Haven’t surfed in a couple weeks cause the conditions and for the last week caught a cold. Today it felt like I could go in the water and not get more sick. Plus let the salt water help me blow all the boogers out.
Surfed Bowls. There’s a little swell and was hoping for the west wrap from the not Eddie swell. It was waist high but high tide soft. Rode my Moonfish. It was fun heckling all the dawn patrol crew. Actually got a fun reo on a quick close out and on a runner got a roundhouse to backside off the lip rebound. The Moonfish works great for those. Paddled over to Rockpiles to wish that crew Happy New Year and got a couple deep ones. One of the regulars saw me get two turns on a wave and asked what board I was riding. Said it looked good. Been stoke-Ed on it.
The west wrap hasn’t really started so hopefully tomorrow morning will be better. North and West gonna be too big for next couple days.
paddled four quick miles, for about 3/4 of a mile i accepted an invite from a pod of playful and friendlies to cruise with them. MIND blowing. just F*()#&*(# mindblowing, every damn time. Rode three waves on the boat as i was coming in. i'm getting pretty decent at the fat mexican gumby bendy back and drag, sit up, sit forward, bendy back, drag the outside arm type of prone surf thing.
Back in Northern California, thank god. Dumping, overhead barrels and beatdowns on Monday morning. Three overlapping short-medium period swells, so the paddle was a decent workout. The two best sandbars were tight quarters. Still plenty of waves to go around. Didn't get the gaping barrel I was looking for but surfed well in real waves. Good warmup for the XL swell incoming.
Last surf of the year. Waist to chest high fatties on the bonzer. Surfed a funky bar at first that was sort of frustrating then moved to a better one own the beach for a few fun rights. Happy New Year.
Just got back from Baja last night. Didn't die but had a few close calls (only half joking). Surfed a lot down there and really got pretty lucky with waves. Only a few days out of the month where I didn't surf and had many days where I spend 4-6+ hrs in the water. A couple sessions in particular stood out as some of my best of the year. Even the small days were fun thanks to the Stretch longboard I got from JDJ (with the help of surfboard facilitator Retodd). Rode mostly twins (Stamps Banjo 5-7, Rusty 6-3 and Album Townsend 6-8) and was really glad to have them. Driving into town yesterday evening I couldn't believe how massive the surf was, just a crazy contrast to the mostly serene waters of Baja. Feels like I'm coming down with a cold but might still go for a surf this evening since it looks like we are in for some days of stormy weather.
This new year celebration crap is all marketing. As if all your problems or good luck will end or start a minute after midnight. With that said I went for a last day of 2019. Haha
It was small and high tide and I stayed out longer than I thought. But I had fun. Surfed Ala Moana Rockpiles. Mostly just traded waves with a couple of the regulars and shot the sh*t. Got a couple of fun runners and managed a snap or two. Was mostly make sections and one turn.
This group of college kids came out and sat right on top of us. 3 girls and 3 guys. I was irritated at first but they were harmless. But they were kinda in my spot. Jabbering away. First little bump came I paddled really hard out and to the right. The girls eyes got big cause they weren’t paying attention and they thought they were going to get mowed.mowed on a waist high wave. After that they stayed way outside. Too far to get in the way. Problem solved. Haha
Decided to test myself and ride a 6'1" today. It got bigger as I was out and I was wishing for a bigger board by the end of the day. Made a tippie toe drop on my wave in. Barely didn't pearl, pulled around the section and sat in the pocket all the way in.
First wave I locked into a long pocket ride with two small lips thrown over my head. Nothing like the waves I saw other people getting though.
Waist high semi-clean waves with light offshores at the local. Waves were a little gutless but got to connect a few and put up some spray for the new year. Rode the Moonbeam with the Macho 2+1 which really feels all time for that board. Happy new year all!
Weird swell and sand in my zone. First spot was small and closed out. Other zones were big, overpowered and closed out. Settled on a kook reef/beach for mostly crap but had a left that stood up with three quality hacks on the driver. Rushed in for a conference call that was cancelled while I was in the water.
after deciding the kooks have won, any shiitty reef will be packed, i went beachbreak today
i really prefer these inbetween days to swell days, it was small but nobody was out, and it was good enough..
i was alone. as it should be every time. tomorrow will be hell again
Waist high with ripping current. Spent all my energy trying to stay in position on a board that paddles badly. Blew it. Was way better down the beach and I was already gassed. But it beats sitting at home