Who surfed today /

Mar 3, 2017
144
9
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Ditched my board and swam straight into a rock reef on a big set breaking in front of me at Leo (at least 8’). 35 stitches to close up a 7” flap of skin from my forehead to behind right ear. That was a stupid mistake on my part. Thanks to the guys in the lineup helping, lifeguards and fire department
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I'm glad to hear youre ok... i was out when it happened and one of the guys who tried to help on the rocks (had a pink and blue Stamps board). After the ambulance left I wanted to know what ended up happening so I figured i'd check on here and see if anyone was talking about it.

That was one of the gnarliest things and you took it like a champ, talking and staying calm on the beach the whole time... could have been worse, i'm happy to hear youre doing ok
 

studog

Duke status
Jan 15, 2003
35,463
380
83
CA
I'm glad to hear youre ok... i was out when it happened and one of the guys who tried to help on the rocks (had a pink and blue Stamps board). After the ambulance left I wanted to know what ended up happening so I figured i'd check on here and see if anyone was talking about it.

That was one of the gnarliest things and you took it like a champ, talking and staying calm on the beach the whole time... could have been worse, i'm happy to hear youre doing ok
thanks again for the help! I was kind of panicked after surfacing and you guys did help me realize to get in ASAP. was a stupid decision on my part and I didn't see the signs that a rock was right there when I dove.

hope you went back out and got some waves after.
 

studog

Duke status
Jan 15, 2003
35,463
380
83
CA
Did you get anything before the injury is the real question. :)
one wave and it was just only ok. session was maybe 30 minutes. was planning on catching a wave and moving down to the middle. thought I was out far enough on the paddle back out and then a bomb set came and broke just in front of me. either it was try to duck dive it or ditch & swim. I chose wrong.
 
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rts265

Phil Edwards status
Oct 19, 2007
5,709
740
113
one wave and it was just only ok. season was maybe 30 minutes. was planning on catching a wave and moving down to the middle. thought I was out far enough on the paddle back out and then a bomb set came and broke just in front of me. either it was try to duck dive it or ditch & swim. I chose wrong.
If you ducked it your board probably would have been trashed? Maybe that’s better than your skull?
 

plasticbertrand

Michael Peterson status
Jan 12, 2009
2,103
976
113
Perfect 7-8 foot sets and so many barneys on Wavestorms, insane.

I'm all for 'ride what you brang' but holy hell, riding soft tops in pumping surf is just dumb AF.

Heal quick Stu. :drowning:
 

plasticbertrand

Michael Peterson status
Jan 12, 2009
2,103
976
113
terra mar. what do i win?
You was there, wasn't you. :poop:

I guess you have to give them a credit for paddling through all that white water on Wavestorms.

It was a shitshow but a few sets rolled through that made me go like WTF, am I at Trestles?

Perfect, green, head high, rippable walls, just going and going and .....
 

santacruzin

Miki Dora status
Oct 17, 2007
4,721
196
63
valley purgatory
Dam Stu! Glad it wasn’t worse. That’s scary sh!t .
Swell dropped a lot this morning but the fuckery did not

ran over a wavestorm on a screaming set wave . You ride a paddling crutch nd still can’t get out the way!

wtf is wrong with people , why would you paddle out into overhead waves if you don’t have clue hahaha oh well got mine
 

CutnSnip

Gerry Lopez status
Sep 11, 2018
1,352
683
113
Probably dropping in on you, California
Maxed out NCSD beach break Didn’t want to go, friend peer pressured me. We went, paddled and paddled and paddled till we both got denied. This morning much more manageable at the same spot. Proper overhead sets, pretty walled with the occasional corner. More of survival Sesh than surfing but it looked doable and saw some other people get some sick ones. Wish I stayed up in LA wavewise. NCSD was a fun place to be for the fourth tho.
 

plasticbertrand

Michael Peterson status
Jan 12, 2009
2,103
976
113
Maxed out NCSD beach break Didn’t want to go, friend peer pressured me. We went, paddled and paddled and paddled till we both got denied. This morning much more manageable at the same spot. Proper overhead sets, pretty walled with the occasional corner. More of survival Sesh than surfing but it looked doable and saw some other people get some sick ones. Wish I stayed up in LA wavewise. NCSD was a fun place to be for the fourth tho.
Got to hit the reefs bru.
 
Dec 27, 2019
132
131
43
Textbook NorCal pumping south predictably trashed by ripping nw wind. Still had fun on the 4th, tucked into a little semi protected side off inside corner sharing with my daughter. Perfect little chest high peelers running the cobbles. Had to ourselves for an hour while the pack jockeyed and dodged on the outside.

inevitably some thought he was hot sh!t millennial longboard kook didn’t read the room and figured it was high time to work on his cross step by paddling around us and picking off not one, not two, but count em four in row before I told my daughter to go as he was spinning for number five.

Blocking never felt so good. stuffed the dipshit onto the dry reef. Daughter paddled back out trying to hold back a big grin. Best part was I got a “thanks daddy, that’s the best wave I got all day”

made my holiday