*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

jkb

Phil Edwards status
Feb 22, 2005
7,297
1,472
113
Cen Cal
Paddled out at a popular spot. The main peak was throwing out a couple of good sized sets on occasion, but I decided to hang out away from the crowd on an inside corner that would wedge and slingshot you into the main peak. Caught a couple of fun ones, but needed a bit more board than the oyster fork. My new 5'9 probably would have been perfect, but I haven't received it yet.

Here's to a better surf year than the last one. :shaka:
 
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Hdip

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2005
2,787
265
83
Malibu, CA
Looked smaller in the dark. So I paddled out on my 6'1". Brutal drop on the first one pearled hard. 2nd one I made but as I saw the set out the back I would've had to paddle through I said screw that. Went in and grabbed my 6'9". Lots of pocket rides. 1 barrel I made. A few I drove deep, but didn't make.

I thought people would sleep in today, but no it was crowded. I'm out of the country on a family trip the next week so I'm sure you guys will find waves. You're welcome.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
3,582
2,161
113
eastside oahu
It’s been big on the NS so wasn’t sure if my regular spot was handling. Drove out there anyway. My regular handles up to DOH. I saw some wash throughs when I pulled up. So I sat on the bench and watched for 10 minutes. After the close outs the water would settle and get clean and medium size waves looked doable. Nobody was out.

Paddled out and turned around and my friend who lives there was right behind me. We traded waves for two hours before a couple other friends came out. We got mowed every 10-15 minutes or so but there were some fun ones. I got tired pretty fast probably due to the cold I’m getting over but I didn’t want to leave Dave by himself. He’s recovering from cracked ribs and I kept checking on him after each wash through.

Rode a 6’0 Tokoro 4X. Board felt good. Didn’t get barreled but got a turn that felt really good. There’s an inside section that will stand up before the channel. If it’s north it’ll tube or you can hit the lip. But on this wave I saw the bump and laid into a roundhouse, must’ve been in the right spot cause the board just accelerated thru the turn and I tagged a bs reo on the rebound. Got a hoot from one of my friends. Stoke-ed.
 

obslop

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Feb 4, 2002
8,045
1,507
113
san diego, CA
surfed today. stoked.

late morning; mostly okay with some higher quality sets on occasion.

best was a head high right that allowed for a high speed check turn to speed run to committed rail turn into close out.

felt good.
 

b.r.

Miki Dora status
Dec 19, 2003
5,138
610
113
Leucadia
store.cdbaby.com
paddled out this evening, got a few waves on my used new to me 6 0 kenson double wing twinzer, it is a buddies board that is a little more volume then the one i used to ride but good for me as I work through my bad shoulder and holiday weight gain, (shoot did surfcat do a weigh in this year?) got a big right right of the bat, but then took a few on the head as I tried to poach the inside, my 4/3 Boz is too old now and i found a hole in the top of the shoulder and after an hour and a half i was cold and my feet were numb. gonna grab a new 4/3 tomorrow when the family and visiting family head up to magic mountain and i get some peace and quiet and a session with a new full suit. happy new years fellas, 2020!
 

retodd

Duke status
Feb 23, 2009
16,429
1,127
113
Went to my 3rd favorite jetty and scored some head high lefts . mellow crowd .
Fuse box set up as a quad .
Felt great like I could do no wrong . Lots Of good turns , floats, and end section shwaks
Lots of waves so never really sat for long and half way through the sesh a nice member of the opposite sex decided to join .
 

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
19,414
883
113
San Francisco, CA
1-1-2020 saw me pick up Friend #1 at 5:30 AM to head south to some place north of Carmel.

Size looked pretty big, buoys 10-12 ft at 20+ seconds.

Don't bother really checking other spots as it is dark for the size, and wind is gonna come onshore sooner rather than later.

Get where we want to be, and, gol-durn it, what is it with all non-hungover people surfing?

