***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal***

Chee-to

Michael Peterson status
Jan 11, 2002
1,808
11
38
Got in the water for the first couple times in months after lots of rehab/PT work for a couple short sessions this weekend. Feels like I can barely surf and laying the board on rail is definitely out pending more PT, but I got to trim on a few and at least keep the connection alive.
 

Chee-to

Michael Peterson status
Jan 11, 2002
1,808
11
38
@Aruka detailed the issues in a couple Surf Doc forum threads, but basically the combination of an office desk job, regular surfing, heavy weightlifting, and maybe minimalist shoes overstrengthened my pelvic floor and core muscles to where they locked up and started impinging the nerves coming out of my spine. Not an acute injury, but a slow managed one where the next steps are retraining basic life and movement patterns.
 
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Aruka

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2010
5,663
50
48
PNW
@Chee-to just read the thread. I hope that your progress continues. I had a string of injuries in my early 30's but now at 36 I feel as fit and healthy as I have in a long time. It took a lot of work and time though and I still have to stay up on all the maintenance exercises and stretches. I can't just surf hard every day and spend evenings on the couch and expect everything to keep working, apparently.
 

jkb

Phil Edwards status
Feb 22, 2005
6,466
41
48
Oceansuck
@Chee-to just read the thread. I hope that your progress continues. I had a string of injuries in my early 30's but now at 36 I feel as fit and healthy as I have in a long time. It took a lot of work and time though and I still have to stay up on all the maintenance exercises and stretches. I can't just surf hard every day and spend evenings on the couch and expect everything to keep working, apparently.
This is an unfortunate truth that I am now realizing at 40.

I'm lucky I didn't go so far down the rabbit hole that it was going to be a major challenge to bounce back.

Diet and exercise are top priorities for me now as preventative maintenance, whereas I never had to think about either of those things before.
 
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teeroi

Michael Peterson status
Oct 21, 2007
2,910
47
48
eastside oahu
Dawn patrolled Bowls. Thought I saw Big Bowl sets in the dark so was going to take out the 6’0. My friends changed my mind. Glad they did. I think the swell peaked late yesterday afternoon. I was watching the cam and getting excited.

Waves were still a little overhead. Low tide with it filling in fast. The tide has been way higher than forecasted all summer. Lots of different swell directions in the water which made some weird sections but there were some good ones to be had.

I rode my 5’9 and got a couple of good waves with mostly snaps and roundhouses mixed in.

Paddled out in the dark with Anthony Walsh. He hadn’t surfed since Tahiti. I asked him about that wipeout he had. Walshy said he had an impact vest on but the next wave was a tow wave and he got punished from that one. Walshy just sits inside at Bowls and get little waist high tubes after getting smoked on 15 foot waves at Teahupoo. Go figure.

Here’s a screeen grab from yesterday’s peak.
Was hoping would still have some like that today. There were a couple that broke in the Bowl but not worth sitting 30 minutes for.
407C542A-A27A-4CF1-A5AE-EA00EE06B91D.jpeg
 

sd_101

Michael Peterson status
Jul 27, 2014
2,294
29
48
around san diego
Paddled out into some sickness at dusk but the evening glass off tamed things by dark.

Took turns with the locals on the multi-wave sets. Long runners with warble on the face but still managed to fit in some tight shredz.

Last one was the best one, as all quality sessions should end.

Starting to feel like fall.
 

teeroi

Michael Peterson status
Oct 21, 2007
2,910
47
48
eastside oahu
Dawn patrolled Bowls. There’s this regular I can’t stand. We used to be friends but he’s the kind of “friend”that will call you once a year during mango season and ask you if you could bring a bag of fruit to the beach. The last straw was he asked Wade Tokoro to try his personal board. He liked it and insisted Wade sell him that board.,Wade told him they could make him a custom in a couple weeks. But he insisted he wanted that board. Then he bitched about the price, which was at cost. He likes to sit on top of the pack but paddles and misses wave after wave. I usually try to mess with him by getting a set paddling around him for the next one too. I’m such a duck. I must be surfed out cause he got a nice double up. Hahaha.

Waves were about shoulder high but inconsistent. They were nice when they came in. Saw my friend Gregg get a sick one and do about 10 turns. So I tried to at least get 5. Even managed to stay on after the close out bash. It’s tricky at the end cause the wave bowls at you all the way until it hits the inside then the wall straightens out and doesn’t push your board back to you on a turn. I usually overshoot the lip or my body gets too far behind the board.

Makua came out for a half hour and managed to get a few lefts and smash a rare right. He’s doing stunt work for Hawaii 5-0. They’re shooting nearby and are set up in the middle parking lot. They’re taking over the Kaiser lot tomorrow. Probably pass on surfing, rest and wait for the next swell toward the weekend.
 

Oceanslide

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Mar 5, 2008
8,813
13
38
Oceanside, CA
Kinda random, but there were some nugs to be had yesterday at dawn, and I got a few in the short
session I was out in, on the Mandala SC microlight. Lurching, steep drops in the shoulder-overhead range with
a few that ran a bit. Warm water stoke.
 
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