*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

[Aruka]

Yesterday was one of the best days of surf I've experienced in a while. Scored a fickle reef wave with just my best mate for about two hours before a couple other locals joined us. Overhead, long rights. Not super powerful, just kind of lumbering walls with most of the steepness in the top third of the face. It's so rare to get long waves here that allow for multiple turns in a row.

The only downside to the session was the kelp which was super thick. I rode the Loot because I was curious how it would do on this wave but there was a part of me that wished I'd had something more beaterish to risk in the kelp fields rather than this newish board. The board felt great. Easy entries and speed over the flat sections but unlike a fish, which is what I usually ride here, I was able to crack the lip and get a little more spicy in the pocket when the waves allowed. Unfortunately I did crack one of the side fin boxes slightly about halfway through the session. I kept surfing and it didn't worsen but now the board is on injured reserve drying out and waiting for repair.

Evening time we surfed the local. Low tide had some steep, tapering rights running across the middle sand bar. Some onshore winds but the 2nd and 3rd waves of the set looked tasty. Dusted off the 6'4" Driver and tried my luck. The waits were long but worth it. Haven't ridden this board since spring time and it felt so good to get back on it. Really only got like 3 good waves but they were really steep and powerful and I was able to push through a few turns which were easily better than anything I got in the morning. As much fun as I've been having on the stubby Loot there's nothing like having some rocker and a longer rail line to bury in waves that allow for it.

 

[oeste858]

Snuck in a rare morning sesh at almost high tide. Lots of water moving around so bigger than I expected. Guess morning crew has a pretty competitive vibe. 15 dudes, 30min, 3-4 waves, lots of paddling. Trickier than it looked from shore. HH+ sets popping up in a couple different peaks. Sections would randomly go chunky and stall you before the next section unloaded, so some quick reactions and evasive maneuvers needed. Might have to check the surfline cam for my one good wave. 5'9 X-wing did alright, but HH is probably about its upper end. Would've grabbed another board if I had checked size. Haven't surfed waves that big since maybe June. Nice to feel some adrenaline on the drops and even that dread having to duckdive a big outside sneaker set. If the wind stays down, might check it again midday. Hope everyone is getting some!

 

[Mr Doof]

Put in my time in leftover swell and strong north flowing current this AM.

Should have ridden a longer board to catch the slow jumbled waves. Fell more often than caught rides.

Better yesterday.

Ribs still sore, but not getting more sore. Didn't seem to get as tired as fast.

At end of surf, walking back south, saw weirdo trying to grab something in the swash zone as the water receded. There were a few other bystanders watching as well. Could not tell what he was darting about trying to catch or grab. He'd run to something only he could see, bend at the waist, start grabbing and pulling up fistfuls of sand...not digging per se, just trying to grasp ahold of something and when he didn't get more than sand, would unclench his fist and try again, then suddenly spin, and dart the other way and repeat.

 

[sdsrfr]

At end of surf, walking back south, saw weirdo trying to grab something in the swash zone as the water receded. There were a few other bystanders watching as well. Could not tell what he was darting about trying to catch or grab. He'd run to something only he could see, bend at the waist, start grabbing and pulling up fistfuls of sand...not digging per se, just trying to grasp ahold of something and when he didn't get more than sand, would unclench his fist and try again, then suddenly spin, and dart the other way and repeat.

god I miss the SF weirdos. please tell me he was either in full attire or just underwear.

 

[enframed]

Hit that same spot I've been going and again had the same peak to myself I've had the last three times I've been out there. Waves were 2-3 with occasional 4-5ft set, maybe 2 of those in an hour or so. Small long period. Used the new Album 6'8" x 19.5" x 2.5" Twinsman asymm. Back when I was looking and asking here someone mentioned Album and I looked at his website and this shape spoke to me, as they sometimes do. Ran Rastovich twin set (Futures). I've tried Stretch twins and one other set I had on hand and neither worked how I wanted, so spent some bread on these. Works dreamy. Lots of closeouts but the last wave was a set and nice bottom turn with a little DTL and then floater finish. End on a high note. I jumped in around 10:45 I think. One guy joined just before the wind picked up and destroyed it. Wind came on all the sudden, was cool to feel, but bummed the session was cut short. Shape would have been better as the tide dropped more, too. Hopefully swell sticks around tomorrow.

