spot c today with some leftover energy. lully but a handful of pretty fun lefts. Beautiful Fall morning
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*** Official 2019 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
1ft pathetic, gutless dribble day before yesterday.
2 X OH+ onshore gale fun yesterday.
1ft pathetic gutless dribble today.
Wellington surf in a nutshell :-/
2 X OH+ onshore gale fun yesterday.
1ft pathetic gutless dribble today.
Wellington surf in a nutshell :-/
These are the dreaded couple weeks each year where it’s actually not worth trying to do my normal dawn patrol as there’s simply not enough daylight before I have to leave. I did get a small handful of fun lefts yesterday after work. Really not a fan of afternoon/evening sessions, but needed to
get the gills wet to keep me sane and make sure I didn’t snap on the practice heat jerseys that came out like locusts.
get the gills wet to keep me sane and make sure I didn’t snap on the practice heat jerseys that came out like locusts.
Fading swell, building tide. No power, no shape. Oh well. Least I got wet. Sunset was nice too.
From yesterday:
Took the day off, drove up to NH. Some chop still left, strong offshore winds helped a little bit. 4-5 feet. Not many people out. Nice 55 degree water, sunny skies. Perfect Fall NE surf.
I think I'm out of sick days from work :/
Took the day off, drove up to NH. Some chop still left, strong offshore winds helped a little bit. 4-5 feet. Not many people out. Nice 55 degree water, sunny skies. Perfect Fall NE surf.
I think I'm out of sick days from work :/
"heat jerseys that came out like locusts "
Two of them paddled on us this morning down here. I prefer mosquito but locusts will do!
Soft with lots of corners. I was out of sync but still managed a bunch. Crowded as fuk for this spot
Two of them paddled on us this morning down here. I prefer mosquito but locusts will do!
Soft with lots of corners. I was out of sync but still managed a bunch. Crowded as fuk for this spot
Interesting day.
Short period sh!t first thing, then looking ok by 8am. Was ready to paddle out on my 5'10 Astro when I saw a good set, and switched to the Ghost. Good choice. Fun 3 hours at my local reef.
Wind came up this afternoon, but so did the swell. Swapped to the 7'6 Spartan and got some chunky screamers. Not big, but big enough, and the sweep and bump made the big board the go.
Whisky and chips now
Have a good weekend!
Short period sh!t first thing, then looking ok by 8am. Was ready to paddle out on my 5'10 Astro when I saw a good set, and switched to the Ghost. Good choice. Fun 3 hours at my local reef.
Wind came up this afternoon, but so did the swell. Swapped to the 7'6 Spartan and got some chunky screamers. Not big, but big enough, and the sweep and bump made the big board the go.
Whisky and chips now
Have a good weekend!
Wasn't planning on surfing today since it was forecasted to be small and windy. But then the FedEx guy dropped off a fresh Fling...
It ended up being less windy and warmer than I expected as I drove South to the open beaches. There was more swell than I thought there would be as well although it was mostly short interval wind swell. Spotted a bend in the beach with a few peaks popping off.
It was a mixed bag out there. Took me a while to find the sweet spot on the new sled. There was some lump and bump and a couple times that wide tail was feeling hard to tame. Had some frustrating moments but eventually got a few fun ones and ended the sesh on a fairly positive note. The sunset was a cloudless beauty with a peachy afterglow that lasted the majority of my 20 minute drive back up the coast.
It ended up being less windy and warmer than I expected as I drove South to the open beaches. There was more swell than I thought there would be as well although it was mostly short interval wind swell. Spotted a bend in the beach with a few peaks popping off.
It was a mixed bag out there. Took me a while to find the sweet spot on the new sled. There was some lump and bump and a couple times that wide tail was feeling hard to tame. Had some frustrating moments but eventually got a few fun ones and ended the sesh on a fairly positive note. The sunset was a cloudless beauty with a peachy afterglow that lasted the majority of my 20 minute drive back up the coast.
pretty fun at first light. Got a bunch of soft playful waves on the fuse. Surfed with my buddy who works with Justin Ternes and he was riding a "Dad bod" model ripping pretty damn good .
Fresh long interval swell starting to show this eve. Small but long lines. Surfed a spot that usually looks fun but then frustrates me with it's softness. Fling felt a bit better in the mush than it did in the steep beachies. Got a bunch of fun, long, waist high rights. Should be fun tomorrow eve.
Surfed my regular spot on the North Shore for the first time this season. It was a little overhead, glassy but needed a little more north for it to be really good. Of course it was pumping yesterday and I heard about from everyone who surfed Friday.
Brought my 6’0 and 6’2 but would’ve been better using a 5’10. My 6’0 felt a little long and heavy. Even though it’s a 4oz bottom and 4x4 deck. So used to riding smaller ultra light boards during the summer.
