Who surfed today /

keenfish

Duke status
May 12, 2002
15,792
600
113
Trona
www.pbase.com
Ditched my board and swam straight into a rock reef on a big set breaking in front of me at Leo (at least 8’). 35 stitches to close up a 7” flap of skin from my forehead to behind right ear. That was a stupid mistake on my part. Thanks to the guys in the lineup helping, lifeguards and fire department
View attachment 93918
Got damm stu glad you're alright bru!!

You don't look anything like your ava btw. :)

Get well and stay well. :shaka:
 
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Subway

Phil Edwards status
Dec 31, 2008
7,157
863
113
LBNY
sunrise yoga this morning on the beach right down the block, mrs subway teaching, 9 other students besides myself!! then a good vigorous swim afterwards. not a bad Monday morning. Ocean is flat of course.
 

Chocki

Legend (inyourownmind)
Feb 18, 2007
434
187
43
Planet Earth
one wave and it was just only ok. session was maybe 30 minutes. was planning on catching a wave and moving down to the middle. thought I was out far enough on the paddle back out and then a bomb set came and broke just in front of me. either it was try to duck dive it or ditch & swim. I chose wrong.
sh!t happens. Stocked you didn’t break your neck. It would suck to be reading how Studog drowned.
 
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rice

Duke status
Jul 2, 2002
23,361
403
83
CA
Ditched my board and swam straight into a rock reef on a big set breaking in front of me at Leo (at least 8’). 35 stitches to close up a 7” flap of skin from my forehead to behind right ear. That was a stupid mistake on my part. Thanks to the guys in the lineup helping, lifeguards and fire department
View attachment 93918
Ouch, bummer. Sorry!
 

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
19,414
883
113
San Francisco, CA
A friend cut up his foot on the 3rd slipping on a rock on the way out. He thinks the barnacles got him. Said the way back to the car was a chore, getting to the hospital was terrible*, and the clean out in the emergency room had him blacking out from pain (says he isn't sure if they gave him a shot for pain or not).

Don't have the open wound photo, do have the post stitch photo:

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* - I wonder how he is going to like cleaning out the driver's side floor mat.
 

Boneroni

Tom Curren status
Mar 5, 2012
10,860
230
63
Goleta
Ho lee fuk stu! Glad you're okay. I've played chicken with that rock too many times and simply gotten lucky.

I surfed on the 4th. Hopped a fence and hiked in to decent beach break. Saw a decent sized shark pretty early in the session, so I surfed the inside bar and drifted down to where other people were for a while.
Ended up doing 4 run arounds for probably 5-6 miles of walking total.
I'm glad I had a lot of time. It was one of those days where you see great waves everywhere but where you are. Probably a solid 3 hours of paddling to chase sets down and escape the rips.

I lucked into my share though :waving: