So you got subwayed by Subway's exercise program?Dios mio, if you of all people don’t understand me, you who speaks and types in like 8 different spanglo-anglo-creole and drunken cyber-punk internet lingos, I don’t know what to say
cliffs notes- couple hard indoor bike rides and snow shoveling (don’t recommend) equals whiny 41 year old being sore and tired and quickly exhausted by 15 minutes of duck diving overhead surf in sub freezing air and 42 degree water a day later
REMINDER: THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to monitor the Forums. However, THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to review any materials submitted to or posted on the Forums, and remove, delete, redact or otherwise modify such materials, in its sole discretion and for any reason whatsoever, at any time and from time to time, without notice or further obligation to you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to display or post any materials provided by you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to disclose, at any time and from time to time, any information or materials that we deem necessary or appropriate to satisfy any applicable law, regulation, contract obligation, legal or dispute process or government request. Click on the following hyperlinks to further read the applicable Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.
Stocked to be surfing again!
- Thread starter brukuns
- Start date
You're possibly too young to remember Ricardo Montalbán? "It doesn't matter how you feel baby, as long as you look amazing!"
I was one of Recardo's henchmen in the first show of Hawaii50 ,filmed at Henry J. Kaiser's home out at Portlock Point on Oahu's east side. Montalban played a Japanese king pin and McGarrett was after the dirty crook ~ "Samurai" was the first episode in the series of Five O.You're possibly too young to remember Ricardo Montalbán? "It doesn't matter how you feel baby, as long as you look amazing!"
I was one of Recardo's henchmen in the first show of Hawaii50 ,filmed at Henry J. Kaiser's home out at Portlock Point on Oahu's east side. Montalban played a Japanese king pin and McGarrett was after the dirty crook ~ "Samurai" was the first episode in the series of Five O.
You'll surely get a kick out of this...
Remember his Fantasy Island role? And "Tattoo"? Herve Vilchez? His catch phrase at the start of each show? "Dee Plane! Dee Plane!" .... That's what my wife mutters whenever she hears my mom stirring about nextdoor.... "Dee Cane! Dee Cane!".
Thought about this today.
Surfed this morning, end of a big swell that hit us. Oh man, it was so perfect and fun I wanna cry.
Just overhead on most of the sets (still a few smaller or bigger here and there), glassy, peaky, 83f water, air was not too hot, just enough clouds on the horizon to cover the sun but colorful sky otherwise, and the best of all, I was actually surfing great for my ability!
This must have been my best surf session in years, seriously. Got so many good ones, everything working out, fuck, I wanna go back.
Now to work...
About the big swell, I totally pussed out, but it's ok, it was today that was looking forward to and it paid in spades!
The day just after the big swell, that's where you can always find me.
I almost forgot, there were no crowds at all... It was pretty much pick and choose on a perfect day for 3 hours. Ridiculous. It should be like this every fucking day.
Did a follow up sesh today (even though I could barely lift my arms). Much smaller but still decent, and still lots of bigger sets every now and then. Not at the gated spot this time because my buddy wasn't with me, went alone... but very manageable crowds.
It was worth the trip, caught a few fun ones. One in particular, the wall was so glassy, emerald green, I even missed the first chance for a top turn because I kept looking at it dreaming it would barrel. hahaha. I was still able to push a cutback all the way through before the pretty thing died down. Fun times.
Thinking of going tomorrow again, there may be a small reinforcement so it could be bigger than today... but it's been 2 days in a row waking up 3am to get on the road, surf and then travel back in time for a full day's a work... I gotta sleep...
It was worth the trip, caught a few fun ones. One in particular, the wall was so glassy, emerald green, I even missed the first chance for a top turn because I kept looking at it dreaming it would barrel. hahaha. I was still able to push a cutback all the way through before the pretty thing died down. Fun times.
Thinking of going tomorrow again, there may be a small reinforcement so it could be bigger than today... but it's been 2 days in a row waking up 3am to get on the road, surf and then travel back in time for a full day's a work... I gotta sleep...
Really fun session today before work! Consistent chest high and a few head high sets rolling through, perfect conditions.
