Finally started surfing on the reg since moving to LA a year ago. Hit a spot yesterday around 0930 with 2-3ft+ just a few people spread out enough. Lost count, rights & lefts. Fun time.
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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Paddled the green Tokoro X2 out in the dark and got a warm up wave the a pretty good one. It was packed with the regulars pre first light. It started pumping for about 20 minutes. Couple of feet overhead, glassy, no wind, low to rising tide. Board worked great waves were fun. Then it slowed way down and the Alphas came out early playing the tide. Waited a while and got a medium one in to go work. Frustrating at the end of my sesh but got a couple barrels and committed turns. I’m paddling out in the dark an hour earlier tomorrow. Checked the cam it’s still really good.
I guess this is payback for last weekend where I just lucked into a great sesh.
This was not great. The 2nd shift plan did not pan out. Crowded as absolute hell. Worst I have ever seen it and waves were weak, dumpy, mushy closeouts with a couple corners, south wind on it. And I surfed like crap. Got a few that I surfed decently, moved a little water here and there but overall, not a good session. Actually was getting better by mid-afternoon with almost no one out. At least the normal west wind beat the south wind. Oh, and kick-part of tailpad came off in middle of session.
BUT.
All this was made up for by seeing my daughter, who has been so skittish about going past her ankles in the water, kicking her way out on the boogieboard about halfway to lineup. Totally on the back of the board, no paddling, just kicking, learned the hard way not to be sideways when the whitewash hit her. She got rocked a few times but didn't give up. Pushed her into a couple but overall, she caught most of the waves herself, going about 25-30 yards in, all the way to the sand. My strategy of just sitting back and letting her go at her own pace seems to have paid off - she was stocked. Her little brother decided to follow her lead a bit too. Major progress in the process of becoming bona-fide surf rats.
This was not great. The 2nd shift plan did not pan out. Crowded as absolute hell. Worst I have ever seen it and waves were weak, dumpy, mushy closeouts with a couple corners, south wind on it. And I surfed like crap. Got a few that I surfed decently, moved a little water here and there but overall, not a good session. Actually was getting better by mid-afternoon with almost no one out. At least the normal west wind beat the south wind. Oh, and kick-part of tailpad came off in middle of session.
BUT.
All this was made up for by seeing my daughter, who has been so skittish about going past her ankles in the water, kicking her way out on the boogieboard about halfway to lineup. Totally on the back of the board, no paddling, just kicking, learned the hard way not to be sideways when the whitewash hit her. She got rocked a few times but didn't give up. Pushed her into a couple but overall, she caught most of the waves herself, going about 25-30 yards in, all the way to the sand. My strategy of just sitting back and letting her go at her own pace seems to have paid off - she was stocked. Her little brother decided to follow her lead a bit too. Major progress in the process of becoming bona-fide surf rats.
round 2 was not as friendly as round 1, but ended on a much better wave.
stamps quiver continues to impress. Flare with muchacho blackstux
stamps quiver continues to impress. Flare with muchacho blackstux
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Now I have to figure out who urchined is. I'm the guy on the LB, surfed north side.
Second session at PPP was pretty perfect. HH+, glassy and still super clear water. Must have some heavy sand there. Waves not as big as morning, but more concentrated with higher power to size ratio. Somehow managed to get double coverage on one, kid on fish was blown away. He said the fade after coming out of the first was "rad". I laughed and looked at his buddy Derrick, and said, "Derrick's seen me surf a lot better than that". Derrick cracked up. Crowd at PPP is much higher talent level, but wasn't overpacked, only 6 rippers plus another 10 stoked peeps.
Double session, last one was two+ years back. Stocker of a day!
Probably should hang with wife tomorrow.
I'd like to hear the OB/Loma stories. How was NPSP's day?
Second session at PPP was pretty perfect. HH+, glassy and still super clear water. Must have some heavy sand there. Waves not as big as morning, but more concentrated with higher power to size ratio. Somehow managed to get double coverage on one, kid on fish was blown away. He said the fade after coming out of the first was "rad". I laughed and looked at his buddy Derrick, and said, "Derrick's seen me surf a lot better than that". Derrick cracked up. Crowd at PPP is much higher talent level, but wasn't overpacked, only 6 rippers plus another 10 stoked peeps.
Double session, last one was two+ years back. Stocker of a day!
Probably should hang with wife tomorrow.
I'd like to hear the OB/Loma stories. How was NPSP's day?
~8am paddle out at the point in SC. ~Head high, inconsistent at times, and the hoards were on it fast. Not a local so sat off the bowly section and hunted ones that broke a little bit further out or wide. Managed to get a few set waves from just being in the right place at the right time. Best wave was overhead and stood up for multiple turns. Took the fish out today which was the right call considering the higher tide.
Gorgeous day out, but lots of fuckery in the lineup. Surprised there wasn't more jawing or a scuffle.
