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*** Official 2019 Community Surf Journal ***

Bohter

Bohter

Michael Peterson status
Mar 7, 2006
2,665
232
63
Went out west to the happy hunting grounds early Sunday The SW was pretty strong when it was there...but typical of a NZ 215 degree swell...many holes in it. Shoulda brought a pillow. Solid head high and roping if you picked the right one. Varying degree of offshores....first "fall" morning feel. Was so rusty (and old) but felt so good to get out there after missing most of the summer season and only one winter launch. Vibe was distinctly different with all the recent changes. Wow! #501. PS - Talked with an owner buddy who claims property prices are dropping up there...quite a few selling due to said changes. Public drive in access being pushed as a political agenda at HR only....not other more or equally feasible locations like DP Ranch or Las Varas....those places are "not on the agenda". Wow #2.
 
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Aruka

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,172
23,140
113
PNW
Today was supposed to be a rest day but an old friend of mine was back in town and he wanted to get wet so this evening we went poking around and found a little peak forming up on the outgoing tide. Small south swell but pretty consistent. Buttery conditions. Few fun rights but the lefts were better. Got a bunch of nice little runners and managed to connect the dots on one in particular that gave me a pretty decent dose of stoke. Stamps Banjo fish felt great, I missed this good little boar.
 
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Havoc

Havoc

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
May 23, 2016
7,801
12,442
113
in da hood next to paradise
fun waves in north oc except for the 75 surf club hs kids that have first period as surf. ultra crowded lineup at 6am loud musiv yelling cursing and hassling for waist to stomach high mush. da fk??? is this even legal lol??

i just posted up against the lids and got my share. fun fir what it was but that crowd was worse than the most crowded peak summer day.
 
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H

Hdip

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2005
3,348
808
113
Malibu, CA
Rode a new board today. Gonna take a bit of figuring it out, but it had moments of brilliance. The upsetting part was I left my wetsuit at first by one of those guys who lives in his van.
 
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Aruka

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,172
23,140
113
PNW
Went back up to the honey hole this morning. The low tide wasn't quite low enough and the swell wasn't anything special. Debated riding a fish but went with an old trusty Stamps thruster instead. Got a few fun head high runners. Board felt good, despite the wonky waves. Wind came up, tide flooded and that was it.

Evening time went south to surf at the base of the mountain. Peaks up and down the beach. Looked fun size from up on the overlook but ended up being kind of real with some throaty double ups standing up and unloading on the shallow bar. Tried for mostly lefts at first since there was a better channel but ended up being in position for a right that ended up being really good. Stuck to the rights after that and got a pretty good barrel and a couple turns. Fun times.
 
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SrPato

SrPato

Miki Dora status
Jul 12, 2005
4,990
1,346
113
San Buena Ventura
A couple of choice spots North of town were looking good. I chose a beach break and miraculously found a few lefts and one pretty good pigdog right. I'm sure I'll be sore for a couple of days. mbUnlJY.gif
 
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Aruka

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,172
23,140
113
PNW
Struggle fest yesterday. Surfed a juicy left with a ton of rip. Took an old Stamps squashy out that felt too thin, kept getting held up in the lip and couldn't make the first long section. My goofy buddy was schooling me, having a heyday. I finally went in, hiked back to the truck and go my Ghost. Got a few fun ones after that but I was already gassed and then the tide turned, started sucking out and the rip went from bad to worse. Stayed in my suit and drove to my local. Small but cleanish and pockety. Took out a Puddle Jumper Slim I just picked up used and actually had quite a fun session until the board flipped over and I took a fin to the butt. Kinda hurt but nothing crazy. Little nick in my suit, oh well. Wasn't until I got home that I realized I caved in one of the side fin boxes. Dang.
 
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O

obslop

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Feb 4, 2002
8,044
1,512
113
san diego, CA
little LB action today.

i've surfed very little since early July 2019 and it has not bothered me in the least. kinda refreshing in a weird way.

i paddle out now for the odd 50 minute session and i'm stoked with whatever i get. people drop in on me/get in the way, etc. and i could care less. just nice to be in the water.
 
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Aruka

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,172
23,140
113
PNW
Evening solo sesh in the shadow of the mountain. A bit walled up but with fun corners to be had. Head high sets, nice and pushy. Leftover bump from the days wind kept it from being what I would consider great quality but the wind was dying and conditions improved as the daylight faded. Rusty Twin felt so good, getting in early and flying through sections. There was a pod of small porpoises that cruised through the lineup at one point and outside an assortment of sea birds flying and diving all around. A half moon crested the treed mountain ridge as the sunset progressed through the oranges and into the purples. The lefts were a bit fast, hard to fit in a turn but still fun to race. The rights were more ripable and I got some fun turns. Ended the sesh with a funky, pockety, sectiony double up right that I managed to make the most of and finish off with my best turn of the day. Took a dip in the creek to rinse off the salt before hiking back up the hill. Not a bad way to end a day that was otherwise spent roofing my sisters house in the sun.
 
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R

retodd

Duke status
Feb 23, 2009
16,757
2,177
113
Jdj and sublime came to the secret sandbar

Both had tons of good waves while I sat a waited .

Got a few myself

Sabotaged my session. With small quad trailers . Nope....

JDJ rusty twin fin is really good ...... that tech feels even better the spintech
 
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ocean7847

ocean7847

Miki Dora status
Jun 23, 2004
4,787
327
83
the Injured Reserve
hit it from 8:30-12:45, super clean conditions, fun shoulder+ waves with some hollow sections. started as a thruster, then ran back to swap to a quad to finish out the extended session. surfed a couple different spots near enough to paddle between, got a couple tunnel visions but no makes, more than a few fun turns, surfed at one point with two friends and we couldn't believe our luck. more this week on tap!

also, got some new solite booties and just molded them to my feet. anyone else running these?
 
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