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*** Official 2019 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
The only thing I can figure is the standard OTR wetsuits are so shitty nowdays it actually makes it tolerable.
4/3s are commonly being warn in 62-65 degree water here.
As far as I can tell they are regularly being worn in 70+ degree water here. I would probably have a heat stroke, especially with how sunny it's been.
Dawned my regular. The suns been coming up later so I was lallygagging around in the parking lot. It looked a little small so I was undecided about going out. Then I saw whitewater from Rockpiles to Bowls. That made up my mind.
Paddled out and there were only 6 people out and it was firing. A little morning sickness but overhead waves, mid tide, double ups. First wave got a little head dip but was up toward the nose hit a bump and face planted. Paddled out thru 5 or 6 more waves and got a second one from that set. Jeannie said she took 10 on the head.
There were a couple more flurries. Then it turned onshore and went flat. It started raining and I decided to wait out the squall hoping it would glass off. It did but still very inconsistent. Rode a couple more and went in to go to work.
Last two south swells have been weird. Moments of perfection but mostly frustrating.
Paddled out and there were only 6 people out and it was firing. A little morning sickness but overhead waves, mid tide, double ups. First wave got a little head dip but was up toward the nose hit a bump and face planted. Paddled out thru 5 or 6 more waves and got a second one from that set. Jeannie said she took 10 on the head.
There were a couple more flurries. Then it turned onshore and went flat. It started raining and I decided to wait out the squall hoping it would glass off. It did but still very inconsistent. Rode a couple more and went in to go to work.
Last two south swells have been weird. Moments of perfection but mostly frustrating.
Evening sesh at a beach break that I haven't surfed in a long time. It was clean and peaky but was weaker than it looked. Took the Shadow out but was wishing I had a fish or something with a little more glide. Got a few double up lefts that opened up and allowed for a little pigdogging. Got pitched on one and the nose of my board hit my shin and got pretty busted up. The board, not my shin. Kind of a bummer. Surfed for a bit longer and got a fun right to go in on. Walking back to my truck as the sun set and there was a young guy and his girlfriend up on the bluff above and the guy was hitting golf balls into the ocean. I kinda lost my sh!t on him and at first he played dumb and then he played tough but once I got up to the parking lot he apologized. Said he grew up here and was visiting from Alaska. I told him that was arguably worse and he should have some pride in his home and that those golf balls don't just disappear once they land in the ocean.
After they left I felt a little bad for maybe embarrassing him in front of his girlfriend and wondered if I'd been a little harsh on him. Nahhhh.
After they left I felt a little bad for maybe embarrassing him in front of his girlfriend and wondered if I'd been a little harsh on him. Nahhhh.
fun waves today at sandbar B that I haven't been surfing lately. Nice to know it handled some tide cause we're coming up on that season. Smaller than I thought it was going to be so I rode the fuse again. Damn, this board is going to ruin me. So fricken easy to surf.
Dawned the regular. It was pretty good. Felt like it was a regular ssw swell. Low tide going up, trades, light crowd at first mostly the regular dawn patrollers. Sets were a little overhead. There were lulls but nothing like the last few days.
I got a couple coverups. I fell on a knife in doggy door exit. I pulled in on the drop got kinda forward on the board it got really round but was going to close out so tried to doggy door exit and got axed on the head. Hahaha. Was happy on the knife in. Got checked on the exit.
I was ready to go in when a little chest high wave popped up and broke kinda far out for how small the wave was. This kook on a 9’plus longboard, not a soft top, tried to paddle over it then bailed his board. It didn’t come near me but went right into a crowd of my friends. They were rattled. Why would you bail your board on such a small wave. Elaine who is an older lady said she felt something go right over her. One of the guys told her good thing you had your helmet on. Gregg said it was coming straight for him and he duck drove really deep and it grazed him.
