*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

[npsp]

Now I have to figure out who urchined is. I'm the guy on the LB, surfed north side.

Second session at PPP was pretty perfect. HH+, glassy and still super clear water. Must have some heavy sand there. Waves not as big as morning, but more concentrated with higher power to size ratio. Somehow managed to get double coverage on one, kid on fish was blown away. He said the fade after coming out of the first was "rad". I laughed and looked at his buddy Derrick, and said, "Derrick's seen me surf a lot better than that". Derrick cracked up. Crowd at PPP is much higher talent level, but wasn't overpacked, only 6 rippers plus another 10 stoked peeps.

Double session, last one was two+ years back. Stocker of a day!
Probably should hang with wife tomorrow.

I'd like to hear the OB/Loma stories. How was NPSP's day?

Not quite as good as yours it seems... Missed what I learned later was an ok morning at the regular (too much tide and bars not yet set). Son said D St. was real fun so ended up body surfing there in the afternoon for an hour or so and got a bunch of fun ones and got slammed a few times. Lost some weight so I need new trunks that will stay on....
Yesterday made the mistake of going north with my son and surfing crap O-side.
Tis the season for my regular to turn on so getting in shape to take beatings.
Glad you scored a double sesh Soup!!

 

[sdsrfr]

I am so out of shape.

I pulled 3 2hr sessions in 2 days and I have a limp on my “front” leg due to a giant baseball size knot forming in my thigh. Feels like I just did a massive weekend snowboarding in powder.

 

[teeroi]

Got 3 waves in the dark with just Barak. Then a bunch of regulars paddled out and I got 2 more while they were complaining about not be able to see. I figured out how Barak gets so many waves in the dark. He sits a little inside and wide and when he sees me go over a bump he paddles for it. I called him into a couple too. Going to tell him we need to take turns being the warning buoy.

Waves were fun. A little overhead, some were bumpy, mostly light texture. Pulses then long lulls. Light crowd compared to this weekend. I got some tubes and some hacks on the green Tokoro X2.

Got a few pics over the weekend from my friend Yuko.



She got Gregg burning me. He always says rights don’t count as a turn. So I got a right then went for the next left and he dropped in. I guess rights don’t count only if he goes right. Haha

 

[MathDebater]

I surfed OB yesterday. Fun, but insanely crowded with a hungry mix of the usual top dogs plus a bunch of shoulderhoppers on funboards. I packed a barrel, but didn't make it out. A number of the other regulars were suspiciously absent, which leads me to believe another PL spot was firing.

Bailed today to the LJ reefs. Got some wonky but fun ones with a good amount of power behind them. This was a decent swell.

Because of work I’ve hardly been a regular lately but it’s been such a sh!t show in OB lately, even weekdays, it’s mind blowing.

Scored the first day of the swell Basically to myself at a hard to reach spot. Watched a decent sized sail boat get smashed by a set and get pushed into the rocks. Never capsized but got pretty close before the coast guard got out there. Got one of my best waves of the day with a CG copter overhead making “offshore winds.” Big speed pump to quick shampoo followed a few nicely linked turns Into a fun end section. Felt pretty unreal with the sailboat getting towed through the waves down the beach and a helicopter almost directly over me.

Surfed a long stretch of beach the next two days on my GX with only a few people around and got some really fun ones, no barrels but some of my best backhand turns in ages. Definitely feeling out of shape after three days of surfing.

 

[20W-50 and blood]

paddled eight, got a handful of really fun waves on the way back in. was hoping to surf the evening. just checked...there's few kite surfers out. bummin!

 

[Aruka]

This morning had some ripping east winds. Headed to the open beaches which looked like a b-grade day in Jersey. So basically firing by my standards. A friend of mine paddled on a peak at one end of the beach but I thought I could do better so I kept driving. Glad I did. The sand bars are far from epic right now but there was a general area that had quite a few corners and it wasn't mushing out or running into a hole like the spot my novice friend chose. Took the Loot out again. DHD L sides, EA center. Best fin combo so far. Waves were mostly about chest to head with a few bigger sets. Punchy and hollow. Winds were strong for the first hour, making it hard to see over the ledge and it took me quite a while to find some good lineup markers and get into a rhythm. Eventually I found a kelp head that wasn't moving around and it served as a good point of reference. Got a bunch of barrels but most didn't let me out. A few larger waves came and they rolled along without tubing but I got some really fun turns. Board was feeling really good.

My novice buddy showed up and I got him lined up for a right. A good one. He made the drop and flew down the line. He was so pumped. That was the highlight of the session until a good double up came to me and I got a clean entry and exit. Short but sweet. Surfed for a long time. Overheated like crazy in my 5/4 and my face got fried from the sun. Ended the session on another right tube to doggy door.

Driving home the air temp gauge read 95F. At my house half a mile inland it was 98F. Easily the hottest day of the year.

 

[Yewstreet]

OBSF (Noreiga)

Light day at work, so decided to head out for the low tide in the early afternoon. Shoulder-head high and pretty clean. Heavy fog that kind of tripped me out since I couldn't really see land. Took out the 5'11 2x4 and I'm starting to really like it. Paddles like a champ and gets into waves easy. Mucked around getting a bunch of average waves. Still much better than waiting behind a screen for emails

 

[Aruka]

 

[silentbutdeadly]

'm up in your state for work helping people out while on leave. I tried so hard to get some coastal stuff but it didn't pan out.

