Who surfed today /

rts265

Phil Edwards status
Oct 19, 2007
5,709
740
113
I got one solid wave the entire swell and it closed out

decided to rest today and the local looked like it picked up some windswell. Oof
 

Surfdog

Duke status
Apr 22, 2001
18,539
714
113
Oceanside,CA
Clean-up set carnage at Lowers around 12:30 or so July 4th.

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This was the beginning of a 15 wave clean-up. Had to be 12-14+ ft faces on the bigger ones, at least. O'side harbor was breaking in front of the main breakwater on this same set a bit earlier. Already seen some massive Wedge footage with solid 30+ ft faces. Probably from same set marching up the coast. This is what So Hemi's are famous for.
 

CutnSnip

Gerry Lopez status
Sep 11, 2018
1,352
683
113
Probably dropping in on you, California
Clean-up set carnage at Lowers around 12:30 or so July 4th.

View attachment 93998

View attachment 93999

This was the beginning of a 15 wave clean-up. Had to be 12-14+ ft faces on the bigger ones, at least. O'side harbor was breaking in front of the main breakwater on this same set a bit earlier. Already seen some massive Wedge footage with solid 30+ ft faces. Probably from same set marching up the coast. This is what So Hemi's are famous for.

was down in Oside on the 4th. Macking.
 

_____

Miki Dora status
Sep 17, 2012
5,061
648
113
Ditched my board and swam straight into a rock reef on a big set breaking in front of me at Leo (at least 8’). 35 stitches to close up a 7” flap of skin from my forehead to behind right ear. That was a stupid mistake on my part. Thanks to the guys in the lineup helping, lifeguards and fire department

How are the black eye(s) now? Black/purple/green/yellow face, too? No pain since day 1-2?
When that thing heals up and you've got a nice scar, people will ask you things like "when did you get brain surgery?". :D
 

studog

Duke status
Jan 15, 2003
35,463
380
83
CA
How are the black eye(s) now? Black/purple/green/yellow face, too? No pain since day 1-2?
When that thing heals up and you've got a nice scar, people will ask you things like "when did you get brain surgery?". :D
black eye is fading away. still got some swelling around the brow and temple. Never really had much pain around the cut area even when i got to the beach. just stinging when the flap was pulled back exposing the flesh under. Got the stitches out today. still have some numbness on the the top of the head. plastic surgeon has been looking at. she said the part on the forehead below the hair line should heel with minimum scaring as the bulk of trauma to the skin was on the top of the head and the skin broke from there. will probably be some scaring in the hair line.
 

Chocki

Legend (inyourownmind)
Feb 18, 2007
434
185
43
Planet Earth
black eye is fading away. still got some swelling around the brow and temple. Never really had much pain around the cut area even when i got to the beach. just stinging when the flap was pulled back exposing the flesh under. Got the stitches out today. still have some numbness on the the top of the head. plastic surgeon has been looking at. she said the part on the forehead below the hair line should heel with minimum scaring as the bulk of trauma to the skin was on the top of the head and the skin broke from there. will probably be some scaring in the hair line.

sh!t is magic
 

studog

Duke status
Jan 15, 2003
35,463
380
83
CA

sh!t is magic
they gave me an antibiotic shot in the ER. the head what docs told me heals fast cause of more blood flow. the lower stitches were seeing significant heeling by 5 days. the bigger ones doc took out as that will help not leaving marks where the stitches were. the nerve activity and numbness later in the afternoon has been a trip.
 

TeamScam

Miki Dora status
Jan 14, 2002
3,841
77
48
Mid-Atlantic
I was just down the road in Merry-Land, was super fun today. Believe it or not I'm always a little glad when the summer locals get a little, but now that there was hundreds of smiling students on every street, I can't wait for schools to open back up in the fall. It was like Disneyland, speedbumps everywhere.
 
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gbg

Michael Peterson status
Jan 22, 2006
1,872
672
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I was just down the road in Merry-Land, was super fun today. Believe it or not I'm always a little glad when the summer locals get a little, but now that there was hundreds of smiling students on every street, I can't wait for schools to open back up in the fall. It was like Disneyland, speedbumps everywhere.
Seems to me only IR and OC inlet get crowds.

I haven't surfed either in over 20 years. Mostly go find an empty peak in OC. I can't remember the last time I surfed back home and it was more than a handful of guys out.

Seriously considering making Delaware home base in retirement and spending part of the year there, part in Huatulco and part wherever else we want. I love late August through Thanksgiving on the east coast.
 
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Feb 3, 2015
76
15
8
LA County
Seems to me only IR and OC inlet get crowds.

I haven't surfed either in over 20 years. Mostly go find an empty peak in OC. I can't remember the last time I surfed back home and it was more than a handful of guys out.

Seriously considering making Delaware home base in retirement and spending part of the year there, part in Huatulco and part wherever else we want. I love late August through Thanksgiving on the east coast.
48th Street would take a close 3rd place to those. 28th-30th were always my go to before moving.
 
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potato-nator

Miki Dora status
Nov 10, 2015
3,762
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Seems to me only IR and OC inlet get crowds.

I haven't surfed either in over 20 years. Mostly go find an empty peak in OC. I can't remember the last time I surfed back home and it was more than a handful of guys out.

Seriously considering making Delaware home base in retirement and spending part of the year there, part in Huatulco and part wherever else we want. I love late August through Thanksgiving on the east coast.
for a small state Delaware has tons of empty beaches.
 

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
22,130
860
113
flat days, when i dont bother surfing = less stress
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