yeah fvck santacrvzin and his newly frequented point break shvitty wax job indo surfing sweet and delicious bag of sugarI used to like santacruzin before he became such an insufferable epic-wave-scoring gloater
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*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter vanrysss
- Start date
I finally surfed the new 5' 9" GrinderX several times this week from shoulder to HH. Board went very well, Tim nailed it! Lots of performance, while being user-friendly. This is board #2 by Stamps, and I am quickly becoming a believer in his magic. Between the Flare and Grindex, I am starting to question my twins - haha.
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cleaned up midmorning. got a few but it was super inconsistent. managed a 3 turn wave which is rare for me, 2 carves and a foam re-entry. that should get me through the long weekend.
Got up early and did some snooping around for non-surfing stuff. Wound up down at Machado Reef and it looked fun. Went home, played mow the weeds with my sickle while waiting for the tide to bottom out. Went back around 10:30, yeehaw, only 3 guys out.
Waves were in the jibbly range, but 4-5 in a set. Pretty slopey, but I managed to almost generate speed and get some warp/carves in. Tide was still a bit low, providing many corrugations at takeoff, always tough to judge which lump is the wave and which is fake. At time, during the sets, I would be the only one out. ARggh, still missed waves, I am out of tune.
Speaking of out of tune, after about an hour my lower back seized up as side effect from the manual labor. Still super sore and stiff.
No funny chit, Looks like Cardiff will finally be opening up, and the new Encinitas "parking situation / bike boondoggle" south of Swamis also. I did the math, there is one walking path, 4 bike lanes, and only two lanes for cars. What could possibly go wrong?
Waves were in the jibbly range, but 4-5 in a set. Pretty slopey, but I managed to almost generate speed and get some warp/carves in. Tide was still a bit low, providing many corrugations at takeoff, always tough to judge which lump is the wave and which is fake. At time, during the sets, I would be the only one out. ARggh, still missed waves, I am out of tune.
Speaking of out of tune, after about an hour my lower back seized up as side effect from the manual labor. Still super sore and stiff.
No funny chit, Looks like Cardiff will finally be opening up, and the new Encinitas "parking situation / bike boondoggle" south of Swamis also. I did the math, there is one walking path, 4 bike lanes, and only two lanes for cars. What could possibly go wrong?
Meandering May low pressure. Best day of 2023 IMHO and it's not close.
Thank you to everyone from the Carolinas to Central Florida who scheduled an offshore fishing tournament for this weekend!
Thank you to everyone from the Carolinas to Central Florida who scheduled an offshore fishing tournament for this weekend!
Waist to chest high South/Southwest swell couple runner but primarily a maintenance session
Follow up sessions in New Smyrna today. I can barely move. Caught a bunch of fun waves and there was enough nuggets to go around in the morning with tons of people out. By afternoon there was a light texture and I think everyone's arms were gassed? I was sitting out there getting waves at times with nobody within 80 yards of me. Had some peaky ones, some wedgey ones, even some long fast runners.
back in the US now.
Epic trip
surfed big HTs day 1 before wind killed it
Then really good medium sized lances left
Then Thunders for a few days from fun sized to terrifying
‘Headed south and surfed the hole which was barely working . Watched psycho bodyboarder ride into the reef and Not die.
‘also pretty sure I saw CI guys get off their boat and shoot a Gskate ad on the beach here.
then a fun head High left that was super rippable
memorable session at lighthouse rights , buddy and I paddled out in the middle of a rainstorm and almost drowned.
it was doh+ Crazy session. Friend had a two wave hold down. Didn’t know that was possible there.
surfed macaronis but ti wasnt as epic as last time, so many fucking people.
super fun Roxie’s right with my favorite locals in the world.
best surfing I have done in ages according to buddies
suicide rights was another highlight. Super fast rights and shallow as fuck
surfed Tidor and telescopes the next several days. Telescopes was really good but I was waiting for it to get better. It didn’t, still had a fun session there.
finished up in playgrounds
first with a session at large large bank vaults. friend fractured his tibia out there. another got wave of his life. Glory adn consequence type of morning.
‘then we hit nipussi which was mellower and super rippable but still well overhead,.
had a Brazilian encounter there which I was not stoked on but also met a some really cool Brazilians so they cancel out.
next day hit a ton of lefts and had a long session at pit stops.
finished with a burgerworld/a frames day.
Probably missed some sh!t . Indo is the best place in the world.
Black Beauty is an old man’s best board. Now it’s back to the point break machines, crowds and wetsuits
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Was having an epic Sunday surfing fun, leftover storm surf. First session was 8am low tide CH outside sandbar peelers on the Lightbender. Surfed for almost 3 hours. After that, walked down to the corner with the wife and pooch and had a large, late morning breakfast.
Went home and napped for 45 minutes (I was torched). Woke up, ran down to the beach to see what high tide looked like and it was surprisingly still offshore and fun looking. Ran home and grabbed my Plasmic and ran to the beach. Wife commented as I’m leaving “you’re going again?” Me: “Yes. Probably shouldn’t because I’m tired as fook, but it’s going to be flat after today.”
Get down there and catch a dozen or so clean WH high tide runners breaking in about a foot of water. After about a hour, I start thinking it’s time to head in, so I see a set coming and grab it but it closes out in front of me. I bail out (awkwardly) and go under. As I’m coming up board smacks me dead in the face right at the bridge of my nose. Fuck! Immediately put my hand up to my face and it’s covered in blood.