Gorgeous day out, but lots of fuckery in the lineup. Surprised there wasn't more jawing or a scuffle.
I’ll be looking for ya mr sopa. I was mid zone. I had my 14 yr old daughter with me. She was stocked. Big surf for her. A few of us were calling her into sets so she couldn’t back out. Surprised how much swell was sucking in there compared to other spots nearby.
I surfed OB yesterday. Fun, but insanely crowded with a hungry mix of the usual top dogs plus a bunch of shoulderhoppers on funboards. I packed a barrel, but didn't make it out. A number of the other regulars were suspiciously absent, which leads me to believe another PL spot was firing.
Bailed today to the LJ reefs. Got some wonky but fun ones with a good amount of power behind them. This was a decent swell.
Another day of scrappy sessions. Beautiful day. Water is warm as hell. Must be 55F+. Almost uncomfortable in my oldest 5/4. Paddled out at the local to see if I could get one of the occasional right runners that was coming through. Got two in a row and then 3 people paddled from their little sh1t peaks to sit on me. Kelpy mushburgers, not worth hassling over so I bailed. Walked further up the beach to see if my buddy was having any luck on his corner past the reef. Saw him get a right so went out to join him. It was a bit better than what i'd been surfing in front of the creek. There were some lefts too, fun ones. We were having ourselves a good session for about 20 mins and then a guy on a funboard paddled out and b-lined it for us. He went for the first wave to come through, pearled, ate sh1t and then scrambled back out to try and hassle me for the next one. I didn't let that happen. As I was paddling back out I heard the whine of a drone above. My buddy had noticed as well and was already chewing the guy out. Go tell your buddy to screw off with the drone dude. Funboard guy paddled away, down the beach, the drone followed and then went back to the beach. The "pilot" ended up paddling out himself but they both stayed well away. Meanwhile our peak was improving as the tide dropped and another friend came out. We were all getting tons of waves while funboard guy and dronetard surfed their dumpy little closeout down the beach. Riding Loot w/ Machado pivot truster. Felt pretty good. The fins feel more normal than I expected. Got a couple barrels on the right. One in particular was pretty throaty and dirty with bits of kelp in the lip. Didn't quite make that one but traveled in it for a while. Made the next one though which stoked me out. Got a few fun lefts too but just turns.
Swell faded a bit in the evening so we went South to more exposed beaches and surfed a peak outside of a rock shaped like a tit. Album Insanity w/ quads. Second wave l almost got washed into the rock after stuffing my nose on a late drop. Sat and waited for a big set for a while and then when it came I was too deep and I had to holler my shoulder hopping friend into it. Watching from behind as that thing roped down the line was painful. Eventually more sets came and I got some pretty fun ones but nothing compared to the one that got away. The Insanity was the right board for the conditions but it is so stiff as a quad even with medium sized fins. Not sure if I will keep trying different combos or just give up and accept that it's better w/ three fins. Tide was flooding quickly and a rip started running through the peak and a little onshore breeze moved in just to make the message clear. Ok we get it, jeez. My buddy was already on the beach and I went for a small double up just to take in. It ended up having a pretty good line on it and I got a slash and a finner to close it out. The sun was setting as I crested the top of the worlds steepest sand dune. My legs were burning, my arms noodles. From the cliff top we watched through our fried eyes as the final orange glow disappeared. Food. Beer. Not necessarily in that order.
Swell faded a bit in the evening so we went South to more exposed beaches and surfed a peak outside of a rock shaped like a tit. Album Insanity w/ quads. Second wave l almost got washed into the rock after stuffing my nose on a late drop. Sat and waited for a big set for a while and then when it came I was too deep and I had to holler my shoulder hopping friend into it. Watching from behind as that thing roped down the line was painful. Eventually more sets came and I got some pretty fun ones but nothing compared to the one that got away. The Insanity was the right board for the conditions but it is so stiff as a quad even with medium sized fins. Not sure if I will keep trying different combos or just give up and accept that it's better w/ three fins. Tide was flooding quickly and a rip started running through the peak and a little onshore breeze moved in just to make the message clear. Ok we get it, jeez. My buddy was already on the beach and I went for a small double up just to take in. It ended up having a pretty good line on it and I got a slash and a finner to close it out. The sun was setting as I crested the top of the worlds steepest sand dune. My legs were burning, my arms noodles. From the cliff top we watched through our fried eyes as the final orange glow disappeared. Food. Beer. Not necessarily in that order.
NOC lather, rinse ,repeat. Mostly waist to maybe chest. Slightly better shape than yesterday and had a small section to myself for an hour . Fun, warm water, 6-2 Model F twinzer
shoudl ahve surfed teh same stretch of ebach as N4S to drop in on him. instead made a breakfast burrito and was a general lazy arse until i paddled six miles. swell on the way....winds too. hope you all check the camssee gloom n wind and stay home.
