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*** Official 2019 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Another fun session at the same spot a couple of days earlier, albeit smaller. Left the Burch in the car and took out the GMM2 instead. It was the right call for the drop in size. That sea lion was still there decomposing at the high tide line.
2 guys out in the water when I paddled out. They both left after a half hour and then I was suddenly out there alone. A little unnerving at first but the peaks were consistent, so I just kept busy. Foreign to surf a fun right-hand reef break alone mid-morning on a Saturday, but I'll take it anytime.
2 guys out in the water when I paddled out. They both left after a half hour and then I was suddenly out there alone. A little unnerving at first but the peaks were consistent, so I just kept busy. Foreign to surf a fun right-hand reef break alone mid-morning on a Saturday, but I'll take it anytime.
hey jkb, looks like you made it out here - where’d you land? Sounds like we’ve been surfing the same spot.
spent this weekend on a getaway to the central coast with my lady. Surfed chest high glassy peaks Friday/Saturday/Sunday, with Friday being the best. She took some pics. So here they are.
As always, landmarks cropped to protect the innocent.
spent this weekend on a getaway to the central coast with my lady. Surfed chest high glassy peaks Friday/Saturday/Sunday, with Friday being the best. She took some pics. So here they are.
As always, landmarks cropped to protect the innocent.
Family trip to the go-to northern Baja family neighborhood and the wife and kids all
joined me for multiple sessions in micro, mushy rights. Pushing them each into waves
was epic and got a couple uncrowded sessions in myself. Stoked.
joined me for multiple sessions in micro, mushy rights. Pushing them each into waves
was epic and got a couple uncrowded sessions in myself. Stoked.
Yeah, made it up here and landed a place on the westside. Stocked to be here!
Awesome pics! Those waves look fun!
Dawned Bowls. Sorry not sorry for naming my spot that’s on a 24 hour a day Surfline cam. Haha
It was small, the out of season south hasn’t filled in yet. But the waves were nice. Kinda soft. Got 3 and went in.
I took out my regular 5’10 stubby performance board. Ordered some L NVS g10 AM fins and tried them out. Hard to tell if it makes any difference from my PC FSC2 AM fins but there wasn’t any decline in performance. Small soft waves my knee hurts from having to push so hard to get the speed for turns. There’s so much to still learn when the waves are like that.
I understand why some of you guys have a dozen different gravel boards. Lucky for us here there always decent waves right around the corner.
It was small, the out of season south hasn’t filled in yet. But the waves were nice. Kinda soft. Got 3 and went in.
I took out my regular 5’10 stubby performance board. Ordered some L NVS g10 AM fins and tried them out. Hard to tell if it makes any difference from my PC FSC2 AM fins but there wasn’t any decline in performance. Small soft waves my knee hurts from having to push so hard to get the speed for turns. There’s so much to still learn when the waves are like that.
I understand why some of you guys have a dozen different gravel boards. Lucky for us here there always decent waves right around the corner.
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Morning session at the same spot I've been going the last few surfs. It's been pretty flat up here, so that dead sea lion is still sitting at the high tide line and is about 25% decomposed (and eaten by birds) now.
I was the first one out at this particular peak, although there were a couple of other guys sitting at the next peak over. Right when my feet hit the water a harbor seal popped up about 10 yards away in shallow water. As I kept walking out, he was eyeballing the sh*t out of me and swimming back and forth directly in front of me. At one point, he popped up a foot in front of my board and slapped the nose.......then disappeared and I didn't see him again. I guess the locals can get a bit physical up here from time to time.
Caught some fun rights with some push right at the peak, but the shoulders would mush out pretty quick. Got some fun drops and connected with a few that had enough shoulder to make it into the inside race track. GMM2 was the perfect board for the day. A few more people filtered in and the crowd grew to a grand total of 4.
Saw an otter wrap himself up in seaweed 20 yards outside of me and enjoy his breakfast. Had a couple of moon jellies float by as I was waiting for a set. All and all, a very nice morning!
I was the first one out at this particular peak, although there were a couple of other guys sitting at the next peak over. Right when my feet hit the water a harbor seal popped up about 10 yards away in shallow water. As I kept walking out, he was eyeballing the sh*t out of me and swimming back and forth directly in front of me. At one point, he popped up a foot in front of my board and slapped the nose.......then disappeared and I didn't see him again. I guess the locals can get a bit physical up here from time to time.
Caught some fun rights with some push right at the peak, but the shoulders would mush out pretty quick. Got some fun drops and connected with a few that had enough shoulder to make it into the inside race track. GMM2 was the perfect board for the day. A few more people filtered in and the crowd grew to a grand total of 4.
