Last time I surfed that spot, I think his blood was still on the rocks.i remember; full chunk from his head.
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Last time I surfed that spot, I think his blood was still on the rocks.i remember; full chunk from his head.
Clean-up set carnage at Lowers around 12:30 or so July 4th.
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This was the beginning of a 15 wave clean-up. Had to be 12-14+ ft faces on the bigger ones, at least. O'side harbor was breaking in front of the main breakwater on this same set a bit earlier. Already seen some massive Wedge footage with solid 30+ ft faces. Probably from same set marching up the coast. This is what So Hemi's are famous for.
Ditched my board and swam straight into a rock reef on a big set breaking in front of me at Leo (at least 8’). 35 stitches to close up a 7” flap of skin from my forehead to behind right ear. That was a stupid mistake on my part. Thanks to the guys in the lineup helping, lifeguards and fire department
black eye is fading away. still got some swelling around the brow and temple. Never really had much pain around the cut area even when i got to the beach. just stinging when the flap was pulled back exposing the flesh under. Got the stitches out today. still have some numbness on the the top of the head. plastic surgeon has been looking at. she said the part on the forehead below the hair line should heel with minimum scaring as the bulk of trauma to the skin was on the top of the head and the skin broke from there. will probably be some scaring in the hair line.How are the black eye(s) now? Black/purple/green/yellow face, too? No pain since day 1-2?
When that thing heals up and you've got a nice scar, people will ask you things like "when did you get brain surgery?".
Nuts! Hows it healing?Ditched my board and swam straight into a rock reef on a big set breaking in front of me at Leo (at least 8’). 35 stitches to close up a 7” flap of skin from my forehead to behind right ear. That was a stupid mistake on my part. Thanks to the guys in the lineup helping, lifeguards and fire department
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Fecal is goofyfoot? Left leaning is genetic!
Yep, I'm cursed.Fecal is goofyfoot? Left leaning is genetic!
black eye is fading away. still got some swelling around the brow and temple. Never really had much pain around the cut area even when i got to the beach. just stinging when the flap was pulled back exposing the flesh under. Got the stitches out today. still have some numbness on the the top of the head. plastic surgeon has been looking at. she said the part on the forehead below the hair line should heel with minimum scaring as the bulk of trauma to the skin was on the top of the head and the skin broke from there. will probably be some scaring in the hair line.
they gave me an antibiotic shot in the ER. the head what docs told me heals fast cause of more blood flow. the lower stitches were seeing significant heeling by 5 days. the bigger ones doc took out as that will help not leaving marks where the stitches were. the nerve activity and numbness later in the afternoon has been a trip.Just In - BLDG Active Skin Repair
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sh!t is magic
I was just down the road in Merry-Land, was super fun today. Believe it or not I'm always a little glad when the summer locals get a little, but now that there was hundreds of smiling students on every street, I can't wait for schools to open back up in the fall. It was like Disneyland, speedbumps everywhere.Delaware today.View attachment 94275
Seems to me only IR and OC inlet get crowds.I was just down the road in Merry-Land, was super fun today. Believe it or not I'm always a little glad when the summer locals get a little, but now that there was hundreds of smiling students on every street, I can't wait for schools to open back up in the fall. It was like Disneyland, speedbumps everywhere.
48th Street would take a close 3rd place to those. 28th-30th were always my go to before moving.Seems to me only IR and OC inlet get crowds.
I haven't surfed either in over 20 years. Mostly go find an empty peak in OC. I can't remember the last time I surfed back home and it was more than a handful of guys out.
Seriously considering making Delaware home base in retirement and spending part of the year there, part in Huatulco and part wherever else we want. I love late August through Thanksgiving on the east coast.
for a small state Delaware has tons of empty beaches.Seems to me only IR and OC inlet get crowds.
I haven't surfed either in over 20 years. Mostly go find an empty peak in OC. I can't remember the last time I surfed back home and it was more than a handful of guys out.
Seriously considering making Delaware home base in retirement and spending part of the year there, part in Huatulco and part wherever else we want. I love late August through Thanksgiving on the east coast.