It was fun getting to warm up to the winter season in non-life threatening waves. Got a couple of nice turns and a barrel that pinched on me.
Tomorrow might be too big for that spot. But might be surfable first thing in the morning. Gotta check the buoys before heading out.
Winter is here.
Brought my 6’0 and 6’2 but would’ve been better using a 5’10. My 6’0 felt a little long and heavy. Even though it’s a 4oz bottom and 4x4 deck. So used to riding smaller ultra light boards during the summer.
It was fun getting to warm up to the winter season in non-life threatening waves. Got a couple of nice turns and a barrel that pinched on me.
Tomorrow might be too big for that spot. But might be surfable first thing in the morning. Gotta check the buoys before heading out.
Winter is here.
Small longboard waves late morning with my groms. Both caught tons on the Boogies and the girl switched to the surfboard. Both were stoked=Stoked Dad!!
Surfed the same North Shore spot as yesterday. It was half the size. Soft head high waves. Glassy, mellow crowd.
Took my 5’10 out and it worked good for the conditions. Brought the 6’0 in case the new swell showed up early.
Swell was too west for the spot so the take off is steep but the walls break out to sea. Still got a couple of fun ones. Even smaller country days the wave has push compared to town. I did a roundhouse and when I rebounded off the whitewash I got mowed. Love it. So when you watch a pro like JJF do a roundhouse and tag the whitewater on a rebound on a well overhead NS wave that’s some manly sh*t right there.
The buoys have been showing the new swell from last night looks like this afternoon should really pick up.
Driving into Wahiawa saw a car burning on the freeway. Going home HPD had that part of the freeway closed. Had to detour thru Kunia. Someone must’ve died. RIP.
Took my 5’10 out and it worked good for the conditions. Brought the 6’0 in case the new swell showed up early.
Swell was too west for the spot so the take off is steep but the walls break out to sea. Still got a couple of fun ones. Even smaller country days the wave has push compared to town. I did a roundhouse and when I rebounded off the whitewash I got mowed. Love it. So when you watch a pro like JJF do a roundhouse and tag the whitewater on a rebound on a well overhead NS wave that’s some manly sh*t right there.
The buoys have been showing the new swell from last night looks like this afternoon should really pick up.
Driving into Wahiawa saw a car burning on the freeway. Going home HPD had that part of the freeway closed. Had to detour thru Kunia. Someone must’ve died. RIP.
Paddled out for the first winter swell at my local. Took out my 6'2" performance short board and was stoked that everything aligned to where I could surf good waves. Its hard to make some swells when you have two kids and a demanding work schedule.
Showed up to my local around noon and to my surprise it wasn't crowded. Paddled out and totally blew my first wave and tumbled down the face. Blew the next two waves too. Take a minute to settle down and then paddle for another wave only to have my entire leg cramp up on takeoff and tumble down the face again.
Paddled over to the steeper pitching section of the beach and lineup on a well overhead pitching wave. Stick the drop and ride it out. Next wave I go over the falls. Finally decided I had enough and went in before I ended up injuring myself. I chalked it up to an off day.
Showed up to my local around noon and to my surprise it wasn't crowded. Paddled out and totally blew my first wave and tumbled down the face. Blew the next two waves too. Take a minute to settle down and then paddle for another wave only to have my entire leg cramp up on takeoff and tumble down the face again.
Paddled over to the steeper pitching section of the beach and lineup on a well overhead pitching wave. Stick the drop and ride it out. Next wave I go over the falls. Finally decided I had enough and went in before I ended up injuring myself. I chalked it up to an off day.
Windy and a ripping current at the right hand sand bar up North. Saw some low tide drainers but it looked really tough. Almost didn't paddle out but my buddy talked me into it. It was about as bad as it looked. I did get one walled up one that opened up on the inside. I pulled in and got about a second of tube time before getting sucked up and over and then slammed on the sand bar. Kinda bashed my hand against the hard packed sand but no biggie, just glad it wasn't my head.
Great weekend away with the family and it looks like I didn't miss much.
Not much on offer today so quick sesh to start off the week on the fuse.
Not much on offer today so quick sesh to start off the week on the fuse.
Pretty fun today in NOC
waist -shoulder some offshore wind.
Nine lights twinzer
waist -shoulder some offshore wind.
Nine lights twinzer
Minus tide, long interval west swell. Closeouts as far as the eye could see. Somehow my buddy talked me into paddling out. The evening air was cold and the water was colder. The stiff offshore wind was warm though. Just kidding, it was cold too. Surfing wise it was a terrific waste of time but the sunset was another one for the books.