Saw an otter wrap himself up in seaweed 20 yards outside of me and enjoy his breakfast. Had a couple of moon jellies float by as I was waiting for a set. All and all, a very nice morning!
Last night was really fun. Rip bowl lefts just South of town. Bout chest high and fast. Rusty Shiv felt great. Got a few fun long ones with multiple turns which around here is a rarity. Wish I'd had another hour of light but as soon as the sun dipped into the fog bank it darkened rapidly.
are you in cali @jkb? Sounds like a fun session.Morning session at the same spot I've been going the last few surfs. It's been pretty flat up here, so that dead sea lion is still sitting at the high tide line and is about 25% decomposed (and eaten by birds) now.
I was the first one out at this particular peak, although there were a couple of other guys sitting at the next peak over. Right when my feet hit the water a harbor seal popped up about 10 yards away in shallow water. As I kept walking out, he was eyeballing the sh*t out of me and swimming back and forth directly in front of me. At one point, he popped up a foot in front of my board and slapped the nose.......then disappeared and I didn't see him again. I guess the locals can get a bit physical up here from time to time.
Caught some fun rights with some push right at the peak, but the shoulders would mush out pretty quick. Got some fun drops and connected with a few that had enough shoulder to make it into the inside race track. GMM2 was the perfect board for the day. A few more people filtered in and the crowd grew to a grand total of 4.
Saw an otter wrap himself up in seaweed 20 yards outside of me and enjoy his breakfast. Had a couple of moon jellies float by as I was waiting for a set. All and all, a very nice morning!
Pretty tiny with mostly awful shape at dawn, but got two that lined up a bit on the Slot Noserider. So happy to be able to surf before work again!
Dawned Bowls. It was really good. Couple feet overhead, glassy, not too crowded at first, 4-5 waves in a set, swell from different directions but not crossed up. All signs pointing to a good session.
But I sucked. Pulled in when I should’ve went around and smashed it. Smashed it when I should’ve pulled in. Each time I fell I yelled I suck. Kainoa McGee told me watch out you’re going to start believing that. So I tried yelling I don’t suck when I paddled into a set. It worked for the first turn then I poked the second.
When you’re hot youre hot when you’re not you’re not. Haha.
Shake it off and try again tomorrow.
But I sucked. Pulled in when I should’ve went around and smashed it. Smashed it when I should’ve pulled in. Each time I fell I yelled I suck. Kainoa McGee told me watch out you’re going to start believing that. So I tried yelling I don’t suck when I paddled into a set. It worked for the first turn then I poked the second.
When you’re hot youre hot when you’re not you’re not. Haha.
Shake it off and try again tomorrow.
I plan on it. Looks like there are some beautiful trails around here!
The only hitch is I have a 2 year old and a 4 year old and I know they're going to want to go with me. Do they make those kids bike trailers off-road worthy? Would it be frowned upon if I went over some sweet jumps with them in tow?
Last night was really fun. Low tide had the left peaks standing up early and allowing for easy behind-the-peak take offs and multiple turns before the inside closeout. Surfed alone and was wishing I'd had another hour of light.
This morning was bigger and flooded with the high tide. It looked backwashy and difficult but my buddy talked me into paddling. It was about what I expected. Air drops into mostly closeouts. Still, got a couple views and one snap. I felt okay about my performance since even my goofy footed barrel hound friend was struggling to get a good one. Cut the session short in the hope that it will be mo betta later. Absolutely stunning morning.
This morning was bigger and flooded with the high tide. It looked backwashy and difficult but my buddy talked me into paddling. It was about what I expected. Air drops into mostly closeouts. Still, got a couple views and one snap. I felt okay about my performance since even my goofy footed barrel hound friend was struggling to get a good one. Cut the session short in the hope that it will be mo betta later. Absolutely stunning morning.
The Apocalypse has officially arrived, when:
Mid November OBSF
a dozen beginners on foamies sitting in splash shot around me
2 groups of 10 or so beginners to the North are bobbing on the inside trying to walk out.
a surf school(first one I have ever seen here) of 50 or so somethings are stretching and pop-up practicing on the beach to the south of me.
Mid November OBSF
a dozen beginners on foamies sitting in splash shot around me
2 groups of 10 or so beginners to the North are bobbing on the inside trying to walk out.
a surf school(first one I have ever seen here) of 50 or so somethings are stretching and pop-up practicing on the beach to the south of me.