I'm glad to hear youre ok... i was out when it happened and one of the guys who tried to help on the rocks (had a pink and blue Stamps board). After the ambulance left I wanted to know what ended up happening so I figured i'd check on here and see if anyone was talking about it.Ditched my board and swam straight into a rock reef on a big set breaking in front of me at Leo (at least 8’). 35 stitches to close up a 7” flap of skin from my forehead to behind right ear. That was a stupid mistake on my part. Thanks to the guys in the lineup helping, lifeguards and fire department
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That was one of the gnarliest things and you took it like a champ, talking and staying calm on the beach the whole time... could have been worse, i'm happy to hear youre doing ok