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*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter vanrysss
- Start date
Took a few days off at home caring for a family member, but yesterday got a mid morning at one of my favorite local reefs and it was kind of crowded as I paddled out at 1030, but a bunch of people went in and the top of the reef was dealing rights and lefts with some good juice. kenson 5'8 pleasure pig was working well and I got some really fun waves, the last 8 weeks have been really furn and I'm down 5lbs on the daily dale holiday weigh in, which can happen when the waves are good. 2 more days of work and then off for a few weeks. yeww.
Victory at sea - brown waist high scum with a nice layer of crusty foam. 
The big sandbar. 10min walk, 25min paddle, long waits. Worth it.
Absolutely knackered now.
Absolutely knackered now.
Only one dude hardcore enough for the sloppy chocolate deliciousness.
Small today, but clean point runners. Took the 8'0 Keogh out for the hell of it, and just went straight - not a single turn. Had a great session, and even got a little barrel.
I’ve been burnt out on fishes recently and craving my generic thruster. Conditions don’t always line up though… today however I found some bowly rights that made me fall in love with my Stamps GX.
The wave would only stand up in one section, but it sucked out and pushed back super hard when you put your rail into her. Felt better than anything I’ve felt on a surfboard in a while.
The wave would only stand up in one section, but it sucked out and pushed back super hard when you put your rail into her. Felt better than anything I’ve felt on a surfboard in a while.
I’m the opposite right now. All I’ve been riding are my fishes and don’t feel like getting on a thruster. But the incoming swell will probably force my hand soon.
3-4+ W wind swell, went to the Southbay for the vastly cleaner conditions. Scored a few fun ones, pretty crowded, but peaks to pick off
Couldn't do the birthday session yesterday so opted for today. And I knew it was going to be tough. Solid overhead 10 sec windswell with a quickly dropping tide. Current, lots of it, and it got worse as the tide dropped. Brutal reverse rips that just held you in place.
Was not a long sesh. Took a while to get out the back and to the sandbar I wanted to go. Got a couple there but then it started getting impossible to stay on the sandbar because of the longshore current - if you're paddling against it and still going backwards, why even fight it? Just aim for another sandbar and don't get tricked out/in too far. Very hard to sit in the right place, highly erratic with a lot of warbles.
But oh yes perfect roping right came in, easy drop, set up the upcoming barrel section pretty much perfectly except I got way too greedy. After what I went through, I wanted to get BARRELED. And oh yes I did, about 8 feet further back than I should have been, totally unnecessary, could have put myself anywhere I wanted on that wave. Still, went a good distance deep in that barrel before the bottom trench got a little chaotic. Took that exit when it presented itself without too bad repercussions. And then I got annihilated by the rest of that set, the next one, finally clawed my way out to about 40 feet from the lineup when I got absolutely drilled by a cleanup set, didn't even try to duck dive the first two, just annihilated, barely surfaced from the first before the second landed on my head. Sent way in, far enough, that fuck this, bellied one the rest of the way in.
That wasn't enough masochism for the day so I ran 12 miles after I got home.
Was not a long sesh. Took a while to get out the back and to the sandbar I wanted to go. Got a couple there but then it started getting impossible to stay on the sandbar because of the longshore current - if you're paddling against it and still going backwards, why even fight it? Just aim for another sandbar and don't get tricked out/in too far. Very hard to sit in the right place, highly erratic with a lot of warbles.
But oh yes perfect roping right came in, easy drop, set up the upcoming barrel section pretty much perfectly except I got way too greedy. After what I went through, I wanted to get BARRELED. And oh yes I did, about 8 feet further back than I should have been, totally unnecessary, could have put myself anywhere I wanted on that wave. Still, went a good distance deep in that barrel before the bottom trench got a little chaotic. Took that exit when it presented itself without too bad repercussions. And then I got annihilated by the rest of that set, the next one, finally clawed my way out to about 40 feet from the lineup when I got absolutely drilled by a cleanup set, didn't even try to duck dive the first two, just annihilated, barely surfaced from the first before the second landed on my head. Sent way in, far enough, that fuck this, bellied one the rest of the way in.
That wasn't enough masochism for the day so I ran 12 miles after I got home.
6-8 foot messy Pismo beach, no takers. I would have paddled out, but I didn’t.
It's not THAT bad. It's just cold and sloppy and not really worth it up there unless you find the right little cove/corner.
That wave actually looks really fun.
I am guessing there is a shitload of current too. And not helpful ones either.
cove there is so deep you can make it out dry haired with little effort. Watched for a while hoping to see someone go for it. Too messy and shifty though, with real big sets every fifteen minutes ishThat wave actually looks really fun.
I am guessing there is a shitload of current too. And not helpful ones either.
North side of the pier getting out would have been a little hairier. No mush on this left, thumping. Being that surfers are old at 30, I had a laugh at how freely pictures are taken here now. “Back in my day”…
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NS has been fun, but definitely a bit weird. Had a run of large trades well, a few days of good size NW and now looking at several days of large NW with ne winds. Gotten a couple fun sessions in but nothing classic. It's been really weird to see NW swell in the water but the whole stretch from Rockies to backdoor completely empty. Mostly surfed Lanis first few days, then makaha, haleiwa and sunset.
Glad I stashed boards here, 6'8" has been money. Making me think I should get a dd thruster for SD. Something with a flat deck and longer rail line maybe?
Looks like xl swell on the way so I'll probably be stuck at puaena or west side.
Glad I stashed boards here, 6'8" has been money. Making me think I should get a dd thruster for SD. Something with a flat deck and longer rail line maybe?
Looks like xl swell on the way so I'll probably be stuck at puaena or west side.