*** Official 2019 Community Surf Journal ***

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Dawned Bowls. Can’t complain south swells in November. Chee.

It was about the same as yesterday. Little less consistent. Slightly overhead good Middles.

Most important I didn’t suck like yesterday. I took out my 6’0 Tokoro 4X. Board worked amazing. It needs a pocket to light up and it sure did. Got a really good barrel. Barely scratched in so I was a little behind which set me up perfect to backdoor the section. Came out clean and tagged the whitewash in front of me and projected into the inside inside and tagged it a couple more times. My friend Barak had the wave before he said he duck dove a wave and when he popped up said he thought look at this nugget why isn’t anyone on it? Then I shot out. Pretty happy with that one. I paddled back to the lineup and told everyone I don’t suck today. Haha
 

waxfoot

Michael Peterson status
Apr 21, 2018
2,081
4,002
113
I plan on it. Looks like there are some beautiful trails around here!

The only hitch is I have a 2 year old and a 4 year old and I know they're going to want to go with me. Do they make those kids bike trailers off-road worthy? Would it be frowned upon if I went over some sweet jumps with them in tow? :)
Be warned though, you'll end up spending all your money you've ever earned!
If you thought that you can obsess about small details and costs of things with surfing.... then you have a world of self-inflicted pain ahead of you, (literally and figuratively) if you really get into it ;)
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Happy Veterans Day.
Dawned Bowls. South swells in November the ocean has been providing.

Waves were slow at dawn. Got a set was too deep so I ended up just sitting inside instead of paddling all the way out again. After 4 or 5 insiders I got a medium wave all the way to the rocks. As I was paddling back out the waves pumped. Must’ve been a dozen waves in the set. Sat outside after that and waited my turn for sets. Head high and a little bigger. Got a little slow again so I went in.

Rode a 5’9 today with those NVS g10 fins I just got. Board felt good. Been using mediums but switched back to large AM’s. Little more drive Gotta push harder on turns.
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
11,990
22,531
113
PNW
Last night was sick. Surfed a fairly fickle spot up North that can provide long rights but takes a very low tide and the right size/angle swell. It can be a little soft and bending away, the sort of wave that can be tough on a shortboard but the Rusty Shiv was killing it for me. This was the first time riding good rights on this board and it felt super good. Super lively and easy to make speed across the flat sections but still held in great when the steeper walls presented themselves for a carve. The sunset was stunning with a bank of deep red clouds that looked like a lava flow drifting overhead and reflecting off the glassy ocean surface below.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Dawned Bowls. It was a lot smaller than yesterday. Plus the tide was pretty high. A lot higher than the forecast. There’s a lot of coral bleaching going on too.

Paddled out hoping it would pulse as the tide fell, which it did. But been spoiled from the last three days of good surf. Stayed out longer than I thought just heckling friends and waiting for the occasional shoulder high sets. Pretty surfed out.

Looks like the NS might be too big for my spots over the weekend. Might just skate and watch the Haleiwa contest webcast.
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
11,990
22,531
113
PNW
new combo swell at the same spot I've been hitting in the evenings. I could tell when I pulled up that the size was going to be too much once the tide dropped a bit more so I hurried out there, Shiv under arm. first hour or so was magic and then as expected the sets started shifting wide and closing out. at one point I think I duckdove about twenty in a row before making it back outside. got a few more decent mid size ones and then called it. this fall isn't the best I've seen for surf, it's not bad, but as far as weather it's been amazing. I don't think we've had this little rain through sep/oct and so far nov in at least a decade or longer.
 
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CutnSnip

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2018
5,738
6,046
113
Probably dropping in on you, California
got to try out BSR in waco on monday. really fun - tricky at first and not like the ocean but after 4 or 5 waves started to have alot of fun with it. theres a really tight pocket that you need to be in in order to get the most out of the wave. we had it to ourselves from 9-6 with 6 people (all regulars, then all goofies) in the water at a time doing 45 minute "heats". Brought a GX and Flare and preferred the GX for sure on this wave.

Got to try the slab wave (weird but fun, gets old quick) and the air wave ( really hard to hit that section, but ive also never really done airs in my life). In total got about 80-100 waves and was exhausted after just a few "heats". On the 3 wave set with 6 people - its nonstop. by the time you paddle back out, your up again.

Was really surprised how shallow and hard the bottom is. you can easily get fucked up if you fall wrong. Kind of like falling when skateboarding.

would def go back when its a little warmer. air temp got pretty brutal towards the nd of the day as we had a storm roll in.
 

b.r.

Phil Edwards status
Dec 19, 2003
5,922
3,034
113
Leucadia
www.youtube.com
f'ed up my wrist and then a couple weeks later my thumb popped with a gnarly sound as I was popping up on a wave about 5 weeks ago so i took a little time off but worked my way back into paddling shape in time for the santa ana week with 7 surfs in a row, conditions were buttery and water was still nice, been trying to surf at least every other week day if there is surf and then leave the weekends for the golfer dudes, unless its good then i will jump in and battle those guys too.
 
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Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
11,990
22,531
113
PNW
More fun times at the same spot on the Shiv. The wind wasn't as clean and crispy as it's been the past few evenings but the size was good and the inside section was nugging up pretty hard with some hail mary barrels on offer for those willing to take the beatings. Most of the waves had a fun outside wall that would soften through the midsection and then get going again on the inside. A few of the deep mid sized ones would peel fast the whole way, growing as they ran. Near sunset the low tide started to make the bigger sets break outside and wide across the outer section. The inside section was still cornering off though, with most of the big sets reforming before running fast and hard down the shallow bar, growing in size as they went. My buddy and I honed in on the corner and we each got a couple fun/scary ones before going in. Felt good to push the limits of the Shiv a bit. It handled the size well. No problem catching waves or making long sections. Definitely quite a lively ride in the lumpy, well overhead surf but it never failed to hold an edge through turns.
 

ocean7847

Miki Dora status
Jun 23, 2004
4,786
317
83
the Injured Reserve
snagged an amazing session - well overhead, reeling, rippable reef/point surf for 3 hours with only 8 guys spread out over several take-off zones... then the crowd dwindled to 5... then to just 2 of us for the last two hours. basically sat on the spot i wanted and took choice waves off the sets - most of the few folks out weren't even interested in the bigger ones. caught some of my the better waves in the last year, threw a few very memorable backside turns, and just had an absolute ball. no wind, little fog, cold but not freezing... just epic. think its been 2 years since this spot gave it up like today.
 

bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
1,763
4,641
113
SF x Encinitas
Foggy, cold, and mostly closing out on the inner bars. One of those "5-7 foot" days that are bigger and much heavier than the forecast. Only three guys out in a three block span at middle beach. Watched another get rejected trying to get through a dumping inside bar with a really inhospitable interval. Honestly, had second thoughts after watching it from the beach for a while. But we are expecting an XL swell Friday and Saturday, so I figured this would be a good warm up. Timed the paddle just right, which I never do, and was out without too much of a pounding. Pulled back at the ledge of a few that were sucking out really fast before hopping a shoulder. Then decided to chase some mushier, bigger waves on an outside bar. Rolled into a few approaching double overhead and felt like a champ. Paddled back to the inside bar and pin-dropped a wave that sucked out beneath me. Called it a session. I love these big funky winter days with hardly anyone out.