Fun left beachies this morning on the townsend. Trying to keep it cruisy but couldnt help but carve a couple begging sections. Super fun. Short arm 2 mil felt perfect. No sign of new swell yet, maybe tonight it will fill in.
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*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter vanrysss
- Start date
Second session. A rare bird score. no where near as big as everywhere else only OH + 
worth the effort. love hearing eveyones war stories , sound like it was more break than make today for a lot of people.
worth the effort. love hearing eveyones war stories , sound like it was more break than make today for a lot of people.
Glad some of you are charging / scoring. Get your fill cause I come back from Xmas in Pennsylvania this weekend. So surely swell will be down by Sunday.
Surfed 3 times today. The queen. Second session was the best. Had a good window and did 6 cove laps in a row
that may be a record and I was almost puking after the last one I was so beat tired.
went and rested then paddled out again, it was getting textured and everyone was on it. Lucked into a nug a guy fell on and called it a day.
hope everyone scored and was safe today
that may be a record and I was almost puking after the last one I was so beat tired.
went and rested then paddled out again, it was getting textured and everyone was on it. Lucked into a nug a guy fell on and called it a day.
hope everyone scored and was safe today
My local has been crazy crowded the past week. The past two days not so much.
I looked today and there were only two guys out and one guy paddled IN to the lineup from a boat. The other was a kid on a chip and he looked scared. Nevef saw him catch a wave. There looked like lulls so I decided to have a go. I made it out almost hair dry.
But there were big sneaker sets. Typical on a big swell with a deep water wave.
The first wave of the set was always the best. But then there were 3-4 bigger ones behind. On one, the first wave looked good. I could see a big dark line behind but I decided to go. Better catch this wave. I caught it but when I kicked out I still caught the set on the head. It was my only long hold down.
I looked today and there were only two guys out and one guy paddled IN to the lineup from a boat. The other was a kid on a chip and he looked scared. Nevef saw him catch a wave. There looked like lulls so I decided to have a go. I made it out almost hair dry.
But there were big sneaker sets. Typical on a big swell with a deep water wave.The first wave of the set was always the best. But then there were 3-4 bigger ones behind. On one, the first wave looked good. I could see a big dark line behind but I decided to go. Better catch this wave. I caught it but when I kicked out I still caught the set on the head. It was my only long hold down.
Double sesh in overhead point waves. Rode the townsend w/ rasta twins both sessions which felt great. Morning tide was higher than ideal but the swell was pumping and there were some nuggy bowls to be had. Evening sesh was slower like the swell had peaked but there were still some good ones when they came. Super drained out and the tweeners were sketchy and shallow over the lava reef. Hit the bottom a couple times and ollied a lobster buoy. Dinged my board somehow and cut my foot. Still pretty fun.
yesterday when the tide was right , the wind was wrong. ton of bs duckdives for some mediocre shoulders. sets almost 100% closeouts at a reef. not worth it
today at proper tide wind was ok. glassy and slightly smaller. tons of bs duckdives, for some pretty good, pretty fast waves with proper lips to hit. sets only 80% closeouts at a reef. worth it.
today at proper tide wind was ok. glassy and slightly smaller. tons of bs duckdives, for some pretty good, pretty fast waves with proper lips to hit. sets only 80% closeouts at a reef. worth it.
I went back down to the south wind spot. Just a few guys out with diamond-in-the-rough conditions. I was expecting a little more size given the buoys and other spots nearby, but it was only a touch overhead. Perfect for the 6’1” stamps. At any rate, all it took was one good feeling turn to make my session. The water quality was dubious so I was happy to peel out after 45 minutes or so. Back at home now, inhaling some steam and blasting out my sinuses which have been all jammed up.
surfed the most crowded spot around. got a few. enough. a few turns felt good. it was way faster/more powerful than i expected it to be. worth it.
My 2023 surf journal. Didn't shoot as much this year but was rewarded every time I got the camera out. Lucky to have a super talented crew of surfers to shoot.
Windy and drained out point surf this evening. First half of the session was very slow and lulled out. Everyone was wanting to paddle under eachother and work too deep so i played along for a bit and then snuck back down to the good corner and got some great wide ones. Really fun shortboard waves. Chest to head high with perfect trannies and a little crumble to turn off of. Bomdia felt great as always. Probably could use some flexier fins for smaller waves.
Went on an adventure yesterday got up two hours before sunrise
spot 1 was well OH rights. A gnarly muddy hike to score 6-10 rights with fun fast drops and big turns on big sections .
‘surfed my black beauty. did lots of arm waving ugly surfing. Not many people around.
second session . anohter full mission spot. small friendly crew on it. big shifty peaks , lots of water moving round. some major beatings handed out with moments of glory. Paddle mission to get in was not fun! Surfed a 6’7 semi gun and could have used more board!
third session . Large OH ppointbreak. Giant walls that required a big board to surf effectively . a super user friendly spot event at size, a welcome fun session,.
surfed a 7’ beamish channel bottom twin and embraced my inner hipster.
fuck! The thing was so fun. swooping around and making sections with ease.
off for another mission today.
spot 1 was well OH rights. A gnarly muddy hike to score 6-10 rights with fun fast drops and big turns on big sections .
‘surfed my black beauty. did lots of arm waving ugly surfing. Not many people around.
second session . anohter full mission spot. small friendly crew on it. big shifty peaks , lots of water moving round. some major beatings handed out with moments of glory. Paddle mission to get in was not fun! Surfed a 6’7 semi gun and could have used more board!
third session . Large OH ppointbreak. Giant walls that required a big board to surf effectively . a super user friendly spot event at size, a welcome fun session,.
surfed a 7’ beamish channel bottom twin and embraced my inner hipster.
fuck! The thing was so fun. swooping around and making sections with ease.
off for another mission today.
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friends board, just asked him to snap a few and send to me. it was 7’2 x 20 ish x 3”Any pics of that Beamish twin?
Futures RFC twins I think?
non erbb approved leash string. Which I had to fix for him.
@oeste858 here ya go
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Morning sesssion was ok, south wind and dying swell. Still some diamonds in the rough out there.
My body is tired
My body is tired
Actual nice photos! There are some who try to do surf photos here and their collection of out of focus, apey surfing in bad light is marvelous
Thanks!Actual nice photos! There are some who try to do surf photos here and their collection of out of focus, apey surfing in bad light is marvelous
I've dabbled with surf photography since the late 80s when I would sneak my dad's Minolta XD-11 and 300mm lens out of the house. I'm shooting with older gear bought used but I've put a lot of time into learning it.
Everybody is suddenly a surf photographer these days. There are a couple of photographers in NJ who have gear I could only dream about but they don't know how to use it and have zero timing and sense of what makes a good surf photo and they post these big galleries of terrible shots on Facebook.
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Happy New Year, retards!
On the east coast visiting family, and hit the rivermouth down in front. Perfect little bank but knee high max. Got some belly ride barrels.
On the east coast visiting family, and hit the rivermouth down in front. Perfect little bank but knee high max. Got some belly ride barrels.
Firing point waves with 25 of my best friends. Only a few of them could surf thankfully so I spent very little time waiting for waves. Long walls with plenty of push. Overhead on the sets but I'm not above taking a head high tweener if it has a good line to it. Absolute wave feast on the bomdia which is easily the mvp of 2023 for me.
Time for chicken grilling and beer drinking and not sleeping all night while listening to live ranchero music blaring from across the street.
Happy new years to all my design forum homies.
Time for chicken grilling and beer drinking and not sleeping all night while listening to live ranchero music blaring from across the street.
Happy new years to all my design forum homies.