The kook was a stereotypical jock type muscular no brains. No one said anything to him. I lost it. Started yelling at him to hold on to your f*cking board. How the f*ck you going to bail your big board into the crowd on a little ass wave. He said sorry. I yelled sorry is just a word. You going to say sorry if they had to go to the hospital? Yeah have fun kook but not if your fun includes hurting two of my friends. He kept saying sorry and paddled away. I kept yelling at him to hold on to your board and don’t come back out here.
A wave came and all the guys were telling me to go. I whipped and saw another Chinese pop out riding donkey inside and sprayed the sh*t out of him. After the adrenaline wore off I had a hard time catching a wave in. I think I have an anger problem. Hahaha
I got a couple coverups. I fell on a knife in doggy door exit. I pulled in on the drop got kinda forward on the board it got really round but was going to close out so tried to doggy door exit and got axed on the head. Hahaha. Was happy on the knife in. Got checked on the exit.
I was ready to go in when a little chest high wave popped up and broke kinda far out for how small the wave was. This kook on a 9’plus longboard, not a soft top, tried to paddle over it then bailed his board. It didn’t come near me but went right into a crowd of my friends. They were rattled. Why would you bail your board on such a small wave. Elaine who is an older lady said she felt something go right over her. One of the guys told her good thing you had your helmet on. Gregg said it was coming straight for him and he duck drove really deep and it grazed him.
The kook was a stereotypical jock type muscular no brains. No one said anything to him. I lost it. Started yelling at him to hold on to your f*cking board. How the f*ck you going to bail your big board into the crowd on a little ass wave. He said sorry. I yelled sorry is just a word. You going to say sorry if they had to go to the hospital? Yeah have fun kook but not if your fun includes hurting two of my friends. He kept saying sorry and paddled away. I kept yelling at him to hold on to your board and don’t come back out here.
A wave came and all the guys were telling me to go. I whipped and saw another Chinese pop out riding donkey inside and sprayed the sh*t out of him. After the adrenaline wore off I had a hard time catching a wave in. I think I have an anger problem. Hahaha
Quick morning sesh just to get my feet in the wax of a new Rusty Twinny that arrived today. Winds were up and the conditions were pretty haggard but I got a couple fun lefts before calling it.
Evening time went back out to the same beach break I surfed last night. Swell had built a little and we surfed a different part of the beach that seemed to have a bit better shape. Twinny felt good good on the backhand but oddly not great on the rights. Kind of stiff. After about half an hour my dinky little comp leash broke and when I went to my truck to get a new one I also changed from the EN fins to the carbon Drab twins which are slightly smaller and more canted. Back in the lineup my first wave was a pretty long right that offered up multiple sections and I got a few solid feeling turns. Definitely stoked on the fin swap. Got a bunch more fun waves, mostly steep double up lefts. The waves were non stop and the current was brutal, pretty much paddling the whole time just to hold position. Overall really fun session followed by a crazy beautiful sunset which had this long blanket of offshore clouds all lit up florescent pink and the colors just kept morphing and intensifying long after the sun had gone down.
Evening time went back out to the same beach break I surfed last night. Swell had built a little and we surfed a different part of the beach that seemed to have a bit better shape. Twinny felt good good on the backhand but oddly not great on the rights. Kind of stiff. After about half an hour my dinky little comp leash broke and when I went to my truck to get a new one I also changed from the EN fins to the carbon Drab twins which are slightly smaller and more canted. Back in the lineup my first wave was a pretty long right that offered up multiple sections and I got a few solid feeling turns. Definitely stoked on the fin swap. Got a bunch more fun waves, mostly steep double up lefts. The waves were non stop and the current was brutal, pretty much paddling the whole time just to hold position. Overall really fun session followed by a crazy beautiful sunset which had this long blanket of offshore clouds all lit up florescent pink and the colors just kept morphing and intensifying long after the sun had gone down.
i surfed oxnard today for the first time in a long time. was fun. just a spot along the beach in the nard.
Only took nearly 10 months to get this stickied 
Did my usual routine and was heading to Bowls pre dawn. Checked the cams and it looked onshore and it was pouring. Went to Walmart and the Starbucks there.
