Down at the reef, just like it's supposed to be. Afternoon, low tide, plenty glassy, 8 guys out, well overhead. Had a couple of extra steep drops, the types where you should've paddled a bit more before standing up. Kind of like dropping into a pool on a skateboar, you have to have confidence and trust yourself. Even with light crowd, still had guys stuck at the bottom while I'm trying to take off.
One wave was particularly difficult, Had to delay the bottom turn, which put me in the bogus position halfway in the foam. I'm making it, but barely. Sure enough, kid trys to shoulder me, pulls back, and I got foamed and pushed deep. After the tumble, there's kid, insides of me and our are leashes tangled. WTF, I just gave a big frown, took of leash, acquired boar, and got the heck out of the impact swirly zone.
Another chatty fellow asked me how big the waves are going to be on Friday. "Huh? I have no idea". He follows up with "It's gonna be the biggest waves EVER". I deadpan back, "I've surfed here a long time, doubt it, Hey look a whale spout!". Total conversattion deflection.
Blakespear's Beach is looking pretty gone too, nice!!! Three years of sand dumping, gone in one week.
