meh day but the moonie made it work despite the Saturday crowd.
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*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter vanrysss
- Start date
yesterday had my spot all alone
love this time o year
not perfect, but the good ones offered speed, lips to hit, cutback sections
dwart performing well
a girl paddled out alone and didnt ruin anything, right at the end
all alone today. was like yesterday but better, even made a few tubes, working on tighter off the lips in the pocket
dwart is obeying. sure can go fast on a fast wave too. when i was leaving 5 dorks were marching in the direction of my peak.
i hope they went elsewhere. i dont wanna see em back again every day with friends for the next 3 months
been pretty stocked on surfing this week. after that shitty winter, i need this
love this time o year
not perfect, but the good ones offered speed, lips to hit, cutback sections
dwart performing well
a girl paddled out alone and didnt ruin anything, right at the end
all alone today. was like yesterday but better, even made a few tubes, working on tighter off the lips in the pocket
dwart is obeying. sure can go fast on a fast wave too. when i was leaving 5 dorks were marching in the direction of my peak.
i hope they went elsewhere. i dont wanna see em back again every day with friends for the next 3 months
been pretty stocked on surfing this week. after that shitty winter, i need this
glad u guys r getting sum. me had daddy daycare past 8 days and now off to my kids classmates bday party. yayyy!!!!
Waist to chest with a few overhead sets sneaking through on occasion, punchy semi combo, bigger ones had a lot of S influence. Still getting the weekend warrior ring rust off. Made a couple critical late drops and the new 6-2 basalt twinzer is feeling awesome under foot. 
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pinched nerve @neck has fukkered left shoulder and arm. one of the more painful and def most frustrating injuries ive endured and ive had my share of them.
worst part other than every thing is there is no clear recovery timeline or rehab. basically you just have to wait for the nerve bundle to settle down and then see whats left to work with.
That is a rough one. Necks are a bitch. I do silly neck exercises like once a week as injury prevention.
Been going through some issues lately with a new experience of losing strength in my left arm. What a trip. MRI scheduled, prednisone helped but it’s not 100 percent.
so weird to have no pain but I’m a few cases I’d go to push up on a wave and I’d just fall off the side. Crazy.
so weird to have no pain but I’m a few cases I’d go to push up on a wave and I’d just fall off the side. Crazy.
all alone but it wasnt workin right
got 2 good waves i wish i had on film, and a few good other sections but mostly frustration
at least i came out of that tube for my last wave
got 2 good waves i wish i had on film, and a few good other sections but mostly frustration
at least i came out of that tube for my last wave
Make this winter/spring end.
Looking forward to SoCal in a few weeks.
Looking forward to SoCal in a few weeks.
Waist to shoulder high A frame combo. Waited A little for the tide to start back up, but probably didn't need to, the combo was working making rippable bowls. Changed canards shifting forward, which I've come to prefer. Amazing drive out of bottom turns with quick release off the top such a fun board to ride. Stoked to be back in the water getting good waves.
Got back home late last night from a week in the Popoyo area. Was pretty maxed out Tuesday and Wednesday but totally doable on all but the few biggest sets, otherwise waves were really fun in the chest to nicely overhead range. Rode a 6'0" swallow tail Xanadu Viper the whole time. Nice to get back to riding a proper thruster for a full week.
Made the drive this morning for some fun waist-chest hollow little sandbar waves.
Made the drive this morning for some fun waist-chest hollow little sandbar waves.
Me, after "surfing" Saturday
Times like that when you're guaranteed someone else saw WTF you were doing. I looked like a baby giraffe, on rollerblades on ice.
Times like that when you're guaranteed someone else saw WTF you were doing. I looked like a baby giraffe, on rollerblades on ice.
3-6' lefts with barrel sections this am
then very fast rights over a foot of water
Soft reef I guess
Big ones you would race and then get a couple whacks on. Smaller ones were a race from start to finish
off to check another right now
then very fast rights over a foot of water
Soft reef I guess
Big ones you would race and then get a couple whacks on. Smaller ones were a race from start to finish
off to check another right now
I drove around for the better part of 2 hours dodging Bay to Breakers closures and looking for a wave. I couldn't bring myself to do it and went home.
fun at the beach breaks...
some overhead ones , I was out of my element. lucky for me, not many surfers around so I can kook it all I want
some overhead ones , I was out of my element. lucky for me, not many surfers around so I can kook it all I want
Only two others out a popular reef- tells you how mediocre the surf was. WH onshore lumps peaks. Not much to get excited about but enough push to think the next one might be decent (it wasn’t). Mostly one turn/slash and out a couple floaters. At least I got a bunch of waves.
dusted off the Gremlin XL swallowtail and found some reactor quads to put in. This boar is always fun. It’s kind of an ol’ reliable junky wave boar. But every time I surf it I think I could ride this a lot / most of the days around here.
dusted off the Gremlin XL swallowtail and found some reactor quads to put in. This boar is always fun. It’s kind of an ol’ reliable junky wave boar. But every time I surf it I think I could ride this a lot / most of the days around here.
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fun lil glassy peaks. chest to shoulder on the sets but really lully. got about a bakers dozen in 1.5 hrs and called it a day. crowd was mostly cordial, lots of regulars. good stuff considering i've been out for 2 weeks. hopefully more this week if life doesn't get in the way.