By the time I got to the Bowls parking lot the wind went light offshore. Waves were firing. Overhead but a little crossed up, old swell with new swell. Low tide. But there were some drainers. I took my 6’0 out. It’s glassed heavier for the NS and it felt a little long. But I got a couple of barrels.
No drama today. Guess donkeys don’t like rain and light onshore wind. But I did see the friend of the kook from yesterday. I got a tube in front of him and he told me nice one. I told him thanks and we talked about his friend being dangerous in the lineup. He was apologetic and said he would talk to him. That actually went better than I expected.
By the time I got to the Bowls parking lot the wind went light offshore. Waves were firing. Overhead but a little crossed up, old swell with new swell. Low tide. But there were some drainers. I took my 6’0 out. It’s glassed heavier for the NS and it felt a little long. But I got a couple of barrels.
No drama today. Guess donkeys don’t like rain and light onshore wind. But I did see the friend of the kook from yesterday. I got a tube in front of him and he told me nice one. I told him thanks and we talked about his friend being dangerous in the lineup. He was apologetic and said he would talk to him. That actually went better than I expected.
Not sure the last time I‘ve posted here...
Due to some recent changed circumstances, I am in between gigs... meaning I have unlimited free time in Sept/Oct/Nov in NorCenCal (copyright Iceman). I’ve spent that free time surfing every day with just couple rest days (meaning a trip to the gym) here or there. Yesterday was hot, glassy, perfect conditions all along the coast. Surfed a little reef for 3+ hours. Only a handful of ‘good waves’ caught in absolutely frigid water (I had full body shivers and couldn’t feel hands or feet). Been riding a little 6’0 hybrid fish/shortboard (little is relative, at 6’4” and 220lbs) and enjoying the thruster setup on my backhand. First wave allowed for a full throttle backhand hit that felt amazing... and I didn’t get another wave like that the rest of the session. Few other nuggets but despite the epic conditions the actual waves themselves were generally just ok.
do we post pics these days? I swear, the photo-journal days of the erBB past seem so long ago...
Due to some recent changed circumstances, I am in between gigs... meaning I have unlimited free time in Sept/Oct/Nov in NorCenCal (copyright Iceman). I’ve spent that free time surfing every day with just couple rest days (meaning a trip to the gym) here or there. Yesterday was hot, glassy, perfect conditions all along the coast. Surfed a little reef for 3+ hours. Only a handful of ‘good waves’ caught in absolutely frigid water (I had full body shivers and couldn’t feel hands or feet). Been riding a little 6’0 hybrid fish/shortboard (little is relative, at 6’4” and 220lbs) and enjoying the thruster setup on my backhand. First wave allowed for a full throttle backhand hit that felt amazing... and I didn’t get another wave like that the rest of the session. Few other nuggets but despite the epic conditions the actual waves themselves were generally just ok.
do we post pics these days? I swear, the photo-journal days of the erBB past seem so long ago...
Dont worry this will be stuck here well into 2020...Only took nearly 10 months to get this stickied
Maybe we shouldn't have a year in the title...
A solid long interval swell yesterday got my hopes up but a strong north wind crushed my dreams. Sounds like I need to move to NorCenCal. Anyways, the steep swell angle meant it wasn't getting into my local as well as I expected but in the later part of the afternoon at low tide there was a few peaks showing so I went for it on the Rusty twin. The winds hadn't quite started to die off and despite the mostly offshore direction it was a real pain the ass to surf. The water temp has dropped significantly after only a couple days of north winds and my un-gloved hands were not happy. Struggled for almost an hour before the incoming push and dying winds conspired to create some pretty surfable and fun conditions. A couple buddies showed up and it was just us and a random guy on a 6-8+ hypto. After he dropped in on me once we all started stuffing him until he moved down to a different peak.