 

[Havoc]

'm up in your state for work helping people out while on leave. I tried so hard to get some coastal stuff but it didn't pan out.

that's too bad u guys could've been chillin on aruka's tailgate sipping margaritas and watching the sun set together after a long session.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

that's too bad u guys could've been chillin on aruka's tailgate sipping kombucha and rubbing cbd oil on each others backs while watching the sun set together after a long session.

fixt

 

[Iceman]

Surfed some big and wonky waves on saturday morning. Nothing special but managed a couple fun rides on a 5'11'' that I'm trying out from my shaper. This one definitely feels better than the one I had originally shaped.

Got out this morning before sunrise on some decent lefts. It was super inconsistent but I picked off a couple fun ones before the tide got higher. The 5'11'' feels even better this time around. NIce and glassy. Hoping for more this afternoon.

 

[oeste858]

fixt

Smart to let the CBD oil absorb a few min before you put on your après-surf changing ponchos!

Made it out for quick midday sesh on Sat and Mon at the local reef #2. Would've been much cleaner in the morning, but wasn't possible. Onshore/sideshore wind and annoying crowd of frothers was on it, but some waist-chest high runners to be had. Rights were much longer when you could connect to the inside reef, while most lefts only allowed 1-2 snaps after a steep drop. I just kept moving around so I managed to sneak some around and under and outside of the crowd. The most aggro dudes would go right from deep so I finally just paddled around and took a bunch of set lefts: stuck some late drops and bs snaps that felt good. X-wing tomo projects out of turns so fast, I've been trying to focus on squaring off the bottom turn and really hitting that first section. I realized I've been skipping that or check-turning to build up for the 2nd section- probably got used to that high-line drift from riding a twin fish so much. Board handles like a snowboard on steep drops (torpedo nose will not pearl), recovers in bumpy white water, and likes sloppy/sideshore conditions. Seems dialed in with muchado blacksticks for now as they've work perfectly so far.

 

[jkb]

Found some clean walls this morning. Rode the Burch 'Gimmick' for the first time in a while and damn did it feel good. Such a scalpel of a board. Had some turns that felt really good.

 

[doc_flavonoid]

funny how it can be an utter shitshow of random fucktards in absolute dog crap conditions for fucking months on end, but once we get a little aleutian juice in the water all the pretty little surfers just vanish.

it was so clean and glassy today it made your eyes hurt. surfed a reeling head and half to double for 3 solid hours with a locals only crew of four, then three, then two.

officially flipping the bird at the rest of californias surflies magic cuckweed flock of fucking sheep. its on boys and girls and you got other sh!t to do til next summer.

late

 

[Maz]

This little low kicked up quite the swell for us. Peaked at 30ft/14sec.

Two sessions today, both on the 7'6 Webster. A grand total of 15 hard earned waves, lots of paddling, and lots of getting mowed down.

Might have a quiet whisky tonight.

 

[teeroi]

Paddled out in the dark. There was a big red moon right when I got there but when I turned around it slipped behind clouds before setting. It was really hard to see the waves in the dark. The water was glassy and the sky was cloudy with a strip of lighter sky just above the horizon. Barak and I took a couple on the head waiting too far inside. I felt motion sickness cause the horizon looked higher than it was and when the waves came in I was thrown off.

Had to start a new house today so I had to go in early but manage a tube on one wave and a Larry layback on another. Rode the HP Twin and it felt good. Jumping back and forth from twin to thruster has been getting easier.

 

[bluengreen]

Finally something to report. Month four of my recovery from a lumbar injury. Turns out the horrific MRI didn't mean sh!t because I'm feeling pretty good after paying out of pocket for a killer PT. Paddle my 8'3 out to a somewhat fickle left point just for the exercise, as I've been doing for a while now. What do you know it's kinda breaking on the fast rising swell that peaked here Friday and no one out. Decided to stroke into a couple and see what happens. Turns out I can pop up and ride a mushy shoulder pain free. Probably be a couple more months before I'm actually surfing regularly. But it's nice to feel a pulse of Northwest ground swell and ride some waves.

 

[rowjimmytour]

Paddled out in the dark. There was a big red moon right when I got there but when I turned around it slipped behind clouds before setting. It was really hard to see the waves in the dark. The water was glassy and the sky was cloudy with a strip of lighter sky just above the horizon. Barak and I took a couple on the head waiting too far inside. I felt motion sickness cause the horizon looked higher than it was and when the waves came in I was thrown off.

Had to start a new house today so I had to go in early but manage a tube on one wave and a Larry layback on another. Rode the HP Twin and it felt good. Jumping back and forth from twin to thruster has been getting easier.

Teeroi is a "Larry" lay back one of those backside lay into wave stalls to get tubed I loved watching/trying as a kid after seeing Hawaiians doing it?

 

[Yewstreet]

Got out at 26th in SC. Beautiful afternoon but reaaaaaaalllly inconsistent and lully. Got a few and got whomped a bit. Enjoying the hell out of Fall in California as opposed to the rain and 5/4, gloves, booties that I'm used to.