Surfed a non-log for the first time in a few weeks with a good friend on his birthday, nothing special but got a few runners that allowed some swoops. Looking forward to more swell this weekend.
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*** Official 2019 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
7 ft at 17 seconds says the buoy here.
Caught three before work.
Caught three before work.
Couple novelty beach break waves on the high tide
nice to surf alone.....
for about 30 minutes
5-10 MushBuster twinzer
nice to surf alone.....
for about 30 minutes
5-10 MushBuster twinzer
This one...the 7 footer
I am in need of reminding how to ride bigger waves with bigger boards. Will need some more surfs to get back into the swing of things.
Haven't been in the water much lately. Annual camping trip to central coast produced sh!t waves. Traveling for work all week and had a tweaked neck and back. Nice to get in the water this morning to rinse it all off but it was really closed out and super crowded. GX felt like crap but I think it was the waves. Weird how the water is within a couple of degrees of central ca here in SD
Dawned my regular NS spot. No camera there so no naming it. It was fun. A few feet overhead glassy to light wind. Mellow crowd, I knew most of them. It was a little west and high tide for it to be epic. But the waves were big enough to make it fun.
First wave got a late drop, bottom turn, top turn swoops. Was looking for a lip to smash most of the session. Mostly carves and roundhouse cutties. Waited for ever to get a set to go in. The guys outside passed to I whipped late. Tried to beat the lip down but kinda free fell to mid face and went over the handle bars. Went tumbling with my board. Could’ve been worse. Popped up by a dread locked dude. I asked him if he was ok, worried my board might’ve hit him. He looked at me funny. Old man just got donuts and he’s asking me if I’m alright. Haha.
First wave got a late drop, bottom turn, top turn swoops. Was looking for a lip to smash most of the session. Mostly carves and roundhouse cutties. Waited for ever to get a set to go in. The guys outside passed to I whipped late. Tried to beat the lip down but kinda free fell to mid face and went over the handle bars. Went tumbling with my board. Could’ve been worse. Popped up by a dread locked dude. I asked him if he was ok, worried my board might’ve hit him. He looked at me funny. Old man just got donuts and he’s asking me if I’m alright. Haha.
Soft but clean longboard bday waves with a pretty thick crowd mid morning. Had fun with a few friends for a while, then breakfast burritos and beers to follow. Epic morning!
9.7 feet at 15 seconds on a 5+ high tide according to Surflie. Second time on the 7'6, which paddles insanely well and felt like the right amount of board. Ate too much before the session and wanted to puke by the time I made it into the lineup. Had to duck dive probably 7 times and ditch the board twice before I got there. Perhaps my cardio isn't quite where it should be for waves like this. Took about an hour and 15 to catch three waves. Got tossed by some ferrel chop taking off on the first. Luckily I penetrated and didn't go over the falls. Next two were clean drops into a fast inside bowl section, one left and one right. Board felt really tippy. Need to ride this thing in smaller waves to get a better feel for it. Back tomorrow on the dropping swell.
super hung over this morning. Took the fuse out to look for the tweeners that weren't closed out. Got a few but I almost puked a couple of times... that bad
6-10 feet with light offshores but pretty mushy and inconsistent by the time I go out due to the rising tide and dropping swell. Back on the 7'6, this time as a thruster instead of the mix-matched quad setup I rode the day before in larger surf. Thruster felt really good. Had tons of control and maneuverability. Sat way out back to catch the sets and avoid getting caught inside, and snagged some solid ones, but only one that really lined up and connected to the inside bar. The waves that broke a little further in seemed best. Now that I'm gaining confidence in bigger waves, I'm going to be a little more aggressive with my positioning.
People don't work on Mondays anymore?
I surfed at 10am and it was a clusterfuck like it was a Saturday or something. Target was awful too
I surfed at 10am and it was a clusterfuck like it was a Saturday or something. Target was awful too
Pretty fun. Out for 3.5hrs, 2 different boards today. Got better as tide filled in.
Get some b4 the rains come.
