ya the summer sufers and wavestorn idiots never left. nobody is working so endless summer for the kooks.
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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Hate that sh!t. Surfline hype. My usual at least has a vicious longshore current that accelerates the further north it takes you; keeps the crowd generally separated. But I expect a shitshow at dawn patrol tomorrow (with fog and south winds). 2nd shift tomorrow sounds like the call.
Well looked glassy and small without any real shape. I’m like fck it, i’ll go paddle at least, before the wind messes it up!
15 minutes in, waves just started coming in. Nice chest to shoulder high peaks (grinderX)
Im like holy sht, i pulled a Curren...
15 minutes in, waves just started coming in. Nice chest to shoulder high peaks (grinderX)
Im like holy sht, i pulled a Curren...
The hook at dawn, paddled out in the dark and saw 7 people already out with glowsticks around their necks haha.
Managed to get one notable one. Head high + in the pre dawn light that stood up all the way. Kicked out and couldnt believe how far I'd gone (100M+ at least). After that one a bunch of smaller ones that were fun, but nothing to write home about.
Only regret was that I only brought a 6'3 step up thinking it was going to bigger. Probably would have been insanely fun on my fish.
Managed to get one notable one. Head high + in the pre dawn light that stood up all the way. Kicked out and couldnt believe how far I'd gone (100M+ at least). After that one a bunch of smaller ones that were fun, but nothing to write home about.
Only regret was that I only brought a 6'3 step up thinking it was going to bigger. Probably would have been insanely fun on my fish.
it was strange yesterday to see so much energy in the ocean. i'm unable remember the last time we had a 15@15 Northwest swell in September.
we surfed our most protected spot in the morning fog. the water was murky and there was residual bump in the ocean from the night's storm that never fully disappeared despite the calm winds. along the beach were piles of kelp washed in by the swell. there were many dead jellyfish drifting around the lineup along with errant whips of bull kelp. feathers, slicks of oily unidentified surface scum, bits of wood of varying size all swirled around. the waves were only about head high where I was surfing, maybe a little bigger on the sets. there was plenty of power though and some of the inside double ups were strait up treacherous. the session was mostly sifting through closeouts for the occasional corner. maybe 20% of the waves I caught actually allowed for more than a pump or two before detonating on the inside. rode the Hayden Loot w/ NVS Peregrine L fins and it felt super good. felt like I was getting in early and connecting sections, fitting in turns where I could. this spot, in conditions like these is always really challenging for me so any time I do decently well I consider it a win.
midway through the session my buddy pulled into a closeout and when he came up his leash had wrapped around his board and cinched down so hard it cut through the rail all the way to the stringer just above the fins. it was one of those newer fcs braided leashes. not sure if that was a factor or not but it seems possible.
we surfed our most protected spot in the morning fog. the water was murky and there was residual bump in the ocean from the night's storm that never fully disappeared despite the calm winds. along the beach were piles of kelp washed in by the swell. there were many dead jellyfish drifting around the lineup along with errant whips of bull kelp. feathers, slicks of oily unidentified surface scum, bits of wood of varying size all swirled around. the waves were only about head high where I was surfing, maybe a little bigger on the sets. there was plenty of power though and some of the inside double ups were strait up treacherous. the session was mostly sifting through closeouts for the occasional corner. maybe 20% of the waves I caught actually allowed for more than a pump or two before detonating on the inside. rode the Hayden Loot w/ NVS Peregrine L fins and it felt super good. felt like I was getting in early and connecting sections, fitting in turns where I could. this spot, in conditions like these is always really challenging for me so any time I do decently well I consider it a win.
midway through the session my buddy pulled into a closeout and when he came up his leash had wrapped around his board and cinched down so hard it cut through the rail all the way to the stringer just above the fins. it was one of those newer fcs braided leashes. not sure if that was a factor or not but it seems possible.
Paddled out in the dark on the HP Twin. Got a warm up wave and it got crowded pretty fast before first light. Saw a set and I started paddling for it toward the channel. A guy who has recently been coming out paddled across my line so I had to wait before I paddled in and stood up. I made the drop but the wave ran away. If it was one of my friends I would’ve said something rude but I would’ve let it go. But this guy is about my age and should know better. So I told him you messed up my line into that wave. He said he thought he was clear. Wrong answer. Told him had to wait for him to paddle across and it made me late and deep. He said it’s dark he couldn’t see. Wrong answer again. Raising my voice I told him I could see the wave and that you were in the way. He finally says sorry. Then he tries to talk me up. I’m irritated by now and tell him just stop I don’t know you and don’t want to talk to you. I don’t know what’s so hard about paddling behind someone to get out of the way. The duck dive would’ve been easy and it would’ve put him deepest if there was another wave.
