*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***

vanrysss

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 25, 2019
1,600
3,628
113
from Oregon, now SD
First surf since coming down with the flu after Christmas. Dawn patrolled the usual spot for some fun leftovers. Still had the occasional 6ft set showing but overall very chill. Light crowd with the usual uncles. Didn't really get busy till maybe 10am. Sat off deeper towards the point and actually managed to connect a few inside to Vals. Allen Sarlo complemented me on one of my waves so 2023 is off to a good start.


Cruisy board is 8'0" x 20" x 3ish
PXL_20230101_211009700.jpg
 

gbg

Miki Dora status
Jan 22, 2006
3,770
3,250
113
I cant wait for March and shorter period swells, less rain and storms and more south swell.
 
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Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,361
2,170
113
Ponto
Down at the reef, just like it's supposed to be. Afternoon, low tide, plenty glassy, 8 guys out, well overhead. Had a couple of extra steep drops, the types where you should've paddled a bit more before standing up. Kind of like dropping into a pool on a skateboar, you have to have confidence and trust yourself. Even with light crowd, still had guys stuck at the bottom while I'm trying to take off.

One wave was particularly difficult, Had to delay the bottom turn, which put me in the bogus position halfway in the foam. I'm making it, but barely. Sure enough, kid trys to shoulder me, pulls back, and I got foamed and pushed deep. After the tumble, there's kid, insides of me and our are leashes tangled. WTF, I just gave a big frown, took of leash, acquired boar, and got the heck out of the impact swirly zone.

Another chatty fellow asked me how big the waves are going to be on Friday. "Huh? I have no idea". He follows up with "It's gonna be the biggest waves EVER". I deadpan back, "I've surfed here a long time, doubt it, Hey look a whale spout!". Total conversattion deflection.

Blakespear's Beach is looking pretty gone too, nice!!! Three years of sand dumping, gone in one week.
 

r32

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 1, 2005
17,709
9,085
113
Cambria
Swell building. Most spots washed out already with white (brown) water lines across the entire beach / coves. SW winds junking everything.

Swell peaks afternoon / evening. Buoys already big.
 

tedshred5

Michael Peterson status
Aug 5, 2015
2,648
6,190
113
Offshore wind northside of the pier so I paddled out for a quickie 2 waves before the rain fully rolled in. Wonky and drizzly but a few peaks on the switch from peak high tide. Pyzalien2XL with Roberts Large quads. I will not be participating tomorrow AM, but might cruise down to the beach early to watch the hyped swell hit.
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,239
22,548
113
Tower 13
I hope you guys appreciate my Xmas gift of swell the past couple weeks. I think me being stuck with my freakshow of a MIL bumped up the swell past OH. Get your fill because I’m back Sunday… so it’ll probably go flat
na you're good. I'm out for at least a week. Surf should come back down to rideable by Sat/Sun
 
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Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
2,996
4,498
113
Innzid
First surf since coming down with the flu after Christmas. Dawn patrolled the usual spot for some fun leftovers. Still had the occasional 6ft set showing but overall very chill. Light crowd with the usual uncles. Didn't really get busy till maybe 10am. Sat off deeper towards the point and actually managed to connect a few inside to Vals. Allen Sarlo complemented me on one of my waves so 2023 is off to a good start.


Cruisy board is 8'0" x 20" x 3ish
View attachment 144902
Sounds like a dream comeback. What's that board? Right up my alley.

After 4 days of East Coast points and two lay days I've been back to the local. Really good yesterday afternoon, and again early this morning. Shockingly 4 others paddled out after an hour, but they all sat way inside and only paddled for smaller, inferior waves. Happily stuck with the outside peak.
 
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vanrysss

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 25, 2019
1,600
3,628
113
from Oregon, now SD
What's that board? Right up my alley.
It's an 8'0" Pahi from Christenson, a single-fin step-up he shapes for Sunset. I don't know a ton about shaping but this thing really looks like it gets a lot of influence from his modern guns, totally different foil from my Chapman.
I've got a 6'8" that I lucked into cheap a few years ago because someone didn't take delivery. Rode it a bunch out on smaller days and figured it could be cool to size up. Local shopkeeper has a line on getting boards relatively quickly from him (~3months) so I ordered one over the summer. Been having a lot of fun on it.
 
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JDJ

Miki Dora status
Mar 1, 2014
4,785
4,974
113
The OC
I hope you guys appreciate my Xmas gift of swell the past couple weeks. I think me being stuck with my freakshow of a MIL bumped up the swell past OH. Get your fill because I’m back Sunday… so it’ll probably go flat
It ain’t going flat buddy. Extended forecast is macking.