*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***

[flyinraptr]

What's the coldest the water gets there?

The coldest is probably mid-seventies. But keep in mind normal temps are around 82 - 85 deg .... so your body gets acclimated and then you throw in the wind chill factor you're talking about maybe a 20 degree difference in temperature ... its all relative.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Yeah I was just curious how cold it got. Hotter than balls when I was there

 

[santacruzin]

glassy tiny perfect peelers!! rode my big old board and got my soul bro on!!

haha great time

 

[tacos]

Super nice looking conditions around 4 pm last night, felt like a late September day with the heat and offshores. Beach roads/lots were packed, felt more like HB during the US Open than SF. Despite how nice it looked, I didn’t really luck into any good ones. Most either mushed out to sea or were an unmakeable wall, with a strong southbound current to boot. Hadn’t surfed in a couple week so felt good to get out, but still nursing a tweaked back and was hard to extend my legs/body to pump.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

My buddy had a funny quote today referencing a wave hog local:

1 wave sets are nice when you're always up

 

[stringcheese]

Head high double up shorebreak, going square in knee deep water. The only waves i could find anywhere around that weren’t mushy, weird swell.
you try riding a 6’ mini simmons twin fin in that and see how you go. Stuck some fun drops i had no business making. Made a boogie boarder’s life flash before his eyes.

at this point it’s a game. How many surfs, in how terribly inappropriate waves, with no repairs, before this board breaks?!

 

[b.r.]

Usually skip Saturday mornings but a friend called and said lets go, ended up at a spot that had minimal people around and super fun peaks, surfed for two hours on the 5 10 Kenson pleasure pig and got some good turns, floaters, and my first 360 of the year. Fun waves all week.

 

[oeste858]

Sat sunset sesh. Small WH wonky backwashy wedges on the inside reef. 15 dudes out but spread out so I found my spot where sets would swing wide and also darted in/out of the inside to pick off some runners into the shorebreak. Insanity with twin + training wheel went great, given the conditions.

 

[tedshred5]

Been outta the water for about a month with a hand injury. Finally figured out a secure way to tape it up, and paddled out this AM at an uncrowded beachbreak on a peak that doubled up from takeoff into a mushy section. Took the new Flare out - FSF! - board handled the drop well and felt really drivey as a quad through the mush. Setup Pyzel larges with blackstix 4.0 rears

 

[sh3]

There's no surf here.

Took the dog for a walk on the beach. Sun was out.

F we are all lucky to live in close proximity to the oceans. ALL OF US. Love this ocean life.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

There's no surf here.

Took the dog for a walk on the beach. Sun was out.

F we are all lucky to live in close proximity to the oceans. ALL OF US. Love this ocean life.

Yep. Fished today locally and it was gorgeous. Love it here!

 

[Duffy LaCoronilla]

There's no surf here.

Took the dog for a walk on the beach. Sun was out.

F we are all lucky to live in close proximity to the oceans. ALL OF US. Love this ocean life.

Rode the 11’0 this morning locally. Super sketchy, shallow, rocky. Hit bottom and ground up my brand new 7 inch Greenough 4A. fin was too small anyway. I found the smallest usable size for that board - 7 3/4.

Gonna go the other way now with a 9 inch L-Flex.

Fuck that board is hard to ride.

Waves were absolute crap.

Came home and made chicken mole from scratch. I was at Chapala market when you texted me earlier.

 

[santacruzin]

There's no surf here.

Took the dog for a walk on the beach. Sun was out.

F we are all lucky to live in close proximity to the oceans. ALL OF US. Love this ocean life.

There were waves yesterday

 

[Bob Dobbalina]

Super nice looking conditions around 4 pm last night, felt like a late September day with the heat and offshores. Beach roads/lots were packed, felt more like HB during the US Open than SF. Despite how nice it looked, I didn’t really luck into any good ones. Most either mushed out to sea or were an unmakeable wall, with a strong southbound current to boot. Hadn’t surfed in a couple week so felt good to get out, but still nursing a tweaked back and was hard to extend my legs/body to pump.

Beautiful weekend.
Friday looked heavy with some rewards.
I was dragging my kids around in the shorebreak.

 

[One-Off]

Milking the microwaves this AM.

Fun bar and perfect weather.

 

[oeste858]

just some warbly peaks but better than expected. Bit of a crowd, got hectic at times but there were just enough peaks coming through for most of us. Found a few WH waves that snuck through: some fizzled out quickly, a couple looked like they would close out but stood up and ran, most had a serious dead spot between outside and inside. Some fun sections to smack. Was warm, glassy and sunny then after an hour, got overcast and breezy onshore. Refreshed 5'9 Gremlin (new pad and wax) felt good for most of it, but I struggled once the wind came up and flattened the waves out. Shoulda taken my last decent one in but hung around for one more that took forever as it got more crowded and the waves slowed. My shoulders were also sore from weekend activities. Was warm in 2 mil

 

[tacos]

Quick sesh around noon today, same zone as Friday.
Pretty fun dumpy double ups. Couple wiggles, found a nice little head dip on one, and also pearled and ate sh!t in the shallows on a double up to keep it interesting. Still babying my back which for some reason made me feel slow to my feet when going backside only. Milked one a little too far in and didn’t feel like paddling back out and called it there.

 

[Aruka]

Had a few fun sessions in the past week or so. One riding the 9-6 Stretch LB at my local. Finally got some side bites for the board and it felt good, a little more straight line speed I think. I was having a lot of fun taking off deep and trimming along some runners on a nice, sunny day.

Today a good friend and I surfed a left reef that improved as the fresh, long interval swell filled in and the tide dropped. Fairly glassy and nice push to the swell, despite being only head high or so. Some long rides to be had and no one else ever showed up which was nice.

 

[santacruzin]

Couple micro nuggets today. Was windy but a few fun corners.

 

[claw87]

Postcards from the maldives....board is a pyzalien 2, set up as quad (has been swapped for a wills fish since). Had some really fun surfs last week. Couldn't really surf my brains out unfortunately as I had a tonsillitis and was on antibiotics. Tonsillitis no.4 this winter, got to have the fuckers removed....now that I'm better the waves have gone knee to waist high. But the wills fish is keeping stoke levels high, such a fun ride.