I’m cussing myself as I get out of the water, more from being injured than being in pain. The beach is absolutely packed because of memorial day weekend, so people are staring and I hear whispers of “I wonder what happened to him?” as I walk by with blood streaming down my face. I stop at a group of people that have a tent and a bunch of food and asked them if they have any paper towels. One of the girls immediately jumps up and hands me some ice and paper towels and asks me if I want a shot of Fireball. I declined. I hate shots. And I definitely hate Fireball. Lol.
Walk back to the house where I tell the wife what happened. She takes a look at me and thinks I may have broke my nose. She puts me in the car and drives me to the minute clinic where they do x-rays. X-rays come back negative so they glue the gash on my nose together and it’s back to the house for margaritas and cervecas
Head’s pounding today and nose is swollen as fook.
Moral of the story: don’t surf when you’re tired
Went home and napped for 45 minutes (I was torched). Woke up, ran down to the beach to see what high tide looked like and it was surprisingly still offshore and fun looking. Ran home and grabbed my Plasmic and ran to the beach. Wife commented as I’m leaving “you’re going again?” Me: “Yes. Probably shouldn’t because I’m tired as fook, but it’s going to be flat after today.”
Get down there and catch a dozen or so clean WH high tide runners breaking in about a foot of water. After about a hour, I start thinking it’s time to head in, so I see a set coming and grab it but it closes out in front of me. I bail out (awkwardly) and go under. As I’m coming up board smacks me dead in the face right at the bridge of my nose. Fuck! Immediately put my hand up to my face and it’s covered in blood.
I’m cussing myself
as I get out of the water, more from being injured than being in pain. The beach is absolutely packed because of memorial day weekend, so people are staring and I hear whispers of “I wonder what happened to him?” as I walk by with blood streaming down my face. I stop at a group of people that have a tent and a bunch of food and asked them if they have any paper towels. One of the girls immediately jumps up and hands me some ice and paper towels and asks me if I want a shot of Fireball. I declined. I hate shots. And I definitely hate Fireball. Lol.Walk back to the house where I tell the wife what happened. She takes a look at me and thinks I may have broke my nose. She puts me in the car and drives me to the minute clinic where they do x-rays. X-rays come back negative so they glue the gash on my nose together and it’s back to the house for margaritas and cervecas
Head’s pounding today and nose is swollen as fook.Moral of the story: don’t surf when you’re tired
but how was the board?Was having an epic Sunday surfing fun, leftover storm surf. First session was 8am low tide CH outside sandbar peelers on the Lightbender. Surfed for almost 3 hours. After that, walked down to the corner with the wife and pooch and had a large, late morning breakfast.
Went home and napped for 45 minutes (I was torched). Woke up, ran down to the beach to see what high tide looked like and it was surprisingly still offshore and fun looking. Ran home and grabbed my Plasmic and ran to the beach. Wife commented as I’m leaving “you’re going again?” Me: “Yes. Probably shouldn’t because I’m tired as fook, but it’s going to be flat after today.”
Get down there and catch a dozen or so clean WH high tide runners breaking in about a foot of water. After about a hour, I start thinking it’s time to head in, so I see a set coming and grab it but it closes out in front of me. I bail out (awkwardly) and go under. As I’m coming up board smacks me dead in the face right at the bridge of my nose. fook! Immediately put my hand up to my face and it’s covered in blood.
I’m cussing myself
Walk back to the house where I tell the wife what happened. She takes a look at me and thinks I may have broke my nose. She puts me in the car and drives me to the minute clinic where they do x-rays. X-rays come back negative so they glue the gash on my nose together and it’s back to the house for margaritas and cervecas
Moral of the story: don’t surf when you’re tired
Ha! A guy who was with the chick that gave me the paper towels asked the same thing
I didn't look at it until after I got back from the doc, but looks like my face caved in the rail a bit down by the fins. I guess I'm pretty lucky the fin didn't take out an eye.
Junky WH peaks at the reef with a guest appearance by the 5th TedShred. Plasmic with SOC did as much as could be expected but couldn’t improve the marginal conditions. Mostly a drop and then race the next section before it dumped and fizzled out. Think I got 1 or 2 half-turns in. Oh well, nice to get in the water after a week of unmotivating waves.
Saw the former Charlie Brown x Doom Arakawa IRL and @tedshred5 did an impressive job getting it back to white again.
Saw the former Charlie Brown x Doom Arakawa IRL and @tedshred5 did an impressive job getting it back to white again.
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Finally got out in the water again.
Between life stuff and awful conditions, it feels like forever.
Surfed out front at The Beach on old faithful. It was windy but there looked to be a few shoulder-head high corners.
First wave- Stand up late and stiff, get to the bottom on a head high one and plug the nose. head slaps water. full bell ringer.
After that I got a handful of fun lefts. It was fattening out on the takeoff, then kinda slowly providing little sections. It felt like I couldn't ever find the bottom of the wave and kept arriving to the lip super early. SO much that the lip was pretty much not existent.
All in all, not a bad start to summer break.
Between life stuff and awful conditions, it feels like forever.
Surfed out front at The Beach on old faithful. It was windy but there looked to be a few shoulder-head high corners.
First wave- Stand up late and stiff, get to the bottom on a head high one and plug the nose. head slaps water. full bell ringer.
After that I got a handful of fun lefts. It was fattening out on the takeoff, then kinda slowly providing little sections. It felt like I couldn't ever find the bottom of the wave and kept arriving to the lip super early. SO much that the lip was pretty much not existent.
All in all, not a bad start to summer break.
Surfed sh!t waves in cold water lately haha
so great to be back
so great to be back
I still havent completely forgiven you for Indo but this helpsSurfed sh!t waves in cold water lately haha
so great to be back
