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*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter vanrysss
- Start date
So far it’s epic. I’ve had a bit of a tweaked lower back since I got it, but the thing catches waves incredibly well and you can either pump and whip it or just stand there and trim across either mushy or punchy waves. I’m going to surf it a lot.
P is doing great. Cheers!I miss that dude! How is ol' obslop?
after the worst year in history it sure is nice to see winter start to kick into gear
Plenty of waves this weekend, plenty of people getting them. I wasn't one of them.
Tried to surf Friday afternoon.
I was too hyped. Too many expectations. to tired from lack of sleep and battling illness. None realistic.
Off early, looked at it on the way home from work, offshore, tide dropping FAST.
Should've paddled out further South and had it to my self. Instead, I tapped in with a buddy at the end of our street and eyeballed the end of the most popular bar in town.
I had a shortboard in the car and did not want to go home and swap out boards. I didn't NEED a bigger board, but it would've helped.
Paddled out, got sucked 2 blocks off the peak, way outside and on the other side of the rip.
Spent all my energy trying to get back in and up the beach.
When waves came, they were mostly popping up, then flattening out, then running. Not friendly to a shortboard.
Then when I was in position, some dude on a 9ft edge board long armed into it from 15 yards farther out.
Got one wave, took the next one in.
Waves were pumping all weekend.
Stuck working Saturday.
Sunday had to give mama a kid break.
FML
Tried to surf Friday afternoon.
I was too hyped. Too many expectations. to tired from lack of sleep and battling illness. None realistic.
Off early, looked at it on the way home from work, offshore, tide dropping FAST.
Should've paddled out further South and had it to my self. Instead, I tapped in with a buddy at the end of our street and eyeballed the end of the most popular bar in town.
I had a shortboard in the car and did not want to go home and swap out boards. I didn't NEED a bigger board, but it would've helped.
Paddled out, got sucked 2 blocks off the peak, way outside and on the other side of the rip.
Spent all my energy trying to get back in and up the beach.
When waves came, they were mostly popping up, then flattening out, then running. Not friendly to a shortboard.
Then when I was in position, some dude on a 9ft edge board long armed into it from 15 yards farther out.
Got one wave, took the next one in.
Waves were pumping all weekend.
Stuck working Saturday.
Sunday had to give mama a kid break.
FML
@Bob Dobbalina If it’s any consolation, Saturday was kind of a sh!t show. I surfed the Lincoln — Chateau zone along with hundreds of other duus with every shade of recreational surfer. From dudes who couldn’t even get to their feet to Keoni and Paul the hair dresser who were by far the best dudes out. Eve they seemed to be struggling to pick out the good ones with the crowd the way it was. Lots of duds.
It's OK - I'm not too butthurt about it. I put in a 20 mile trail run in the afternoon/evening before and IT band on my left knee was angry the next morning. Although honestly probably would have motivated if it wasn't raining.It looked pretty sick on the drive by on my way home.
Sorry
It's fucked up - I'm getting very good very quickly at running since I picked it up a couple years ago and I hate that surfing is getting the cold shoulder right now. Not the first time though - when I get a hold of something intriguing, I ride that sh!t into the ground and then surfing is right back there for me. At least my shoulders are well rested.
def been a lot of moments the past week or two. this weekend wasnt one of them. looked better than it was. maybe a window sunday afternoon but i'd already pulled the plug on it by then
Fun-size runners as the tide filled in. A couple friends out in the lineup, and the crowd of about 8 was sharing nicely. Pretty stocked to get a ton of waves, some long ones with 6-7 fs turns in. Sun came out and I was toasty in a 2mil. One of my better sessions in a while. Stayed out a full hour!
Love my 7'11" that SM made for himself but I got.
I had to park my car further away from the trail to my local spot than I’ve ever had in almost 50 years. I had very low expectations for the session. But the waves were so good, solid overhead sets and half the crowd probably never surf there but are coming because the South Bay beaches suck so bad right now. The 7-6 twinzer was in its perfect element.
The Middleman is done. Finally.
It took so long mostly because of the unreliability of surfer labor. Always taking time off to surf. So annoying.
Cold wet weather didn't help either. I'm hoping there are still a few DOH days before this winter fades into a happy memory...it's been soooo good.
7'-6" x 21" x 2-3/4". 13-1/2" nose. 14-1/4" tail. 4-3/4 nose rocker. 2-1/4" tail rocker. Single concave. Fades to flat between feet, with vee starting behind feet. Fairly pronounced vee after fins. Very slight concave (1/16") in the vee panels.
This time I softened the hard edges ever so slightly starting about 8" in front of the fins.
Wide point 2" above center to keep foam under chest, but nose pulls in pretty quickly so hopefully it can still duck dive fairly easily. Tails pulls in to baby swallow (5") to get that curve around the back foot.
For twinzer doctors- mains at 8-1/2" 5 degrees cant 1/8" toe, canards, no overlap, 1-1/4" slot, 8 degrees cant. I decided to forget about the center box for the widow maker set up after surfing consecutive days on the 7-4 2+1 and then the 8-3 twinzer and the 8-3 twinzer felt looser and faster.
This board is not meant to trim. It is meant to turn hard in HH to DOH fat California reef breaks.
8.5 pounds. Not light but not too heavy given that it will last 15+ years, at least. Eco friendly for that reason only (surfboard are not eco friendly)_.
Oh, I had an old nautical chart of the Santa Monica Bay lying around and because the land features seemed the same brown color as the wood I decided to use that to fill the voids in the veneer. After I did it the white seemed to shocking so I decided to put the white pin stripes on to balance that a bit.
Note to amateur builders- don't skimp on pin striping tape. Use the expensive green stuff. I tried 1/4' regular masking and it bled everywhere and I had to sand them off and do them over. Pinstriping is hard. Avoid if at all possible.
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Almost as good as yesterday pretty similar, overall still pretty stocked
Two small but really fun point surfs yesterday with zero crowd. Fast runners with good lips to bash.
Today was special. Fading long period swell, so not many waves but so good when they came, and it was warm and glassy. Surfed Outsides and waited patiently for my last wave; got a solid OH beauty than ran through the next point for a good 500m (just measured on gmaps).
Today was special. Fading long period swell, so not many waves but so good when they came, and it was warm and glassy. Surfed Outsides and waited patiently for my last wave; got a solid OH beauty than ran through the next point for a good 500m (just measured on gmaps).