Got out at 26th in SC. Beautiful afternoon but reaaaaaaalllly inconsistent and lully. Got a few and got whomped a bit. Enjoying the hell out of Fall in California as opposed to the rain and 5/4, gloves, booties that I'm used to.

I miss 26th Ave. Super fun wave and the crowd was never that bad.

 

[Maz]

Another day on the 7'6. Only 6 waves in two hours, and lots of paddling against an increasing longshore current, but so worth it.

Nothing like a long rail on a big wall.

 

[teeroi]

Teeroi is a "Larry" lay back one of those backside lay into wave stalls to get tubed I loved watching/trying as a kid after seeing Hawaiians doing it?

Inside joke with my friends. If you do a layback/drop wallet with no spray it’s called a Tyler Wright layback. If you put up a fan it’s a Larry. Some of the WSL announcers call it a Larry. After Bertleman. Here’s a screen grab from the wave yesterday.

 

[Aruka]

Damn teeroi, your spray photoshopping skills are really coming along

 

[Bohter]

Bohter boated yesterday....got up there early and got some goods.....
Got pretty crowded after 10am.....
Couple feet overhead on the sets....
A few connecting all the way thru....

Leash snapped outside on a big set and had to swim to the inside in front of the hut to fetch my board...
Was a long lap...

 

[Iceman]

Surfed later in the afternoon on Tuesday. Wind held mostly off at a spot that typically stays windy all day after 10am. Swell had filled in more consistent that earlier that morning and there were only a handful of people out. Took out the same 5'11'' I had ridden but changed it to a thruster instead of a quad and had an absolute blast. Lucked into a couple of the bigger set waves too. Super stoked. Some of the better waves I've had since last winter.

 

[rowjimmytour]

Bohter boated yesterday....got up there early and got some goods.....
Got pretty crowded after 10am.....
Couple feet overhead on the sets....
A few connecting all the way thru....

Leash snapped outside on a big set and had to swim to the inside in front of the hut to fetch my board...
Was a long lap...

I wonder if I passed you yesterday at around 6:30 Winchester?

 

[Maz]

Inside joke with my friends. If you do a layback/drop wallet with no spray it’s called a Tyler Wright layback. If you put up a fan it’s a Larry. Some of the WSL announcers call it a Larry. After Bertleman. Here’s a screen grab from the wave yesterday.

View attachment 98541

Tyler does have a very distinct way of doing laybacks, aye! Signals them ages in advance, then doesn't make much of them. (Unreal surfer in general, but those aren't her forte in my view)

 

[npsp]

It's been pumping all week and getting progressively more crowded each day. Monday was super fun. Well overhead messy surf with just a couple of old time regulars battling the rip for some long walls with whoop dee doos to make it exciting. Today I flipped it pretty late on a solid right and and crashed in front of my son. "Nice drop dad" . Been a great week so far.
Could be bombing on Sunday but maybe too west for my liking at my advanced age and and declining courage.

 

[oeste858]

Surprised there’s not more posts from SoCal this week with the swell. Trying to keep the crowds down? LOL. 89 F & sunny, warm water, and SW swell. It’s a f’n circus out there: 3/4 of the crowd don’t know what they’re doing. So many softtops & midlengths- and from what I’m seeing, NO ONE is able to rip on a ML! They’re a crutch. So many wasted waves. I’ve stopped giving the benefit of the doubt and decided to just go, Teeroi style.

Started at a smaller spot around the corner, but the draining tide killed it so made the 10 min paddle over to reef #2. It looked good but 25-30 people, carnage on every wave. I stayed on the inside right and picked off 10-15 WH+ runners in 30 min. Was fun and the inside rock obstacle course is becoming a favorite lately- but wish I had the time & energy today to go hassle for those shoulder-high sets that looked fun and were mostly wasted on kooks. The long paddle back to the car was not fun. Still getting over a cold my kids gave me: sore throat and hacking cough, but Covid rapid test negative... yay.

