Stocked to be surfing again!

[brukuns]

Dear diary,

6ft @ 13s expected for the weekend. Might be a good idea to get a new pair of pants. It will be a game of dodging closeouts 95% of the time and maybe finding a corner or two. I wish we had a cobblestone point somewhere.

 

[SurfFuerteventura]

Ben Aipa Swell out here.. going NUTS!!!

 

[brukuns]

6ft at 13s is Ben Aipa swell for me. lol.

Again, a point would make things very different. Not the greatest fan of paddling out on beach breaks when the impact zonehas thick sandy bombs exploding in your head

But you do what you gotta do.

 

[SurfFuerteventura]

I admire your gusto... I'm over beach breaks unless it's sunny warm boardies weather and the summer trade winds are all there is to surf.

 

[brukuns]

I admire your gusto... I'm over beach breaks unless it's sunny warm boardies weather and the summer trade winds are all there is to surf.

Don't. If I had any points or cobblestone/rock set ups anywhere near me I would never surf a beach break again!

When life gives you lemons...

 

[brukuns]

hahaha... they just yellow lit this big wave event down south here in Brazil that I didn't even know existed!

I really wanna shred the gnar, but I think the gnar is gonna shred me!

 

[SurfFuerteventura]

Don't. If I had any points or cobblestone/rock set ups anywhere near me I would never surf a beach break again!

When life gives you lemons...

I was born in Washington DC.

No beach cept for the Potomac River banks there.... Specially no points, cobble stone, reef, or volcanic rock. Not even a breakwall to speak of....

Thus, Fuerteventura, Islas Canarias. Home of the 4 best Right hand points in the Island chain, least populated (back when we moved here) and cheapest to buy land (again, back when we moved here).

Lately looking at El Hierro or La Palma, no surf, but some of the best scuba diving anywhere.

...Surfing.... Starting to be over it.

But then, get a swell like this last one, and even though it breaks me physically, it reminds me of why I always keep coming back.

Triste que antes, en un día grande, dominaba el pico eligiendo la ola y serie, ahora solo dos o tres y para casa a lamerme las heridas!



Phuck lemons, and the lemonade it rode in on..... RELOCATE BRAH!!!! It's the 21 century yo!

 

[ZeeHawk]

Nice one Bruk! Sick looking surf! Similar story. I had a couple a kids and moved a few hours away from the coast for nearly 20 years. Got back to it with a house at the beach 4 years ago and finally feel like I've got it back. The body is a lot older but back in shape and surfing every day. Life is good brother!

 

[brukuns]

I was born in Washington DC.

No beach cept for the Potomac River banks there.... Specially no points, cobble stone, reef, or volcanic rock. Not even a breakwall to speak of....

Thus, Fuerteventura, Islas Canarias. Home of the 4 best Right hand points in the Island chain, least populated (back when we moved here) and cheapest to buy land (again, back when we moved here).

Lately looking at El Hierro or La Palma, no surf, but some of the best scuba diving anywhere.

...Surfing.... Starting to be over it.

But then, get a swell like this last one, and even though it breaks me physically, it reminds me of why I always keep coming back.

Triste que antes, en un día grande, dominaba el pico eligiendo la ola y serie, ahora solo dos o tres y para casa a lamerme las heridas!



Phuck lemons, and the lemonade it rode in on..... RELOCATE BRAH!!!! It's the 21 century yo!

Oh man, I wish I could. I have too much to lose moving out. Lots of close family really close to me. And not a troubled family either, but a very. loving family that helps more than I could have hoped.

I think if I moved closer to the coast I would probably surf even less having no one to leave my kid with.

PS: Eu ainda estaria feliz surfando 2 ou 3 ondas em um dia grande, nem precisaria dominar o pico. Mas quando está realmente grande eu normalmente fico desviando das bombas e remando sem sucesso nas intermediárias até eu desistir depois de algumas horas e voltar pra praia na espumeira/white water mesmo. hahaha

I managed to understand your spanish even though I don't speak any, can you handle this portuguese?

 

[SurfFuerteventura]

Translation results
Todavía sería feliz surfeando 2 o 3 olas en un gran día, ni necesitaría dominar la cima. Pero cuando es realmente grande, suelo esquivar las bombas y remar sin éxito en el medio hasta que me doy por vencido después de unas horas y regreso a la playa en la espuma / agua blanca.

Google traductor brah!

claro que sí!!!

wish we could teleport you out here for a decent groomed swell, I could take you out, show you where to sit, scream at you like the girlie man that you are, and inevitably get you into one of those long drawn out point waves that just keep walling up and giving more and more when you think they are gonna back off.




