*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***

[r32]

Pumping and semi-clean today. Is this the swell before the swell?

Pretty big sets rolling through about every 15-20m. Reefs are all going, with deeper ones holding the swell much better as usual. But it's not overly big, so the smaller sets draw you in and then you get mowed down when you stay further inside for too long. Hardly anyone out as usual.

I'm really starting to feel my age this year. Lower back and arms. And my big toe nail came off. That's what I get for never wearing booties.

 

[Goofy_Footed]

We’ve had a pretty good run of CH-HH+ since forever. The low tide sand bars behind the house have been working pretty well and the timing/winds have been cooperating. Crowds have been super light as well. I’m exhausted in a good way. It’s starting to taper off now, but should have 1-2 more days of decent surf and then it gets small and cold. Probably for the best because I’m not sure how much more my body can take.

 

[Maz]

4 days working and having big family group for Xmas and no surf. Snuck out this morning at tiny outer point, and it was totally worth it, even if very close to dry rock. Nobody around.

 

[santacruzin]

super fun surf at the crowded point , some surprisingly hollow nuggets, low tide got a little too hectic with the rock garden.


Next 4-6 days will be interesting, hope my shoulders are up to it

 

[Havoc]

4 days working and having big family group for Xmas and no surf. Snuck out this morning at tiny outer point, and it was totally worth it, even if very close to dry rock. Nobody around.

don't u get scurred of sharks there? seems like lots of gws in ur hood no?

 

[Oceanslide]

Had a bunch of fun sessions in the past week. New to me 6’6” Shadow will be a Swiss Army knife. New to me 9’5” CJ Neo Classic was great yesterday on a billion waves but need to figure out how to get my cheater 5 on without nose concave. Got an absolute NUG on my first wave today on the 7’2” Hyperglide. Best wave in a while than hauled arse for a loooong ways. Surf stoke level high!

 

[Maz]

don't u get scurred of sharks there? seems like lots of gws in ur hood no?

Never think of them at the points. At the big outside sand bar, yes

 

[Aruka]

Been surfing a lot of beach break/reef spots off the beaten path by myself. Get up early, watch the sunrise, surf while the offshores are blowing, hide out and read during the heat of the day and then surf or ride the bike in the afternoon depending on the winds. Mostly been riding the Bomdia but also been having fun on the longboard when its small or when my knee is feeling iffy.

At a popular point wave for these big swells. Hoping to get a session or two in but not super frothy on surfing in a crowd. Stoked to be in a house with internet and flush toilet though, oh boy!

 

[santacruzin]

Lots of surf boarding today. dawn patrolled one point and scored even with the high tide. had an obligation so headed home. On the drive home that got moved back so I decided to check another spot. It was super fun, long long walls. Fast sections and some hollow but no barrels.
Things were going great adn then I accidentally dropped in on a local pro , luckily he is a very nice young man and all was well.

missed my appointment and now I am going to paddle out for a 3rd session. Just debating where

 

[000]

yesterday was not bad, bit too hi tide, but kept most of the dorks away few overhead speed runs on the fat fish
today i waited til tide was 3.0. was better where the crowd was, but i like to surf alone, so i did. closeout sets mostly, some inbetweeners were properly shaped. mostly just crusing on fat fish. tomorrow should be way too closed out

 

[b.r.]

Dropping tide building swell. Got some great waves on the Kenson twinzer mid day. Took the first wave of the set twice which I very much regretted. Trying to arrange family outings for the next couple days so I don’t have to go to Todos, sloughs, blacks, or Swamis. #wussy

 

[need 4 speed]

Few West swell lines roping through, super glassy, light crowd

 

[JDJ]

Been surfing a lot of beach break/reef spots off the beaten path by myself. Get up early, watch the sunrise, surf while the offshores are blowing, hide out and read during the heat of the day and then surf or ride the bike in the afternoon depending on the winds. Mostly been riding the Bomdia but also been having fun on the longboard when its small or when my knee is feeling iffy.

At a popular point wave for these big swells. Hoping to get a session or two in but not super frothy on surfing in a crowd. Stoked to be in a house with internet and flush toilet though, oh boy!

Trip is well timed for pumping West swell!

 

[slipped_disc]

Super fun session in town on Christmas Day. Clean walls and a long period swell that has some push. Tons of people but plenty of waves too.

Today, I surfed the only game around with the south winds. Close to shore wedgy and backwash-y tubes. Got absolutely smoked on one that sucked out and pitched me down hard. Felt kinda good to get throttled though. Made it easier to go for anything that looked promising.

tomorrow’s gonna be interesting. Tons of swell and energy expected.

6’1” shorty on both days.

 

[r32]

Monster swell and giant washing machine conditions.

Awful looking with south winds and every beach is swamped.

Some ultra rare mysto spots are breaking today. The kind that only break on 20' @ 20" type swells. Nobody in the water.

 

[gbg]

Monster swell and giant washing machine conditions.

Awful looking with south winds and every beach is swamped.

Some ultra rare mysto spots are breaking today. The kind that only break on 20' @ 20" type swells. Nobody in the water.

I will be wine tasting at Hearst Ranch. Then Absolution Cellars. Paso tomorrow. Fuck all this giant death surf.

 

[nolibos]

Went to one of Marin's South facing beaches. 4-6+, stormy af, got a few nice big ones and got to ride a propper 6'0" at a spot that is usually a wretched hive of fun boarders, SUPs, and villany.

 

[mundus]

Surprisingly fun semi closed out sideshore surf about shoulder high.

 

[r32]

I will be wine tasting at Hearst Ranch. Then Absolution Cellars. Paso tomorrow. Fuck all this giant death surf.

Just watched a set roll through a deep water reef and it was huge. Biggest I've seen all year and breaking way outside on outer reef. Huge current and tons of water moving. Undertows are going to be filthy on the outgoing tide.

 

[santacruzin]

Scored at dawn . The queen was epic , then it got huge and I got out


went to a spot down the road, never seen it so big. multiple surf rescues already, one likely drowning at pierpont. So many kooks in over the head.