Stocked to be surfing again!

[brukuns]

Also remember I mentioned I busted my knee running too much a few months ago?

It wasn't hurting for a while, even if I walked too much. So I decided to try my luck and just ran 4km to test it and no pain whatsoever, I think that injury is behind me now!! This is great because it's so much easier and quicker to stay in shape by running. I just ran for less than 30 minutes and I'm soaking wet... I don't get even close to that by biking for more than 1:30 hrs. And I don't care what people say, swimming (as wonderful as it may be) simply does not burn as many calories as running (standard response is "you don't notice how much you sweat because you're in the water"... I call BS).

 

[PRCD]

Also remember I mentioned I busted my knee running too much a few months ago?

It wasn't hurting for a while, even if I walked too much. So I decided to try my luck and just ran 4km to test it and no pain whatsoever, I think that injury is behind me now!! This is great because it's so much easier and quicker to stay in shape by running. I just ran for less than 30 minutes and I'm soaking wet... I don't get even close to that by biking for more than 1:30 hrs. And I don't care what people say, swimming (as wonderful as it may be) simply does not burn as many calories as running (standard response is "you don't notice how much you sweat because you're in the water"... I call BS).

lots of things start hurting when you have kids and a family to provide for.

 

[Subway]

they hurt with no kids too, but that just may be selling OOH in the middle of a pandemic

surfed some weird but fun little shorebreak this morning.

 

[Aquaman2]

Yes I'm stoked that you are stocked.

 

[brukuns]

Fun surf today. new swell clealy in the water, decent, had some power, but tide was just too high.

Still got a few fun ones, it was definitely worth the trip.

 

[JBerry]

Fun surf today. new swell clealy in the water, decent, had some power, but tide was just too high.

Still got a few fun ones, it was definitely worth the trip.

How long is a one way trip to the nearest surf for you?

 

[SurfFuerteventura]

Fun surf today. new swell clealy in the water, decent, had some power, but tide was just too high.

Still got a few fun ones, it was definitely worth the trip.

que bueno!

a mi me toca desde mañana hasta la navidad un SWELL de cojones!!!

Woot, woot, woot!

Merry brasileiro Xmas BruKuns!!!

 

[brukuns]

How long is a one way trip to the nearest surf for you?

Around 1 hour. But I go to a spot a bit further away, 1:50hs one way, better and less crowded.

 

[brukuns]

Funky but fun overhead waves this morning, I can't believe we're having these in Summer

Bagged a few good ones, only rights today. More to come after xmas!

 

[SurfFuerteventura]

Funky but fun overhead waves this morning, I can't believe we're having these in Summer

Bagged a few good ones, only rights today. More to come after xmas!

STOKED 4 U!!!!

surfers torture over here, good swell, good winds, only week i could get s crew out to pour cement. with 4 rescue dogs, 2 of which are considered "dangerous breeds", and the house entrance wide open to the street. No bueno.

 

[brukuns]

Good swell on tap so I went for a surf alone last Friday and then again on Monday.

Surfing will do that to you... I was feeling fit having surfed quite a lot lately and the swell on Friday was supposed to be really fun with some power and excellent winds. It looked perfect and I had high expectations but I just couldn't make it work.

Conditions were my achilles heel, semi closing out and the ones opening up would stand up too fast, so by the time I feel the "glide" trying to catch it, it has already turned square and I'm not there yet. So I either pull back or free fall (and trust me, I usually just pull back. hahaha).

Gotta be honest, also pulled back on a few makeable ones for lack of balls and I always kick myself after doing it. But what really annoyed me were the ones I really wanted but couldn't catch! It was frustrating feeling like I couldn't paddle fast enough even though I was actually feeling fit. Barely caught any waves that day.

Then on Monday I went again (this time on a different break)... just a tad smaller, but the same type of really racy wave that turns square as soon as it touches the bank. I did just a bit better but it was still frustrating as fuck. painful to watch some guys having the time of their life around me while I constantly paddle my ass off just to be late for catching the damn runners! Many barrels being ridden and I'm basically paddling and barely doing any surfing. There was even a crazy slab going off a little further south and I could see this guy in a helmet getting gnarly barrel after gnarly barrel on basically dry sand. I felt like the biggest kook ever.