Just one of those long ones out at Lobos and you'd have Stonke for your memory banks until the neurons go afray.

 

[brukuns]

Translation results
Todavía sería feliz surfeando 2 o 3 olas en un gran día, ni necesitaría dominar la cima. Pero cuando es realmente grande, suelo esquivar las bombas y remar sin éxito en el medio hasta que me doy por vencido después de unas horas y regreso a la playa en la espuma / agua blanca.

Google traductor brah!

claro que sí!!!

wish we could teleport you out here for a decent groomed swell, I could take you out, show you where to sit, scream at you like the girlie man that you are, and inevitably get you into one of those long drawn out point waves that just keep walling up and giving more and more when you think they are gonna back off.




Just one of those long ones out at Lobos and you'd have Stonke for your memory banks until the neurons go afray.

I'd be honored to be yelled at.

 

[SurfFuerteventura]

Wanna video chat?

Got some spare pent up teenage angst to spare.

 

[SurfFuerteventura]

Limpiarle el culo a tu madre de 87 cuando se parece al Golgothan de Dogma te enseña a aprender humildad muy muy rápido.

 

[One-Off]

I'm going to surf tomorrow after being sidelined for two months with the 14 stitch finger laceration that kept reopening. Wish me luck. I'm probably going to be kooking pretty hard, although the waves look small so I can longboard without shame...

 

[Subway]

i had a depressing swell early this week. call me gayee (not that there is anything wrong with that) but i had hit a new PB on a 45 minute peloton ride on Sunday, despite an aching back (probably Dr Sarno style anger and stress back ache, but still hurts irregardless) then shoveled really wet heavy snow monday morning for 2 hours (15 inches that drifted all on to our side of the block, so it was more like 2 feet) and then paddled out alone into well overhead beach break with strong offshores. there is a reliable rip that helped me make it out pretty easily, only a few duck dives. then took off on what looked like a perfect hollow right hander, only to get blasted by the closeout, and then after battling with a set that seemed to go on for 10-15 minutes, just went in. sore, exhausted, cold, full body ice cream headache, but mostly dispirited. paddled out the next morning for what i hoped would be the smaller but fun consolation surf, but it was a LOT smaller and tide was getting too high and was barely rideable.

 

[brukuns]

Feeling kinda nervous for this Sunday. I already committed with my friend, I have to go. The tropical cyclone got stronger, we're talking now almost 8ft (2.4m) at 14s at its peak (which will be Sunday, fuck!)

At least it will be really good and fun the entire week.looking forward so much more for the tail end of the swell... But, magic truly happens when we go out of our comfort zone... we'll see.

 

[Subway]

Feeling kinda nervous for this Sunday. I already committed with my friend, I have to go. The tropical cyclone got stronger, we're talking now almost 8ft (2.4m) at 14s at its peak (which will be Sunday, fook!)

At least it will be really good and fun the entire week.looking forward so much more for the tail end of the swell... But, magic truly happens when we go out of our comfort zone... we'll see.

Charge it if you got it. Carpe diem

 

[20W-50 and blood]

i had hit a new PB on a 45 minute peloton ride on Sunday, despite an aching back (probably Dr Sarno style anger and stress back ache, but still hurts irregardless) then shoveled really wet heavy snow monday morning for 2 hours (15 inches that drifted all on to our side of the block, so it was more like 2 feet)

alright carnal...please trnslate...the fug does ANY of that mean?

 

[HarryLopez2]

Feeling kinda nervous for this Sunday. I already committed with my friend, I have to go. The tropical cyclone got stronger, we're talking now almost 8ft (2.4m) at 14s at its peak (which will be Sunday, fook!)

At least it will be really good and fun the entire week.looking forward so much more for the tail end of the swell... But, magic truly happens when we go out of our comfort zone... we'll see.

It's the lemon next to the pie. Eat that pie, and love it! My last trip to the coast had me try to get out for 3 hours, not succesful. And, I loved every minute of it. well, maybe not every minute, but most of them!

 

[Subway]

alright carnal...please trnslate...the fug does ANY of that mean?

Dios mio, if you of all people don’t understand me, you who speaks and types in like 8 different spanglo-anglo-creole and drunken cyber-punk internet lingos, I don’t know what to say

cliffs notes- couple hard indoor bike rides and snow shoveling (don’t recommend) equals whiny 41 year old being sore and tired and quickly exhausted by 15 minutes of duck diving overhead surf in sub freezing air and 42 degree water a day later