Finally started surfing on the reg since moving to LA a year ago. Hit a spot yesterday around 0930 with 2-3ft+ just a few people spread out enough. Lost count, rights & lefts. Fun time.
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I’ll be looking for ya mr sopa. I was mid zone. I had my 14 yr old daughter with me. She was stocked. Big surf for her. A few of us were calling her into sets so she couldn’t back out. Surprised how much swell was sucking in there compared to other spots nearby.Now I have to figure out who urchined is. I'm the guy on the LB, surfed north side.
Second session at PPP was pretty perfect. HH+, glassy and still super clear water. Must have some heavy sand there. Waves not as big as morning, but more concentrated with higher power to size ratio. Somehow managed to get double coverage on one, kid on fish was blown away. He said the fade after coming out of the first was "rad". I laughed and looked at his buddy Derrick, and said, "Derrick's seen me surf a lot better than that". Derrick cracked up. Crowd at PPP is much higher talent level, but wasn't overpacked, only 6 rippers plus another 10 stoked peeps.
Double session, last one was two+ years back. Stocker of a day!
Probably should hang with wife tomorrow.
I'd like to hear the OB/Loma stories. How was NPSP's day?
I surfed OB yesterday. Fun, but insanely crowded with a hungry mix of the usual top dogs plus a bunch of shoulderhoppers on funboards. I packed a barrel, but didn't make it out. A number of the other regulars were suspiciously absent, which leads me to believe another PL spot was firing.I'd like to hear the OB/Loma stories. How was NPSP's day?