And the size is…not there. Strange. Probably a mix of the end of a swell giving the size, and the new stuff giving the period. Maybe. Maybe the long period means the big stuff comes infrequently and we are just not patience enough to wait for that to happen.

Anyway, suit up, do a few, like three, jumping jacks, you know, just enough to remind me I really need to warm up properly next time, then sprint-sneak out through the hole (mostly) and only have to duck through the crumbled remains of a set that had swung wide (brunt of it misses me in other words) and barely slows my sprint through/around the inside).

Friend #1 decides to warm up properly, then attempts to follow my lucky path and gets mowed, and then must take the very long paddle way around. The dubious bonus of this is he gets to see my first ride.

First ride is the 3rd wave of the set...first wave was super clean, and big. But not as big as it should be per the buoys. The rippers fought for it, with two going. Second wave was older guy on a pointy longboard (later saw said board...had a diamond tail...which is my way of saying it wasn't a pintail like on a big wave gun but it was rather sort of a wide point, so not really a longboard?). Third one was smaller, so the outside guys couldn't get it, and that allowed me to paddle in from the shoulder for a very nice, sort of frothy bowling peak on my 7'6". The heavy glass 2x 6 oz deck and 1x 6 oz bottom smoothed out things out. The wave took a different route than the previous waves, so the ride was less of the usual that I was expecting, the sections a bit longer and more iffy, but with some extra effort, was able to stay ahead of things for the entire ride and got to swoosh past Friend #1.

Next wave was the goofy oddball left, which I probably shouldn't have gone for, but when it swings wide, the left can be punchy though short....this time it turned out to be rampy and long, the highlight being that I didn't get worked on the way back out.

Takes a bit of time for Friend #1 to get his first…has to mix it up a little with someone who got ticked at him when they both tried for the same wave and then both didn’t go. But when he gets one, it is a long time till I see him again. Later he says he snagged an insider that popped up when he was paddling back out and it was too juicy to pass up.

Next few ways are good, and each one feels better than the next. Love it when you remember how an infrequently surfed spot works, what happens when the tide changes, how incoming long period swell changes the dynamic, and how this particular board works. Best when you feel comfy enough to start jockeying for the better waves at the primary peak and then know when to move in/out/sideways for different sets.

Best wave turns out to be a wide swinging set that initially I am actually a bit on the inside and wrong side of. A mad scramble of the main peak rippers, but really it is just me and two others who have a shot, though it doesn’t stop anyone from angling for it.

Someone is shouting, at me or in frustration or at something/one else, I can’t tell. Look over the shoulder, it is just me in contention now.

12-15 ft (?) on the face, but when they swing wide, waves tend to really hold up for a while before tipping over, so I tell myself that I have time to make it even if it feels like I’ll be taking off under the lip or with the lip on my neck. The heavy board seems to accelerate slower than I want as the wave lifts up, there is that moment of ‘do I have the speed to catch this?’ Wave stands up, board goes down and I have that excellent pop up which feels less like I am pushing myself up and more like “all I have to do is stand as the floor drops”.

Not late, not early, just a solid entry between those two moments.

Sharp and buttery carve on the bottom (I know that seems like an oxymoron but all the same, it was both), up to the top, see Friend #1 streaming for the shoulder with few others, then backside downcarve, then hard over to get going in the proper direction, slow stalling moment as I rise back up the wave, then aim down the line, pumping as I ride the ramp down, carve for the long section and think I am totally styling in a relaxed posture with the lip curling above and just behind me, then on the shoulder, another cut back, another run, but shorter, then a bit of mild, very mild, slashy S-turns past all people stuck inside, and float over the seaweed clump, flop on top and start the long paddle back.