Waves were kind of meh with a few nuggets. Mostly just talking crap to my friends and watching Gregg paddle for every little bump on his cheater board. Waited way too long to get a wave in. But scored the best one up to that point. A little overhead and doubling up. Should’ve tried to knife in and get barreled but wasn’t sure if it was going to stay open. So made the drop, bottom turned to top turn and got a carve in a steep section. Tapped the whitewater closeout and proned in. Hope that wave was a fore runner of the swell forecasted.
Waves were kind of meh with a few nuggets. Mostly just talking crap to my friends and watching Gregg paddle for every little bump on his cheater board. Waited way too long to get a wave in. But scored the best one up to that point. A little overhead and doubling up. Should’ve tried to knife in and get barreled but wasn’t sure if it was going to stay open. So made the drop, bottom turned to top turn and got a carve in a steep section. Tapped the whitewater closeout and proned in. Hope that wave was a fore runner of the swell forecasted.
Went down to the local man made structure area (PPP). The good ones were overhead. 10 peeps out max spread between the left and the right, only 2 others were going right. NW swell? nope, surprising SW peaks. Two different 20 minute flurries came through in my just over an hour session, sweeeet. Pretty much nary a closeout, slight chop, just enough to make it difficult to shred, but not enough to change the shape. It's really nice to catch waves were you're already on rail from the moment your hands touch the deck. I think I showed my fins on one top turn. The chop had me out of sync a bit. As another poster mentioned, second shift is prolly the call for Saturday am. After almost three months back, I'm starting to feel mucho mas competent.
It went from small to really good sized in a very short amount of time.
On top of that, it's been about 4ft or less since the July 4th swell.
Naturally the wife's at work, I'm watching the kids, and I can't surf.
With my luck, I'm betting this is the biggest swell of the fall/winter season
On top of that, it's been about 4ft or less since the July 4th swell.
Naturally the wife's at work, I'm watching the kids, and I can't surf.
With my luck, I'm betting this is the biggest swell of the fall/winter season
Probs drive down to NOC tomorrow a.m., let the current do its own crowd control but now that you mentioned south winds d.p. might be better round these parts.
I need to move to the beach already. Im the only one I know doing more driving during corona virus.
Same. Was all excited to surf this morning with the forecasted 5' swell (finally). Instead, my 2 year old woke up with a slight fever and runny nose. Pretty sure it's just a little cold but have to be cautious now so we kept the 3.5 year old home from nursery school, and I was stuck watching the kids all the morning while wife worked, then had an afternoon work emergency. Sigh. Hope I'll get a chance to sneak out tomorrow!It went from small to really good sized in a very short amount of time.
On top of that, it's been about 4ft or less since the July 4th swell.
Naturally the wife's at work, I'm watching the kids, and I can't surf.
With my luck, I'm betting this is the biggest swell of the fall/winter season
@jkb are you in NC SD or SC now?
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Thank you kindly for your sacrifices to the surf gods.
I somehow had the local to myself. Wonky and had to wait but fun when the good ones came.
Banjo with tim’s keels was fun but will likely be trying the Hobies tomorrow.
I somehow had the local to myself. Wonky and had to wait but fun when the good ones came.
Banjo with tim’s keels was fun but will likely be trying the Hobies tomorrow.
Finally some juicy waves near home with a manageable crowd.Barely any foamies, a few people that looked out of sorts but nothing like the last few months. Air was a bit chilly but the water was nice.
Head highish on the sets, lots of closeouts but the second and third waves of the set would be nice peaks with some hollow, squarish rights over a shallow bar. Took out the Flare, could've used the Grinder X tbh on some of the steeper drops and was thinking the whole time the mid-length woulda been super fun. Made one legit barrel that i had to pump and race the whole time for, had some hoots from the pack which felt great and had a left that stretched out like a point break and allowed for multiple bash's on the backside, the last one on the inside closeout section felt pretty vert and I got the fins out just barely hanging on but managed to ride out in the foam. Couple of other fun ones in between, good vibes in the water - all in all good first NW'er of the season. Hope some of you guys scored today.