It always kinda sucks when there's a 10@15 swell running but you're relegated to chest high peelers due to winds. On the other hand, chest high peelers with just a couple friends is nothing to complain about. Conditions got pretty buttery as the wind clocked more easterly and there was a solid window of good peaks coming through before the tide started to flood. Twin felt pretty good on both the rights and the lefts. Definitely still figuring it out like sometimes I feel I'm doing something wrong and it bogs but I'm not sure exactly what my mistake is, maybe a little too heavy on the back foot? It's pretty thin in the tail so feels like it sinks on slow sections. Mostly though it felt fast and free and I had a few waves where everything really came together nicely.
One buddy was riding a Stretch Quadfish and the other was on a Hypto thruster so we had all the bases pretty well covered and everyone was having a good time.
It always kinda sucks when there's a 10@15 swell running but you're relegated to chest high peelers due to winds. On the other hand, chest high peelers with just a couple friends is nothing to complain about. Conditions got pretty buttery as the wind clocked more easterly and there was a solid window of good peaks coming through before the tide started to flood. Twin felt pretty good on both the rights and the lefts. Definitely still figuring it out like sometimes I feel I'm doing something wrong and it bogs but I'm not sure exactly what my mistake is, maybe a little too heavy on the back foot? It's pretty thin in the tail so feels like it sinks on slow sections. Mostly though it felt fast and free and I had a few waves where everything really came together nicely.
One buddy was riding a Stretch Quadfish and the other was on a Hypto thruster so we had all the bases pretty well covered and everyone was having a good time.
Aru
Aruka you ride your twin two fins no trailer? I have not got many chances to ride my AO but love the drive and turn with TA glass twin set which is wide base set with more hold then pivot.
I have only one twin that has a center box (Stamps Indo/Banjo custom) and so far I prefer it as a pure twin. The Rusty I just got (pics in the Rusty thread on this page) doesn't have a center box so I don't have the option. I'm sure it would work great with a trailer fin in bigger surf but at that point I'd probably just rather ride a thruster. I have a set of those TA twins. Great set. Pretty similar template to the Drab twins. The AO twin looks sick man, hope you get some more sessions on it soon.
Dawned my regular. It was onshore so I didn’t rush to get out there. Took out the 6’0. There were waves but my regular DD would’ve been more fun. I thought I saw waves in the Bowl. I just want to get a couple more barrels at Big Bowl before the south swells end.
Waves were overhead, low tide, swirling wind that would glass off. Raining. Not a post card type of day. I got a couple of good waves but got worked on my best one. Got a set, set up the barrel and with the lingering bump from the early onshore the wave just grabbed my tail. I fell in the bad spot got dragged and held under. I probably should’ve fought for the surface but I just rolled with it. Haha.
Surfed with Mike Ho and Kaimana Henry first light. Mana hurt his knee on an air and went in early. Mike stayed out and we asked about his wave at the pool. He said he didn’t want to go cause he didn’t have a board and he never surfed it before. But got talked into it. He used a board there popped the middle fin out put in some trailers and they let him have that left. He said he didn’t want to fall in front of the whole CT. I told him he looked good. I asked if he saw the side by side with him and Coco. He said Coco roasted him cause her sprays were higher. Hahaha
Waves were overhead, low tide, swirling wind that would glass off. Raining. Not a post card type of day. I got a couple of good waves but got worked on my best one. Got a set, set up the barrel and with the lingering bump from the early onshore the wave just grabbed my tail. I fell in the bad spot got dragged and held under. I probably should’ve fought for the surface but I just rolled with it. Haha.
Surfed with Mike Ho and Kaimana Henry first light. Mana hurt his knee on an air and went in early. Mike stayed out and we asked about his wave at the pool. He said he didn’t want to go cause he didn’t have a board and he never surfed it before. But got talked into it. He used a board there popped the middle fin out put in some trailers and they let him have that left. He said he didn’t want to fall in front of the whole CT. I told him he looked good. I asked if he saw the side by side with him and Coco. He said Coco roasted him cause her sprays were higher. Hahaha