*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
68,691
20,903
113
The Bar
Low/medium rising tide + small, long period swell, crossed up with who knows what equaled absolute junk.

First wave I got was actually pretty decent. Small left section in the closeout that held up, got a nice 3 seconds of glory before it dumped in a foot of water. Would have been nice to eject out the back through the trough of the barrel but it was too shallow and I smacked the side of my face into the sand. Stocked though; it was a nice view.

After that, though, it was mostly backing-off dumpy closeouts with more current than the swell warranted. Still, though, lasted out in the water longer than need4speed. Pretty bad out there; I know he was kinda fed up with the shitty waves and current. Short session made worse that I found 3 different cracks in the rail that were oozing water. Nothing like a hot sunny afternoon for ding repair, I guess.
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
11,990
22,531
113
PNW
Surfed the jetty up North yesterday evening after helping my brother set trusses and sheet a section of the roof on his house. I was pretty beat but my Hayden Loot had arrived and there was some swell showing on the buoy finally so I felt obliged to get after it. It ended up being a bit bigger than I'd expected. Well overhead on the sets and very consistent. Quite a few guys out when I arrived but they mostly filtered in by the time I hit the lineup. The waves were a bit much for the 5-10 but it handled decently and by the end of the session I'd managed to link together some good lefts and rights. I did come in to change fins mid session as the HS1's were feeling a little noodly in the juice. DHD's felt more controlled but I'd probably prefer something more upright for the low rocker tail in this board. Sunset was beautiful and I ended the session on a couple of my better waves. Hoping for more today before the storm front moves in tomorrow. September has been a bit of a bust so far. Hopefully it can make up for it in the last week or so. Lots of swell on tap after this front.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Dawned the regular. Waves were much better than expected. Paddled the Love Seat out and got some fun clean shoulder high waves. Got stuck outside waiting for a set to go in on and ended up getting a closeout and pearled dropping down to proned in. My friend with the camera was laughing. I told her you should’ve got that shot. Haha
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,276
113
San Diego, CA
More fun small waves on the tomo x-wing. Main breaks were way too crowded for the chest-high fat-tide burgers available so I went down to a lesser inside reef around the corner. Sat inside a crew of 5 old-timers on big boards that were missing most waves and picked off tons of little waist-high runners, 2 lefts and about 15 rights. T1+ trailer fins were skatey & fun in the crumbly waves, looser than the quad or thruster (not that it needed it). Mostly wraps and cutbacks to stay close to pocket. Nice to be out in sunny morning, warm water
 
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Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
11,990
22,531
113
PNW
Went back up to the jetty yesterday. Looked a little smaller than the day before but the tide was lower than is ideal so there were some wide closeouts now and then. Took the Loot out again w/ the new Machaderp pivot fins. On the few fun waves I caught it didn't feel too bad. Pretty drivey and loose. Got a few smaller lefts that allowed for some turns and the board felt really positive on the backhand. The waves were definitely on the large side still for this boar though with most sets being well overhead. Some even bigger sets started to come through eventually so I went in to snack and change boards, maybe let the tide fill in a bit more.

After some food and water I took the Insanity out w/ the Super quad set. I know the board/fin details are boring but it's kind of just to help me keep a record of how different combos felt at different waves. This is the second time I've ran this set and it's the best feeling quad set in this board so far. It's not a loose feeling setup but it doesn't track or do anything funky and there's heaps of drive and hold. Got a few really fun outside roll ins that doubled up on the inside and offered up a big open face to carve. Had one of my best turns in a long time when I came into the inside bowl with a ton of speed and committed to the full carve down into the flats since it was closing out anyways. It was a ton of work out there because unless you got lucky after riding one to the inside there was essentially no way to make it back out through the endless inside thumpers. I ended up doing the walk back to the jetty channel many times.

Despite the overall low quality of the waves and the amount of work it took to surf them it was a fun session. The lack of SUP and other low skill fckery that usually abounds at this spot was refreshing. It was essentially just myself an a few friends + a few rando's who seemed a little overwhelmed for the duration of the 4+ hours I surfed. At some point the size grew another notch and after duckdiving something like 20 waves in a row I got the memo and took an insider to the beach.

Beyond sore today but it's storming out so I can be pretty lazy without feeling too guilty.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Dawned the regular. It was a little smaller and bumpier than yesterday. But the waves were fun and the crowd was like a pre-pandemic middle of the week crowd. Paddled the Tokoro HP Twin out. Had the best surf on it since I got it. Used it without the trailer. Worked on positioning and technique and figured out the bottom turn. The board works best if I take off at the peak or a little in front and apply constant pressure on a longer bottom turn. Once I get to speed the board can be cranked into a turn. Only on one wave I was a little too deep and got hung up. Other than that I got some carves and went vert on a couple.

My friend was shooting pics again. She was pretty far inside. I got a long one and tried to do a roundhouse in front of her and my friend Tommy. Mid turn the wave went flat and I couldn’t get on rail and face planted.
All 3 of us were laughing. Tommy told Yuko I want that picture, he was laughing thru that whole turn. Haha.
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,276
113
San Diego, CA
Fun little session at No. 2 reef mid-morning. Bit of annoying crowd of 10-15 dudes, but I was able to catch a bunch of waves, conveyor belt-style for the first 25 min. Majority wanted to go right, so I resorted to the left- which is a steeper drop but shorter and not as much fun without the rock obstacle course through the inside reef on the right. After the nonstop action at the beginning, there was a long lull so I sat outside on the left peak and got the next set wave in. Xwing with the old futures Machado tri again making all the drops, around sections, and smacking the lip like it owed us money. Really trying to surf it consistently for a while to get a good feel for the board, even though I have a couple other newish ones I want to ride too. Helps that it’s been so fun, does exactly what I want, and I have zero issues with it. Hot streak with my last few boards rolls on! Stocked since they are all pretty different designs too.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
68,691
20,903
113
The Bar
June Gloom? September Remembers!