Some more waves, including me going on what I thought was going to be a quick time killer that turned into me getting thumped by a 6 wave set. Got lashed by kelp as I brushed the bottom and had a surprising amount of water shoved down my throat via my nose. Saw a young guy lose a board into the rocks, saw a guy on a rasta-foamie alternately ride well and take abuse on too late of a drop, best ride was probably a 55 yr guy taking off under the one of the biggest waves of the day that hit the main reef perfectly….lovely mid-face top turn made it a short tube ride, comes out, stall/fades the next building section, drives under it, off the bottom then up to floater, then past me. As I turn, I see spray as he hits the lip two more times, then I have to get out of the way of the next wave.

Friend #1 is gassed, tells me he can go any time, and after a set, is gone. Catch two small ones, nothing I can go in on for a day like this, but then get ancy and can’t seem to find the one I need. Crowd is growing and I keep making poor choices on where to set up. Winds seem to be changing, sea surface changing too. A third small wave turns out to be my last, a drop and scoot past a section, cut back into the soup, then belly it along the edge of the sneaker hole to the 10 ft of sand between rocks.

On the way home, we get to chat about old New Year’s Day surfs, that time with Friend #3 north of the GG Bridge, that time in town, that stupid time in the crazy offshores and pounding rain, that time we drove all over and at the only place that could have worked was the wrong tide so we didn’t go out, and how I could have gone in after than one great wave I had today and been fine with it.

Super start to 2020.

PS
Need to pin this thread to the top.

PPS
When I drop off Friend #1, the Beach is a mess of chop, onshore winds, and some white-water showing on the outer bars.
 
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jkb

Phil Edwards status
Feb 22, 2005
7,297
1,472
113
Cen Cal
You know those days where everything just comes together.......you're in the perfect spot, set waves are coming your way, your board feels perfect under your feet. That's exactly opposite of what happened to me today.

Paddled out in some sizable waves. A few pass right under me. Took a few on the head. Finally caught one an hour into my session and felt like a baby calf getting to its feet for the first time. Not sure WTF happened but I sucked today, hard.
 

Iceman

Phil Edwards status
Apr 1, 2002
6,037
203
63
NorCenCal
Did the annual Big Sur campout for New Years, and for the first time in 8 years, we were completely skunked.....because it was too....effing....HUGE! Didn't stop us from having a good time though. And on the way back into town this morning, managed a fun session at a rare right-hander. Fun carvable waves in the chest-headhigh range. Got crowded but had already picked off some fun ones so was satisfied.
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,069
557
113
Oceanside, CA
couple fun ones. Oceanslide handed me my best wave for no reason.

did a few things that resemble surfing although reasonable minds could disagree on that claim.
I'll cash that in at some point, no worries. :drowning: I had very little luck today in an hour and a half-ish. Oh well,
better than not surfing and felt good to have a bit of energy in the water.
 
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oeste858

Nep status
Sep 11, 2017
840
956
93
San Diego, CA
HH-OH swell today in So. SD County. Looked cleaner this morning, but I had to get some work done. By the time I made it out, the high tide and sideshore wind fattened it out to HH sets. Slightly overgunned on R. Blackbird but there was a lot of water moving around and plenty of paddling to stay in position, so I’m glad I didn’t have to struggle on the 5’8” that was the other board in the car. Will try to make it out in the morning tomorrow.
IMG_7300.jpeg

What’s everyone in SD riding today??
 

b.r.

Miki Dora status
Dec 19, 2003
5,138
610
113
Leucadia
store.cdbaby.com
got a new fullsuit mid day after shuffling all the visiting relatives and my family off to L.A.. wind was kind of on it but went to a favorite bit of reef and only a couple guys were out, road a 6 foot kenson pleasure pig, wrong board for the conditions but it is high volume and got me out there pretty quick as a few people i saw on the beach never made it out, was really warm in my new psycho compared to yesterday in my old suit, almost was too warm after the paddle out, got cleaned up by a few sets trying to sit on the reef, got two sets and made it back out to see everybody went in. got a couple more rights and called it a session. so far 2020 is the start of my chase to catch surfcat's record.....