Pumping and semi-clean today. Is this the swell before the swell?
Pretty big sets rolling through about every 15-20m. Reefs are all going, with deeper ones holding the swell much better as usual. But it's not overly big, so the smaller sets draw you in and then you get mowed down when you stay further inside for too long. Hardly anyone out as usual.
I'm really starting to feel my age this year. Lower back and arms. And my big toe nail came off. That's what I get for never wearing booties.
Pretty big sets rolling through about every 15-20m. Reefs are all going, with deeper ones holding the swell much better as usual. But it's not overly big, so the smaller sets draw you in and then you get mowed down when you stay further inside for too long. Hardly anyone out as usual.
I'm really starting to feel my age this year. Lower back and arms. And my big toe nail came off. That's what I get for never wearing booties.