more my style than the twinsman.

Waves were pretty fun. Long waits in between the sets and the little insiders weren’t really working like they were yesterday. Water seems to be warming up a little bit. Fun little session on the Vader V2. Good start to a Friday morning.
 
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oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,022
17,488
113
San Diego, CA
just time for a quickie this morning after tide peaked. Some fun wedgy peaks at reef2 with 3 guys out. Tried to pull in on the second section and got clipped on my back shoulder. 6’1 quad felt great on the open face.
It was starting to get good but I had to go. Only got like 4-5 waves in 30min but it was fun. Crowd started to fill in as I was heading in.
 
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sh3

sh3

Michael Peterson status
Dec 1, 2008
2,524
3,369
113
I surfed Mondo's Surf Spot in Ventura County today. You all should make an effort to surf there. It was overhead, clean, glassy, with A-Frames spitting both left and right. I surfed it on a very short high performance surfboard. For 3 plus hours. And the water was 78 degrees.
 
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oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,022
17,488
113
San Diego, CA
Had to wait for the tide to start dropping, but unfortunately wind came up before I could get out. Only 3 of us out at a local reef tells you how mediocre it was. Fell on the bumpy face my first 3 waves. Got 2 more chunky mogul-y wedges and called it a day.
 
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G

Goofy_Footed

Nep status
Jul 31, 2016
620
1,475
93
Probably as good as it gets at the C grade spot behind my house today. Stomach-head high, consistent, blue skies, 10-15mph offshore wind, 80 degree air, 65 degree water, very few people out, everyone spread out. Surfed for 3 hours and didn’t have to concede one wave. About to order some Thai food and crack a few beers to celebrate one hell of a day.
 
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S

Sharkbiscuit

Duke status
Aug 6, 2003
26,709
19,652
113
Jacksonville Beach
Goofy_Footed said:
Probably as good as it gets at the C grade spot behind my house today. Stomach-head high, consistent, blue skies, 10-15mph offshore wind, 80 degree air, 65 degree water, very few people out, everyone spread out. Surfed for 3 hours and didn’t have to concede one wave. About to order some Thai food and crack a few beers to celebrate one hell of a day.
Click to expand...
Yeah THE day of the spring. I surfed until I could barely move AND the tide was flooding it. 4 drifts from where the houses end and the park starts up to Dolphin. Went home and watched the Pier cam with like 6 guys in frame. I saw a perfect head high 4 wave set roll through. Lines out the back, forming up coming past the first pilings, bowl with tapered wall, peeled to the pilings North/out of frame South, nan ho. Not nan one ridden. Nobody even close to them, front and center 10 items or less peak. Basically Lynyrd Trestles. And that was just the largest/most perfect set with zero people. There were peak-fed unridden runners with ender features galore all over the place.

First bottom turn of the day, the lack of finesse needed and change of momentum feeling was like deep scratching a three month ballsack itch.
 
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