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*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***

M

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,086
4,628
113
Innzid
Faaark! Been super busy at work, but thought I'd sneak in a quick nothing surf before my evening shift yesterday. Turned out it was quite powerful, and I got smashed on a floater, did the splits, and almost did a Mick Fanning (he tore his hamstring off his arse).
Got washed in fearing the worst, but managed to hobble up to my car. Can move leg lateral/medial and back/front, so most likely no full tear, but groin and glute both very sore.
First day off, and instead of a surf I just went and checked it: Beach barrelling, points clean and OH, big sandbar sooo good.
Blew it, but hopefully the physio will have some good news.
 
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C

CutnSnip

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2018
5,914
6,267
113
Probably dropping in on you, California
Saturday - NOC, lots of shoulder/HH lefts standing up and stretching down this particular bar. Lots of current so only wound up in the right spot a handfull of times but some fun ones non the less. Medium crowd but current kept everyone honest. GX w/ JJF mediums.

Yesterday quickie at the same spot - lot less swell but some rights on offer. Couple fun little wallet droppers and I was satisfied and done as the tide started to rebound and flatten whatever swell was leftover.
 
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slipped_disc

slipped_disc

Billy Hamilton status
Jun 27, 2019
1,668
2,557
113
Maz said:
Faaark! Been super busy at work, but thought I'd sneak in a quick nothing surf before my evening shift yesterday. Turned out it was quite powerful, and I got smashed on a floater, did the splits, and almost did a Mick Fanning (he tore his hamstring off his arse).
Got washed in fearing the worst, but managed to hobble up to my car. Can move leg lateral/medial and back/front, so most likely no full tear, but groin and glute both very sore.
First day off, and instead of a surf I just went and checked it: Beach barrelling, point clean and OH, big sandbar sooo good.
Blew it, but hopefully the physio will have some good news.
Click to expand...
Scary. I’ve done the full tear — straight off the bone. The telltale sign if you’ve done it: you get a bruise that’s hyper focused at the top of your hammy. You also would have felt a popping sensation. The attachment tendons are quite thick. And full tears are quite rare.

Hope you’re all good, Maz!
 
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M

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,086
4,628
113
Innzid
slipped_disc said:
Scary. I’ve done the full tear — straight off the bone. The telltale sign if you’ve done it: you get a bruise that’s hyper focused at the top of your hammy. You also would have felt a popping sensation. The attachment tendons are quite thick. And full tears are quite rare.

Hope you’re all good, Maz!
Click to expand...
Sorry to hear that you did it, but thanks for the info. No pop, no bruising, and a marked improvement since this morning, so I'm cautiously optimistic and relieved.

I usually heal very quickly - like surfing a week after breaking two ribs - so here's hoping.
 
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oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,051
17,543
113
San Diego, CA
Better than my low expectations this morning. Only 10 or 12 guys out, but only one unfamiliar face. A tight takeoff + only one direction working + an equitable locals rotation + my quick sesh = I only managed a couple fun little stomach-high wedges that ran through the inside on the Gremlin swallowtail with reactor quads again. Great lil boar.
 
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M

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,086
4,628
113
Innzid
Injury not as bad as feared, so I snuck out to the big sand bar this morning on the 8'0. Very very cautious, and I made sure to only go on makeable waves, but caught 5 or 6 2xOH runners, then made my way in carefully.

Off travelling for 4 weeks, so this was a nice bonus sendoff.
 
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santacruzin

santacruzin

Kelly Slater status
Oct 17, 2007
9,104
10,287
113
valley purgatory
cstreet said:
Run over by a twin fin or mouthed by a two toothed shark?
Click to expand...
brazzo ran me over after I yelled at his friend for a drop in on a critical wave.

caught a nug and was paddling back out from the end of the reef. Saw him at the end of a wave and paddled into the wave to avoid him and duck dive.

he turned down into me and I barely got under him. Ran me over badly.


he then tried to make me paddle to the beach
Thankfully my buddies paddled over and almost killed him
 
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chilly1

Nep status
Jan 4, 2010
738
1,111
93
Yesterday, drove to the spot, past miles of 6+ disorganized B Break, hiked in without checking, looked micro 1-2 at best, oh well, suited up and passing loc-dawg in the corner says its fun, sit inside and you'll get some. Turns out he was spot on with little barely paddle peak suck up down the liners, wter high 50's even had to pull down the hood! Maiden voyageing the RNF 95 (or 96?) been on ice for months as it came near 4L under what I expected from the litreage I got off app on catalyst! (learned a hard lesson to note targeted Ls) turns out no worries, little extra paddle power involved but thing was tick tack skating te micro runners down the line like a champ, ran the Mayhem Evil twin + trailers, turns were a bit stiff but, it was small (and I am Lrg)after all. Overall Friggen stoked and been kinda scoring lately!
 
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oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,051
17,543
113
San Diego, CA
Slightly onshore but still playful WH springtime wedges. Some would actually connect inside for a decently long ride. Another 1-2’ and it would’ve been a fun skatepark. Looked crowded but really only a couple guys that knew where to be. Got a bunch of waves on the Gremlin swallowtail with reactor quads again. Makes me feel like I still rip.
 
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