Crowded as I wasn't on the gated spot I usually go to but it was like most surfers weren't really trying to position themselves, so it was easy to catch a bunch of waves. One or two guys wanted to paddle deeper than me just after paddling back but I pulled a Medina and kept paddling deeper until they got the message.
Oddly after a couple hours it got less crowded but the lazy crowd was replaced by competent hungry dudes which made things harder. Still caught a few good ones before going in and traveling back home to work.
2 very fun lefts on my backside, a couple turns in on each, many quick rights training my terrible cutback, but what I'll remember was hitting a closeout section that felt so fucking good (I would usually get out the back when I see a sandy section closing out but I'm feeling less of a kook so I went for it!)
At this point I'm going back to just being a not really good at all surfer and ditching all of the kookery. No more standing up and getting left behind, no more falling on my head. Going for it more on waves I would pull back and catching eaves more easily overall.
And now a swell is lining up to give us 3 days straight of perfect overhead surf (not to mention the tail end that will still be fun). This has been the best summer here I can remember. This shithole is delivering the goods!
Crowded as I wasn't on the gated spot I usually go to but it was like most surfers weren't really trying to position themselves, so it was easy to catch a bunch of waves. One or two guys wanted to paddle deeper than me just after paddling back but I pulled a Medina and kept paddling deeper until they got the message.
Oddly after a couple hours it got less crowded but the lazy crowd was replaced by competent hungry dudes which made things harder. Still caught a few good ones before going in and traveling back home to work.
2 very fun lefts on my backside, a couple turns in on each, many quick rights training my terrible cutback, but what I'll remember was hitting a closeout section that felt so fucking good (I would usually get out the back when I see a sandy section closing out but I'm feeling less of a kook so I went for it!)
At this point I'm going back to just being a not really good at all surfer and ditching all of the kookery. No more standing up and getting left behind, no more falling on my head. Going for it more on waves I would pull back and catching eaves more easily overall.
And now a swell is lining up to give us 3 days straight of perfect overhead surf (not to mention the tail end that will still be fun). This has been the best summer here I can remember. This shithole is delivering the goods!
Karim has had us on RedAlert for over a week now. So happy that fukka is gone past and slamming continental EU, cause one more day of offshore 6' perfect and I was gonna kill myself happy in the knowledge that it wouldn't ever be this good again whilst I am physically able to still surf.
Glad to get some rest.
Been going every day, some days twice!
Glad to get some rest.
Been going every day, some days twice!
Brukuns you should be posting in design forum community surf journal.
No one in the main forum actually surfs they just trade cryptocurrency, argue about covid charts and talk about coffee makers they will never actually buy.
edit: just to be clear, I'm joking. this is a great thread with mucho stock.
No one in the main forum actually surfs they just trade cryptocurrency, argue about covid charts and talk about coffee makers they will never actually buy.
edit: just to be clear, I'm joking. this is a great thread with mucho stock.
Last edited:
Congratulations on both your kid and getting to surf again. Both are a blessing.
Yeeew, today was the third day in a row of good waves. Spent the weekend at my buddy's place So I got to surf Saturday and Sunday. I was home today but I still did the long drive to surf the last good day of this swell. It held basically the same size for 3 days straight (chest high to just overhead on take off).
Swell was there and no wind at all every morning, only detail was the tide that was too high and still draining every day I surfed. It was still good, but could be a lot "racier" if the low tide coincided with the excellent wind conditions in the morning.
I even found this pic online of a measly check turn. I'll still take it, barely have any images of me surfing. So helpful too, I see I need to open up a lot more and focus on leading with my arms.
Swell was there and no wind at all every morning, only detail was the tide that was too high and still draining every day I surfed. It was still good, but could be a lot "racier" if the low tide coincided with the excellent wind conditions in the morning.
I even found this pic online of a measly check turn. I'll still take it, barely have any images of me surfing. So helpful too, I see I need to open up a lot more and focus on leading with my arms.
Another fun swell with good conditions from a tropical cyclone starting tomorrow and will last the entire week. Sweet!