xmesa - grew up surfing seal. really got into bodyboarding 97 - stopped surfing for a bit. there were some massive days in august and that fall of 97. I was out with only 2 other guys on one of the biggest days. got probably the biggest barrel of my life. got addicted. Yeah...barba and roach were there during that time - probably earlier 90's. Went out at wedge a few times, but preferred some semi secret spots in laguna.
surfed south side a few times, but was over it when I blew a wave because a camera guy popped up and scared me. last time I went it was like the north shore or something. photogs everywhere, crowded as F. I was over it. probably not a good idea for my old body anymore.