Super foggy this morning, took an hour or so to lift. Waves were really bad at first but Lowell swell started filtering in, head high sets or so, maybe a couple that were a foot overhead or so but pretty weak overall. Likely because tide was just a little too high and a lot of waves were not hitting the outer part of the sandbar and instead backing off and dumping, semi-hollow, lot of chandeliering and pinching waves. South wind hitting pretty hard too after a while. Got about a dozen waves of varying degrees of frustration, especially as current took me towards crappy rip-torn sandbars. Made the call to get out and jog up-current a bit which paid off as got 3 waves in first 5 minutes. Had a larger set wave that held up enough to hack the sh!t out of but guy paddling out decided to not paddle to the inside, meaning I had to go around him, making it too late to hit the closeout section coming at me from other side. Chewed him out a little but not too bad as he knew he screwed up and apologized profusely. Got a couple more as swept again down, ended sesh by backdooring a barrel that actually held open with relatively clean exit and then proned to the sand.

My lazy-mans ding repair of having my son sand the rail cracks down and covering them with Berenstein Bears stickers sort of paid off. 2 out of 4 staying dry wasn't bad. My son was very suspicious about my ding repair methods, though. I think I owe him stickers now. :roflmao:
 
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Havoc

Phil Edwards status
May 23, 2016
7,682
12,216
113
in da hood next to paradise
2.5 hrs of frustration followed by 10 minutes of magic. There were good waves just couldn't get into position. Got out after 2.5 hrs and switched to the 5'11 stamps giggle box thruster and in 10 minutes time got 4 chest high nuggets back to back. I could do no wrong. glassy peaky nuggets where I would glide in and then the wave would hit the inside and get speedy. one memorable fs carve where I bottom turned and then leaned into it hard and got to watch and hear my own spray. last wave was as good of a chest high wave as i could have gotten. glassy peaky goodness with a roll in then one pump to come around the first section to a hard reo bash, another pump to the inside and then another hard bash. Two smashes in a row. fuggg! got a hoot from the pack on the last one so went in. In 10 minutes I did some of the best surfing I have done in months. sometimes you get those little magic moments. stocked!
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,276
113
San Diego, CA
Nice. A couple good ones is all it takes to keep us hooked. What boar were you riding that could catch anything for 2 hrs?!?

Not much action down south today. Pretty full tide when I got out around midday to a little local left reef around the bend. Beautiful conditions, clear water. Knee-high mush burgers after the steep drop, but only 3 others out: old-timer on a funboard (just happy to be out there; gave him a couple waves and chatted), blocky guy with porn ‘stache on a red lightning bolt fish (surfing pretty stylish for his build), annoying twenty-something on a softy (who fell every wave trying to surf it backwards -for that finless feel- and I really should’ve just gone on a couple waves when he was deeper). Maybe 10 little lefts in 30-40 min: make the drop, scoot around the first crumbly section, then either try to milk it to the inside or one slash before it fizzled out. Figured it wouldn't really matter In small waves, so I tried the Duffy “nubsters as quad rears” with Akila twins. Only a couple chances for big turns, but definitely felt it slip- a little too slidey in the xwing’s wide tail.
 
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teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Paddled the Tokoro HP Twin out in the dark. Missed a set and ended up waiting for another almost til first light. Waves were clean, smaller than yesterday, shoulder to head high, and the crowd wasn’t too bad. Mostly the regular dawn patrol crew. Except there was one guy on a bigger shortboard that kept trying to back paddle the crew. I think the only wave he got to himself was a closeout I pulled back from. He ended up dropping in on John on a right and when John sounded him he talked back and John gave him an open handed smack. The donkey still wouldn’t go in, instead of saying sorry he insisted that John told him to go. I told him none of us know you we aren’t ever telling you to go. I went in right after the altercation.

Yuko sent me some pics from yesterday. I think her auto focus has been a little short. Kinda figured out how to surf the HP Twin. The board is fast, loose and fun. Makes me feel stupid it took a few sessions. I’m thinking of ordering a single fin with channels to confuse me even more.

6AECF124-4B59-45AF-8E0E-013D7B97D0D5.jpeg
Jeannie Chesser.

A9DB95D9-D83D-4E31-A0FC-30977DE1D6DE.jpeg

93CE0D45-83C5-4EA8-BB4E-D7195677417D.jpeg
That tricky twin fin bottom turn. Haha
 

20W-50 and blood

Duke status
Feb 4, 2004
24,949
4,032
113
SOCAL
Visit site
June Gloom? September Remembers!


My lazy-mans ding repair of having my son sand the rail cracks down and covering them with Berenstein Bears stickers sort of paid off. 2 out of 4 staying dry wasn't bad. My son was very suspicious about my ding repair methods, though. I think I owe him stickers now. :roflmao:
cheers, brother. couldnt happen to abetter fuggin pirat.e
 
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CutnSnip

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2018
5,737
6,045
113
Probably dropping in on you, California
Chest ish high closeouts in SLA with a bagiliion of my closest friends. Got one good vision on a right that I thought I was coming out of, but alas the exit was elusive. Otherwise got dropped in on every wave and watched all the regulars get dropped in on left and right so I called it after about 45 minutes.

I actually afraid of what the crowds will look like tomorrow round these parts and wondering if the beginners will sit it out or attempt to ruin everyone else's experience.