Same spot as Friday, another peak to myself, 0930-1130. I find it hard to believe that I moved to a metro area of 12 million people and can surf alone. It's almost easier to do here than it was in Santa Cruz. Rode the 5'10" twin today. Been a while, first few waves were kooky but by the end I was doing alright. Before today and for the last month had been riding an 8' long twin. I think I'll stick to the 5'10" until conditions warrant something different. Need to get back to my roots.
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Paddled out in dark on the green X2. Got 5 waves before anyone paddled out. And 3 more before first light. Two of them I was too deep on. One was really good. The rest were ok. Weekend crowds have been gnarly. But today was a little better. Waves were a little overhead and fun. Got a little barrel and fell in a long one. Did a vert top turn in front of Neal and got burned by Gregg. Neal said he got the burn shot. Hope it’s when I was giving Gregg the bird as he was kicking out. We were watching one of the Hui Uncles to see if he was going to make a late drop and I pulled back cause Davey Boy whipped. His friend whipped on it too and ran me over. The nose of my board gave him a big ding on the bottom of his board. It was a weird situation cause I think Davey was telling him to go too but I paddled out of Davey Boys way and into his. Davey told him he’d fix the board. Glad I didn’t eat his fins.
Checked OBSF (Noreiga) at dawn, full-ish tide and lots of morning sickness. Decided to opt for a breakfast sandwich and football instead.
Went back for low tide and got a good 2.5h in. Pure sun, light wind, and around 30C. Head high and peaky. Took out a 5'11 stretch 2x4 as a thruster. Haven't ridden an epoxy all that much but I like how this board feels. This upcoming week looks pretty good too!
Went back for low tide and got a good 2.5h in. Pure sun, light wind, and around 30C. Head high and peaky. Took out a 5'11 stretch 2x4 as a thruster. Haven't ridden an epoxy all that much but I like how this board feels. This upcoming week looks pretty good too!
a couple days of early season 12@15 had my shoulders feeling it.
body felt much better today after a wind (30kts) enforced lay day yesterday
wind was down this morning with lots of residual chunk on it. felt like the last degraded gasp of an april swell. managed to get myself in the right spot over a couple hours to stair step my way into a few that squared off on a nub of sand on the inside.
head high+ over boarded on the 6-6 stubb vector but whatever. helped with the longshore sweeping off the bar. lots of peeps on the beach looking to beat the inland heat. nice afternoon nap. no compliants.
body felt much better today after a wind (30kts) enforced lay day yesterday
wind was down this morning with lots of residual chunk on it. felt like the last degraded gasp of an april swell. managed to get myself in the right spot over a couple hours to stair step my way into a few that squared off on a nub of sand on the inside.
head high+ over boarded on the 6-6 stubb vector but whatever. helped with the longshore sweeping off the bar. lots of peeps on the beach looking to beat the inland heat. nice afternoon nap. no compliants.
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Surflie said it was flat today, so I hung out at home until about 4 pm. Took the paddle board. Turns out, there was a nice swell. Waist to shoulder, and dead calm winds.
Watcha gonna do? U use the equipment you brought. Went 5 miles in sheet glass
Watcha gonna do? U use the equipment you brought. Went 5 miles in sheet glass
Got a rare Saturday afternoon window and lucked into some glassy uncrowded peaks as everyone was packing up for dinner.
Waist to chest burgers on a new to me White Diamond 2. Nice to have a thruster groveler again, been riding some variant of a twin all summer.
Waist to chest burgers on a new to me White Diamond 2. Nice to have a thruster groveler again, been riding some variant of a twin all summer.
Timing was off on the latest swell. Watched it all Saturday just to have it shape up in the afternoon when I had to do something. Next morning got out early and was little wind at the local but there was a pesky side swell that made the sets a little deformed. Got a couple of decent turns and 2 hours later pulled the plug and went to a rivermouth that I thought might have some better shape. Bottom turn on wave 2 and I slid out. Did not feel good and was dreading turning over my board only to find that when I put the Futures back in I didn't push it all the way down and was sticking out a little. Screwed it back together and got a couple of walls and even packed barrel. 5 hours of surf and I was done! Wind came up last night and destroyed any thoughts of surf this morning but went to check regardless. Got my gear and went back out to look at lunchtime and the wind had calmed a little but swell was still funky. Wind just cut and glassed off but wouldn't ya know it, timing, got some stuff to do... LOLz
My ribs are so so after this three day run of surf (usual don't surf very much for 4-5 months, then surf a lot = sore ribs for this slim fella). Had to head south due to size and winds, but yesterday was able to stay in the City. Beach was packed!
Not lots of great rides, some laughable falls due to poor coordination (where is the muscle/nerve memory after all these years of surfing?), but plenty of good duck dives, and one really nice late take off into a closeout. I am so out of shape.
Not lots of great rides, some laughable falls due to poor coordination (where is the muscle/nerve memory after all these years of surfing?), but plenty of good duck dives, and one really nice late take off into a closeout. I am so out of shape.