***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal***

jkb

Phil Edwards status
Feb 22, 2005
6,466
41
48
Oceansuck
I guess I'll start this bitch off.

First one in the water this morning and it was pretty fun despite the high tide and small swell. Caught a few beach break rights that ran for a while. A few too many guys paddled out at my peak so I moved on to the next one and proceeded to catch more fun waves.

Chilly morning, but a good start to 2019!

 

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
21,053
33
48
average and cold and not empty early today. had a sideshore chop. oddly it was far better later when i didnt surf
 

Oceanslide

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Mar 5, 2008
8,813
13
38
Oceanside, CA
Beautiful start to 2019. Partied with good friends up north last night, woke to gorgeous
weather today. Didn’t expect to surf when I got home this afternoon but the wind was
still light offshore, which rarely happens here, so I went out on the VS Slot log
and caught many knee high beautiful little trimmers, both right and left, with a light
crowd. Driving away I saw the sun dip below the horizon, now I’m sipping Chimay Blue.
Life is GOOD! Happy New Year, folks.
 

sd_101

Michael Peterson status
Jul 27, 2014
2,294
29
48
around san diego
First surf of 2019. Small considering where I went and how it looked 2 days ago, but can’t conplain. Mostly just smaller peelers but a couple shampoo views.

Back to warmer climates and thinner rubber next week.
 

Tanner

Phil Edwards status
Jul 30, 2003
7,032
0
36
Point Loma
Visit site
Stoked that my first session of 2019 was WAY better than my last session of 2018...........and that ain't sayin' much! :grin:

Late morning into early afternoon solo session at my favorite little reef.

Nothing to write home about, but I'll take chest high (on the sets) peelers any day of the week.

Went retro and rode the OG 7'2 Bing single fin from 1973 that's on permanent loan from a longboarder friend who has zero interest in riding it.

Got home and when putting the board back in the rack noticed that the fin screw had come completely out :eek:

Stoked that it's a snug box and the fin stayed in the entire time.

Happy New Year everyone!

:cheers:
 

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
21,053
33
48
dongboarded some small lame sh!t. was quite boring, and still got followed.
the things i do for the wife...
 

Maz

Gerry Lopez status
May 18, 2004
1,103
0
0
Innzid
Last surf of 2018 was sheet glass overhead right point perfection. 2-300m waves. Not another soul around. EPIC!

First of 2019 was sheet glass, shoulder high, very soft lefts. Shared with one other guy. Dinner in the back of the wagon afterwards with my wife and the vizsla, incl a very nice local rosé, with the sun setting over the Kaikoura ranges in the distance.

Happy new year to all of you.
 

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
18,170
13
38
San Francisco, CA
First one out as far as I could tell this AM in the cold offshore. Beautiful sliver of a moon next to a planet. 4 ft at 14 seconds on the buoy. Lots of double-up with the flood tide incoming. Best ride was long racy right with three good turns. Was chilly when pulling off the wetsuit in that wind.

PS

Better yesterday.

PPS

Bbetter on 1st of the year.
 

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
21,053
33
48
dongboarded some small lame sh!t again. was quite boring, again and still got followed, again.
the things i do for the wife...again
 

Aruka

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2010
5,663
50
48
PNW
Last day of 2018 was epic. First day of 2019 was epic-er. Yesterday was great as well. Today the storm front moved in and it looks like we're in for a few more fronts back to back with some short windows of light winds in between. Can only hope our sand bars survive the onslaught.
 

grendel95

Gerry Lopez status
Nov 1, 2005
1,341
5
38
SJC
Charged down to the land of naked dudes and peaky rights and lefts. Fun glassy corners on the inside while everyone was waiting for the walled sets. Really fun waves on my RNF retro feeling out a legit quad set, a bit tracky for me so I'll probably stick to twins from now on.

Buddy dove deep into my quiver and asked to ride my Aviso RNF, we traded halfway through the session and boy does the OG RNF still slice and dice. Had to adjust to the narrow tail but within a couple waves I had it dialed and couldn't wipe the smile from my face.

Rode it with the latest Mayhem tri set, not normally what I would ride but it went really well.
 

bluengreen

Grom
Oct 22, 2018
32
6
8
SF x Encinitas
Got pounded at OBSF. Long period energy had peaks from Noriega to Pacheco pumping, nonetheless got out during a long lull for the easiest paddle out I've ever had here. First couple sets came through and didn't really feel that big. Then ma ocean serves up a six wave set that has people scratching for the horizon. I happened to be at the dead center of the peak. Made it over all but the last wave. Last second decision to duck dive right under the falling lip rather than ditch my board. Snuck under the lip but found myself being sucked back over the falls under water. Got absolutely drilled straight to the bottom. Rag dolled. Ears pressurized. After the pounding let up, took four strokes to surface. Worst situation of the season for me. Luckily there were no more incoming. Was spooked for the rest of the session and spent the next hour floating south with the current and paddling over set waves like a total wuss. Eventually shoulder hopped a wave in. Tomorrow's supposed to be bigger. Try again?
 

Oceanslide

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Mar 5, 2008
8,813
13
38
Oceanside, CA
Micro longboard trimmers on the VS Slot. Was crowded for a bit, then not.
Ankle-knee, with crystal clear water and SO MANY rays, along with tons of sizable
fish. Trimming along a wave a 2’ deep water with hundreds of rays swimming below
you is a bit disconcerting.
 

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
21,053
33
48
got out alone early with the tide 2 hi, still got some good ones b4 i got followed\ and split

later i brought the wife to another spot i invented surfing to escape crowds.
some dude and his chick followed me and he was pushing her into waves just like i was . what a coincidence. this spot is a no-mans-land. bald dork followed me earlier but got nothing and left quick. got wife into some nice long rights that were just mushy enough for her
 

bluengreen

Grom
Oct 22, 2018
32
6
8
SF x Encinitas
Mr Doof said:
First one out as far as I could tell this AM in the cold offshore. Beautiful sliver of a moon next to a planet. 4 ft at 14 seconds on the buoy. Lots of double-up with the flood tide incoming. Best ride was long racy right with three good turns. Was chilly when pulling off the wetsuit in that wind.

PS

Better yesterday.

PPS

Bbetter on 1st of the year.
Agreed. You surf the inner bar at Pacheco at low tide on the 1st and 2nd?
 

shaheeb

Grom
Feb 24, 2013
148
0
16
whats with the lemmings following seems a recurring theme hehehe

had a couple surfs, dont remember much but it feels good to get out.

splitting time lately... for wife to surf and time to watch the toddler makes it hard.

what ever little bit we get is great....
 

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
21,053
33
48
somehow was worse than yesterday morn. hi tide bs. got a few b4 the followers ruined any chance of fun