***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal***

SrPato

Miki Dora status
Jul 12, 2005
4,296
17
38
San Buena Ventura
Today was peaky and cleaner sets than yesterday. I paddled out around 7:00 and had a solid hour of fun! I rode the Black Vulture and was not disapoint. I absolutely love this frickin board! The offshores were consistent and helped to hold up the peaks just long enough to make a few late dropins. Never got barreled but had some nice snaps and carves. The only downside was a fin slice over my achilles tendon. Thankfully it's shallow and only a superficial cut.
 

jkb

Phil Edwards status
Feb 22, 2005
6,466
41
48
Oceansuck
Dropped off significantly from yesterday morning to today at the spot I was surfing. Almost half as big. Maybe a tide issue, but I kept thinking, "there have to be bigger sets breaking occasionally."

There weren't.

Grabbed the GMM2 and did some full speed roundhouses. All the county bros decided that today was the day to surf, I guess. Maybe it was because it was a bit more user friendly for them, but damn there were a lot of people and they all decided to sit within 10 feet of me. :cautious:
 

Aruka

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2010
5,663
50
48
PNW
Visited my brother in Portland for a day and then drove out to the coast today to surf one of the more popular hike in spots. Got there pretty early so the crowd wasn't too bad. Waves were actually really fun. Rode my Stamps Twin fish and got about fifty waves. Warm, clear water. Sunny, no wind. Not a bad day other than the six hour drive home after the session. At least the roads were mellow. Tourists are thinning out finally!
 

SrPato

Miki Dora status
Jul 12, 2005
4,296
17
38
San Buena Ventura
Today is definitely smaller but there were still chest to HH sets rolling in. Offshores were a little brisk but the sunrise warmed things up nicely. I had a ridiculous amount of lefts with lots of speed and snaps off the top. About halfway through the session I managed to pull off a picture perfect barrel with a clean exit just as a another guy was paddling out. He gave me props for that one. :shaka:
 

jkb

Phil Edwards status
Feb 22, 2005
6,466
41
48
Oceansuck
It's a miracle from the sweet baby Jesus himself!

Somehow the conditions aligned for me to surf 9x in the last 8 days........all while having a wife, 2 kids under 5, a 9-5 job, and living in a sh!t surf zone like NCSD.

I know. Impossible, you say. But there must have been divine intervention if this was allowed to transpire.
 

teeroi

Michael Peterson status
Oct 21, 2007
2,910
47
48
eastside oahu
Drove by Bowls this morning to dump some rubbish bags in the dumpsters there. Waves were firing. A little overhead very light wind so it had a bump on it. Wasn’t expecting that. No board. Saw some friends in the parking lot. They were surprised too. Came to work instead. But going to try to dawn it tomorrow. Hope you guys are getting some surf too. Shootz.
 

Aruka

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2010
5,663
50
48
PNW
Small runners at my local last night. Wasn't really expecting to surf so I didn't have my fish and despite my house being 2 min. away I stubbornly decided to just take the Phantom out. First couple waves sucked and I felt like I was sinking and getting stuck behind the fast little waves. I totally dig this board but it really doesn't grovel that well. Almost just bagged it after a half hour and few waves of note but then a buddy paddled out so I stayed a bit longer and then I think the tide started pushing because a few fun ones came through. The wind began to die and the surface bump dissipated and a few bigger sets with nice corners came through we each a bunch of really fun waves. This was my friend's first session since his back went out a few weeks ago so he was just frothing to be in the ocean again and his positivity was infectious. I told my buddy how the waves sucked before he came out and he must have some good karma or something. I'm glad I was around to partake in his reward. Ended up staying out until near dark and finished my session with a fun bowled up right that allowed for a few turns.

This afternoon I surfed up North at a kind of odd but sometimes fun cove spot. Waves looked super fun from the cliff and there was no one around so I suited up and ran down. I think the tide was sucking out and killing the energy because I didn't see more than a couple peaks that looked anything like what I saw from the cliff. Chased my tail for an hour and while I didn't get too many good waves I did feel like I surfed the ones I did get pretty well. That didn't really lessen the sting of what was overall a pretty lame session. I'm fine now but it's embarrassing how salty I can get over a bad session like that.
 

teeroi

Michael Peterson status
Oct 21, 2007
2,910
47
48
eastside oahu
Dawn patrolled my regular. Of course everyone was telling me,”wea you wuz? Waves was firing yesterday.”

This morning wasn’t as good. Super high tide with no wind and a crossed up swell. I think the any trades would’ve helped sort it out faster. The high tide was keeping it slow. But there were some fun ones and the occasional head high set. Last wave I got a wrap in front of the boys and I did a little figure 8 cutty with a backside off the lip rebound. Probably not anything to look at but it felt good. On the rebound I reminded myself lift up the nose.

Had some donkeys out. Snaking and a kook beginner on a longboard. It was great I find the have to say anything one of the uncles yelled at the logger and one of the younger guys burned the snake then told him why he got stuffed. There still hope for this world.
 

jkb

Phil Edwards status
Feb 22, 2005
6,466
41
48
Oceansuck
The hot streak continues!

Surfed 13x in the last 12 days. I'm coming for you surfcat!

This morning was small and the tide was a bit too low, but it was the first day since the beginning of summer that I've had my regular spot to myself without anyone else paddling out.

Despite the imperfect conditions, it was glorious just to sit in the line-up alone in a pair of trunks and watch the sun rise and the moon set as I slid around on some waist high peaks without an ounce of concern about kooks getting in my way or attempting to backpaddle me.

I'll take it.
 

teeroi

Michael Peterson status
Oct 21, 2007
2,910
47
48
eastside oahu
Didn’t surf this morning but looks like there’s some surf.

But I got a shot on @pointnshoot808 IG. Must be from last month. Give him a follow he post a bunch of surf shots everyday. Hi performance stuff and Queens logger action.

Don’t know why the pic posted twice. Tried to edit it. Oh well. Wish I got two waves like that for the price of one. Hah


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