 

[Senor Sopa]

Another nooner at PPP, it was really PPP, @ HH+! Crowd was 20 with more than a handful of usual suspects, 16 of them going right, as was I. No WaveStorms in sight, yay. Everybody out was decent or better surfer. Started off slow for wave count, tide changed a bit and outside swingers started coming through for me. As usual, it's not only about the shredding, it's more about can you go fast enough. Got one great one, stall setup on the third section to back-door dry coverage. Stocked.

Yesterday was bigger, knee was saying "don't do it". I checked PPP at 6:45 am, 60 guys out. Yes, I counted ,I passed.

 

[Mr Doof]

god I miss the SF weirdos. please tell me he was either in full attire or just underwear.

He was wearing sport sandals, like Tevas, black knee length shorts, grey T-shirt, and a blue, black, and fluorescent green windbreaker, like the kind you might imagine a 20-nothing, trainer wearing, French rave going person would have on, kinda looked like Tim Leary when he was 65-70, and with full head of of salt and pepper hair.

As for the surf, another day getting back in the swing of things.

Ribs less sore, still clenching the belly muscles to minimize the compression of said ribs.

Calm air, but smoky. Glassy-ish lumps of waves but less powerful, more infrequent.

Rode the tri fin and its been a while since I paddled out on this board, but it is super noticeable how slower it paddles compared to other fin set ups.

Caught more waves than the days before, fell less. Chest to shoulder high.

Best wave was a on a larger wave that I managed to chase down (versus being in the right place and just needing to get in position and go). Was plenty soft , seeming to be wedge-shaped for 2/3 of it, with the upper 1/3 being the place where you got the energy to move down the line...too far down the face of the wave, you just stalled out. Thruster seems a bit more solid on the bottom, turn more predictable, but at the same time, a little slower...minutely slower. On a wave with power, not even an issue, but on a slow wave like this, might be a hinderance. Lucky for me, it wasn't an issue today, and got in some turns and a bit of a weak-ass lip crack at the end.

Hey, tonight the full moon rise is at 7:14 PM or so in SF, should be amazing to see. Go to a good viewpoint and watch it come up with your favorite pumpkin ale (or not....I'm not really a pumpkin ale fan but I like to try one once a year for special occasions).

 

[Yewstreet]

OBSF sneaky mid-day session. Wind stayed down and shoulder high peaks all over the place. Weird lighting due to the smoke, but really hot. I was burning up in a 4/3. Empty since the forecasted wind that never came. A pod of dolphins swam and jumped through the lineup and I had a left that stood up for 3 turns. Good afternoon.

 

[CutnSnip]

A little walled up but some super good lefts here and there in NOC. Took the day off work and Im glad I did. Rare socal day with no wind - decent swell, and after 10 - barely any crowds. Sat on the same sand bar for 3 hours my first sesh and got a mix of closeouts, and some really fun ones whee if I knew how to ride barrels backside I woulda made it out of a bunch. My technique now is grab rail and hope for the best. lol GX for the win - glad I brought her out and knocked the dust off. Board is so magic.

2nd sesh went north a few streets because I saw a little against the grain right. Basically paddled for 2 hours trying to hold positions and the good rights were elusive. Still got a few fun lefts, no barrel makes but a bunch of solid feeling turns.

Can only sit now and think how epic socal could be w/o that shitty mid morning to rest of the day wind. Everyone would get an uncrowded session in.

 

[teeroi]

I surfed some small waves at the regular yesterday Rode the HP Twin and was surprised it groveled ok. I remembered to paddle really hard to get the board moving before I even stood up.

There’s this guy that surfs every morning. I think his name is James. Wears a full suit, helmet with a shark fin glued on top and rides a McCoy Lazar Zap winged keel fin and all. He doesn’t surf good at all. A little nugget came right to him. I chased it down and forced him to go right then had to put a lot of energy into creating enough drive to get in a couple of turns. Being a dick on a small day is tiring.

There’s swell in the country. Wind has been light all day, plus an east swell. Had to work in town today so I’m missing it. Do t even want to watch the cams.

 

[gbg]