Head highish on the sets, lots of closeouts but the second and third waves of the set would be nice peaks with some hollow, squarish rights over a shallow bar. Took out the Flare, could've used the Grinder X tbh on some of the steeper drops and was thinking the whole time the mid-length woulda been super fun. Made one legit barrel that i had to pump and race the whole time for, had some hoots from the pack which felt great and had a left that stretched out like a point break and allowed for multiple bash's on the backside, the last one on the inside closeout section felt pretty vert and I got the fins out just barely hanging on but managed to ride out in the foam. Couple of other fun ones in between, good vibes in the water - all in all good first NW'er of the season. Hope some of you guys scored today.
I busted out and went out of town for surf today. I traveled two towns south to a river mouth I've actually never surfed. Driving down, all the name spots in town were PACKED with cars, this was 7:30 am. Caught lots of good rights, I don't think any were less than overhead. I had no idea I was in the middle of a local crew (that's how mellow these guys were), until one latecomer showed and was blabbin at all the guys. I sized him up as better than the others and a wave count threat. I decided he wasn't going to get the very first wave off me. I repositioned and was rewarded with a set in less than a minute. New guy gets the next one, paddling back out, he asks how mine was, I said great. I confessed to him that I felt bad that I preemptively decided to counter him. He laughed and says I look familiar, I told him where I usually surf for past few decades, we agreed we've seen each other. Another guy paddles out, looks at me, says "I don't think I've ever seen you anywhere else but Cardiff". A decade ago, we used to catch lots of the same swells there. The tide turned, or swell was dust, I dunno, but the waves went lullaby at the end.
Coming in, absolute madness of volume at the dog beach. Two bull mastiffs broke their leash and their "playing" was crushing a pipsqueak size mutt. Not a mask in site. The volleyballers were already going strong when I showed, and were in full force when I left. Driving home, I cruised through downtown Encinitas, I couldn't believe all the people waiting in lines to eat at tables in the street. Again, no masks in site. I drove all the way up to compare with PPP, it was a lot smaller.
As I write (1:30pm), I just checked the cam, PPP is glassy, tide is low at 2:00pm, I'm going for a round two, I need to muster up the energy that Aruka possesses. Got a party to go to tonight, it's a great day, happy fall!
Coming in, absolute madness of volume at the dog beach. Two bull mastiffs broke their leash and their "playing" was crushing a pipsqueak size mutt. Not a mask in site. The volleyballers were already going strong when I showed, and were in full force when I left. Driving home, I cruised through downtown Encinitas, I couldn't believe all the people waiting in lines to eat at tables in the street. Again, no masks in site. I drove all the way up to compare with PPP, it was a lot smaller.
As I write (1:30pm), I just checked the cam, PPP is glassy, tide is low at 2:00pm, I'm going for a round two, I need to muster up the energy that Aruka possesses. Got a party to go to tonight, it's a great day, happy fall!
one of those sessions you get all your best waves in the first 20 min. crowded as fook at first but the current did its thing.
went with the trusty thrusty GX and enjoyed squaring off the bottom and smacking the lip for a change.
went with the trusty thrusty GX and enjoyed squaring off the bottom and smacking the lip for a change.
Surfed same spot this am. Super fun.
Got a late start this morning and was worried about the tide so I ventured to the land of close outs, despite knowing it would be overrun with noobs on soft tops. The hope was that the dropping tide would slow things down and give the corners a chance. Other than the Wade Carmichael lookalike stubbornly sitting in the wrong spot on the inside for two sets and some turd who damn near ran me over going the wrong way, it was actually pretty fun.
Mostly just racing down the line, but covered some distance on quite a few, including a close out right barrel. Got a couple turns on on my last wave and I knew it probably wouldn’t get any better. Also got a good chuckle when I dropped in on some John b wannabe who was taking turns with his buddy dropping in on each other.
I came across an old set of creatures Mitch coleburn fins and measured them up against the am1 and dane’s. Sides are closer to the Danes and center is a little shorter base than the am1, but a little taller. They felt really good in the blindspot.
Mostly just racing down the line, but covered some distance on quite a few, including a close out right barrel. Got a couple turns on on my last wave and I knew it probably wouldn’t get any better. Also got a good chuckle when I dropped in on some John b wannabe who was taking turns with his buddy dropping in on each other.
I came across an old set of creatures Mitch coleburn fins and measured them up against the am1 and dane’s. Sides are closer to the Danes and center is a little shorter base than the am1, but a little taller. They felt really good in the blindspot.
waist to chest(at best) combo picks best early but managed a couple turns
Good time with 20w and feral seppo
waters warm
Good time with 20w and feral seppo
waters warm