*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***

[PRCD]

I sur

Happy hour couple o days ago. Too many beers in to give it a go, It would have been fun.
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There was one loc out surfing well, the others? Not so well. Here are a few typical scenes. Before I could even crack my beer and get the camera out, I witnessed three way collision. Based on my pics, looks like kook chick and grom won the heat.
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I should've paddled out here this morning. Where I went was a lot of work and not much reward.

 

[slipped_disc]

Heal up Aruka and Pete!

Another twenty minute sesh yesterday at the local point yesterday. Glassy and fun. Moderately crowded. Caught two waves. Starting to dig the efficiency of these really short sessions – though it's my only choice at the moment. Still riding the Rocket Fish out there.

 

[tedshred5]

soo mushy at a reef break this AM, and to add insult to injury wind turned onshore halfway thru the session. thought it would be much better than it was, must have picked the wrong spot. oh well. at this point I'll sacrifice a little wave quality for a sparser crowd. Large Roberts quads in the EA Halfpint go perfect with that wide tail, give it an extra gear down the line

 

[oeste858]

Heal up Aruka and Pete!

Another twenty minute sesh yesterday at the local point yesterday. Glassy and fun. Moderately crowded. Caught two waves. Starting to dig the efficiency of these really short sessions – though it's my only choice at the moment. Still riding the Rocket Fish out there.

20 min is Oeste-style!

 

[000]

today was pretty good
and somehow i remained alone
still tricky with closeout sets and mushout inbetweens
but got a few worth the work

 

[oeste858]

Only had a @slipped_disc 20 min so couldn’t do the solid HH+ reef with 30-40 doods out. Went to another reef down the road that was smaller but only 7 guys out. Wanted to try the insanity as twin+trailer. Awesome. Only got 3-4 CH waves but one that lined up and let me do some bs hacks n wraps that felt real good. Could push hard off that lil swallow tail and twins.
While I was out, guys kept streaming out to the lineup- 8 in the last 5 min- but my time was up so took my last one almost all the way in before doing the low tide rock dance.

 

[slipped_disc]

20 min is Oeste-style!

How else is a working stiff gonna train for the Challenger Series?

 

[Maz]

Yesterday

 

[silentbutdeadly]

one guy out. would pass

 

[Maz]

That was me. Acceptable.

 

[Oceanslide]

That was me. Acceptable.

wtf? I want to be you.

 

[b.r.]

The May gray parted to sunny skies right when I got off work, went down to the beach and a small crowd of what must have been friends were all sitting too far north of a nice left set up so I paddled out and had the pick of the head high sets for an hour before the 4 PM crowd started to mob me, once I got triple o'd I grabbed one in. I was actually surfing well for the first time since my surgery and pneumonia combo platter of shittyness, but hopefully I am getting back to normal, rode the 5'9 Kenson Pleasure Pig. 2 more weeks and I am off for the summer, yewww.

 

[oeste858]

Yesterday

Goddamit Maz. I didn’t know you had a right like that!?! On my way

 

[Bob Dobbalina]

Yesterday

Now, if you flipped that thing around like the other appropriate points on your island, we could talk.

 

[Maz]

Now, if you flipped that thing around like the other appropriate points on your island, we could talk.

You mean like this? (Apologies for the slight devil wind).

 

[oeste858]

Whatever Maz.
I surfed onshore chest high wedges. Started out fun but crowd quadrupled after 30min. Lots of party waves.
Got a couple playful ones with the insanity stomping frothy late drops and doing my bidding. FS slashes feel really good with quad setup.

 

[One-Off]

Yesterday

Can I be your friend?

Our beaches have been fun but I've been hankering after a point. Here's what's on offer near me. Whaddayathink? Should I paddle out?

 

[Maz]

Can I be your friend?

I'm old and grumpy

Btw, just went and saw the photographer and ordered a print of the above photo. Stoked!

 

[doc_flavonoid]

Thanks fellas. It was actually easier in a way when the knee was totally messed up and swollen because surfing was just so obviously out of the question. Also the weather was really bad so there was not a lot of temptation.

Lately its gotten nice and the knee feels good enough to do all of my everyday stuff. My driveway pops out onto the highway 101 right at my local break so I cant go anywhere without seeing the conditions. Last weekend was super warm and calm and a fresh swell running. Pretty brutal even though the sand bars arent amazing.

At least ive been able to work out every morning. Got an airbike that ive been using a lot. Lots of hip and ankle strengthening stuff. My legs are feeling as strong as ever. The knee isnt pain free through the whole range of motion yet but i think its still improving. Its just very slow.

I might start to do some paddles just to get a little of that fitness back.

mental state during my current injury drydock has gone from pissed to depressed to apathetic. not giving a fuk is the scariest

 

[Aruka]

mental state during my current injury drydock has gone from pissed to depressed to apathetic. not giving a fuk is the scariest

what's up doc? what'd you do?