First session back in the PNW after a glorious ten days in Kauai. Surfing in a 5/4 isn't even the same sport.
Got some fun steep drops but oddly weak walls. Uneven session. Some very inquisitive harbor seals spooked me at one point. Called it after 2 hours and just watched the waves from the beach for a while. Haven't done that in years. The Pacific coast of the US is something to behold.
Small day at the local with just a few friends out. Couple of decent turns but the swell was dwindling. There was another spot that was bigger but the wind was hitting it onshore and had a warble that didn't look fun to navigate. Forecast looks better there tomorrow
Wasn’t supposed to surf yesterday cause we were supposed to be gone but my son got the quick stomach bug the night before. Checked at dawn and it was swampy and kind of junky. Went back home then checked at 8:30 again and it had cleaned up nicely. Fun waist to chest high wedges on the gx and got a ton of
Waves in a short amount of time. Bigger infrequent sets would mow pretty
Good and if you caught a corner would offer a nice power turn combo or two. Wind became howling offshore for a bit then calmed back down. Weird swell but super fun waves for awhile in the pouring rain. My son getting sick was a blessing in disguise.
I'm in North County, SD for the Christmas, so blown out, crumbly, and weak. Surfed a mediocre reef break Tuesday and was stoked to find a couple of waves with enough power to propel my large body through some weak snaps and roundhouse cutbacks. Meanwhile, all around me 80-pound groms were blowing their fins out and flying through the air like monkeys. SoCal is a trip, man. I haven't seen a child in the water in months, and suddenly it's like I paddled into the middle of a NSSA contest.
Surfed a La Jolla beachbreak today. Head high to overhead range but very strange from the SW windswell pushing in and not nearly as powerful as it should have been. I got a couple that wanted to barrel but just couldn't get it done. Pulled up into one in the rip and tried to sneak under the lip, got knocked off, and then the board got thrown over the falls after me and clocked me full in the back of the head with the fins. A little bruising, no blood.
TLDR to this report - not a lot to see here, skip to the next posters report
On holiday in Thailand and arrived with 19 KG of baggage which consists of a suitcase with 7 3/4" skateboard with 53mm rock hard Bones wheels (in case anyone is wondering skateboards are measured by width, with the length being of less interest/importance), one surfboard in lightly padded bag, some Christmas/New years presents and sundry items.
Had 3 plays on the skateboard in Bangkok, but left that in my parents in law's place while I go on a 10 day excursion on the east facing gulf of Thailand with my wife.
The trip is designed to maximise the opportunities for surf, hence the choice of coast to get windswell from the monsoon winds which travels east this time of year. Although I am considering any surf to be had as a bonus and not necessity. 2019 has been a good surfing year for me back in Oz. Arrived in Sichon the day after a shoulder height swell unfortunately. My wife has some understanding of my hobby - "you might need to rent a longboard". Which I did and there was a fair selection at the resort. I chose a 9' NSP soft top with nose crease which got my some small clean shorebreaking waves on my first day.
The local club at the resort piled on some longboard and mid length boards on top of a motorbike with sidecar and went around the corner to bumpier, but bigger waves. Got to use the softop a couple more times since, also caught the flu from which I have largely recovered and now in Koh Samui .It was almost certainly the flu - aching, fever, could not eat much, although that part lasted only 1 day. My ultimate grovelling machine is with me, a 5' 4" tufflite CI New Flyer, it got wet yesterday in tiny knee height waves, I was really going in for just a paddle to get wet and top up my fitness and not up to much anyway, but got a couple of standups where I was a able to throw in a few fish killers which got me to the sand. My wife was surprised that the shortboard would travel on the little waves, I was too. No waves at all today, 0.8 m predicted by 7am tomorrow, fingers crossed we shall see.
no surf report cause I was in the central valley for xmas but on today's 9 hour journey home through the coastal route, I'm getting gas in Oxnard and ordered my Subway sangwich for the road and Tom Fucking Curren is behind me. Whoa!
Did some work on my friends house across the street from Pipe. North wind, rainy, barely head high. No takers. Not always sunny 8 foot barrels during the winter on the NS. Traffic and tourist everywhere. Haha.