Who surfed today /

santacruzin

Miki Dora status
Oct 17, 2007
4,721
196
63
valley purgatory
It was really really good for an hour this morning it looked like epic Salina Cruz


all time fuckery too!
Nothing like racing down the line on a top to bottom wave about to barrel and seeing a kook go over the fall holding a longboard

happy fourth erbb
 

studog

Duke status
Jan 15, 2003
35,463
380
83
CA
Ditched my board and swam straight into a rock reef on a big set breaking in front of me at Leo (at least 8’). 35 stitches to close up a 7” flap of skin from my forehead to behind right ear. That was a stupid mistake on my part. Thanks to the guys in the lineup helping, lifeguards and fire department
CF8384AE-623C-4FE4-81FC-CF70F80BC922.jpeg
 

Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
16,862
4,112
113
Your mom�s house
Ditched my board and swam straight into a rock reef on a big set breaking in front of me at Leo (at least 8’). 35 stitches to close up a 7” flap of skin from my forehead to behind right ear. That was a stupid mistake on my part. Thanks to the guys in the lineup helping, lifeguards and fire department
View attachment 93918
Death to America!!!!!!
 

Drumsurf

Gerry Lopez status
Nov 4, 2012
1,268
38
48
Beach
Surfed. Scored a few bombs then had a kook try and duck dive a mid length while I was up on a set wave. Board shot out behind him and hit me in both legs and took me out. I lost my sh!t and told him to go in. Never done that before.
 
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Autoprax

Duke status
Jan 24, 2011
39,496
3,201
113
58
Vagina Point
Ditched my board and swam straight into a rock reef on a big set breaking in front of me at Leo (at least 8’). 35 stitches to close up a 7” flap of skin from my forehead to behind right ear. That was a stupid mistake on my part. Thanks to the guys in the lineup helping, lifeguards and fire department
View attachment 93918
With the head dress you look like the shoe bomber. :ROFLMAO:
 
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ringer

Tom Curren status
Aug 2, 2002
11,025
72
48
Huntington Beach, California
Today, the south side of Huntington Pier was just about as big as it ever gets aside from the historic
El Nino storms. Zero people were out on the south side today, which equals the number of those who would have been out at that spot even absent the beach closure.
 

llilibel03

Phil Edwards status
Jul 28, 2005
6,265
884
113
Ditched my board and swam straight into a rock reef on a big set breaking in front of me at Leo (at least 8’). 35 stitches to close up a 7” flap of skin from my forehead to behind right ear. That was a stupid mistake on my part. Thanks to the guys in the lineup helping, lifeguards and fire department
View attachment 93918
Ouch!

Now I have to ask- were you back paddling the pack to get into pole position? Because then it would be Karma.
 
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Leaverite

Phil Edwards status
Dec 19, 2017
6,740
562
113
Central Cal
Ditched my board and swam straight into a rock reef on a big set breaking in front of me at Leo (at least 8’). 35 stitches to close up a 7” flap of skin from my forehead to behind right ear. That was a stupid mistake on my part. Thanks to the guys in the lineup helping, lifeguards and fire department
View attachment 93918
You look like one of those Americas Most Wanted, ISIS commander pics.

Heal up quick!!!!
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
24,626
2,346
113
Tower 13
Damn stu dog! That sucks!

small where I was. chest to 2 ft overhead closeouts with some sh!t tweeners that weren't as shitty as the sets. rushed home to family and hiked, then did house sh!t, then hung out with more family. pretty epic day. would have been better if I goto good waves but oh well
 

LifeOnMars

Legend (inyourownmind)
Jan 14, 2020
428
214
43
Ditched my board and swam straight into a rock reef on a big set breaking in front of me at Leo (at least 8’). 35 stitches to close up a 7” flap of skin from my forehead to behind right ear. That was a stupid mistake on my part. Thanks to the guys in the lineup helping, lifeguards and fire department
time to lose the beard, you look like a terrorist
 
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