I'm starting to feel some pain on my elbow probably from surfing too much, not sure if it has affected my paddling power somehow, actually hoping it did . Maybe the holiday weight did a trick on me too, but I think it's just kookiness.

Oh well, there's a lot of swell lining up for early January so I'll just keep trying. It's looking like it's going to be an epic summer for waves here, the amount of swell we're getting looks a lot more like fall then summer and it's awesome!

 

[brukuns]

Squeezed a little sesh this morning before work. Went for the closest spot instead of driving down to my friend's gated spot, regretted it very quickly once I realized how thick the crowd was (no currents, no paddle out, a nightmare).

Still feeling like I was missing too many waves... frustrating... I realized it's been a while since I did any swimming (pretty much only surfing), I think that + the holiday weight must have something to do with it. Plus it was kinda fast again.

At least a caught a very nice one to make the drive down worth it (and most importantly to make me few a bit less of a kook).

I spent the entire month of December smoking weed like there's no tomorrow and fulfilling any munchies thrown my way while not doing any exercise besides surfing (which at least I did quite a lot). Time to discipline myself again and lose a few pounds, it seems the excess weight is getting in the way.

 

[SurfFuerteventura]

Squeezed a little sesh this morning before work. Went for the closest spot instead of driving down to my friend's gated spot, regretted it very quickly once I realized how thick the crowd was (no currents, no paddle out, a nightmare).

Still feeling like I was missing too many waves... frustrating... I realized it's been a while since I did any swimming (pretty much only surfing), I think that + the holiday weight must have something to do with it. Plus it was kinda fast again.

At least a caught a very nice one to make the drive down worth it (and most importantly to make me few a bit less of a kook).

I spent the entire month of December smoking weed like there's no tomorrow and fulfilling any munchies thrown my way while not doing any exercise besides surfing (which at least I did quite a lot). Time to discipline myself again and lose a few pounds, it seems the excess weight is getting in the way.

WeeD is good.

NickKron would approve of this post.

 

[TeamScam]

Good swell on tap so I went for a surf alone last Friday and then again on Monday.

Surfing will do that to you... I was feeling fit having surfed quite a lot lately and the swell on Friday was supposed to be really fun with some power and excellent winds. It looked perfect and I had high expectations but I just couldn't make it work.

Conditions were my achilles heel, semi closing out and the ones opening up would stand up too fast, so by the time I feel the "glide" trying to catch it, it has already turned square and I'm not there yet. So I either pull back or free fall (and trust me, I usually just pull back. hahaha).

Gotta be honest, also pulled back on a few makeable ones for lack of balls and I always kick myself after doing it. But what really annoyed me were the ones I really wanted but couldn't catch! It was frustrating feeling like I couldn't paddle fast enough even though I was actually feeling fit. Barely caught any waves that day.

Then on Monday I went again (this time on a different break)... just a tad smaller, but the same type of really racy wave that turns square as soon as it touches the bank. I did just a bit better but it was still frustrating as fook. painful to watch some guys having the time of their life around me while I constantly paddle my ass off just to be late for catching the damn runners! Many barrels being ridden and I'm basically paddling and barely doing any surfing. There was even a crazy slab going off a little further south and I could see this guy in a helmet getting gnarly barrel after gnarly barrel on basically dry sand. I felt like the biggest kook ever.

I'm starting to feel some pain on my elbow probably from surfing too much, not sure if it has affected my paddling power somehow, actually hoping it did . Maybe the holiday weight did a trick on me too, but I think it's just kookiness.

Oh well, there's a lot of swell lining up for early January so I'll just keep trying. It's looking like it's going to be an epic summer for waves here, the amount of swell we're getting looks a lot more like fall then summer and it's awesome!

I do know how ya feel, surfing will humble you quick on a cold windy day in January.
Suchs! Redemption is pretty choice, literally.
Good luck with that.

 

[brukuns]

Every January my Inlaws get a few rooms at this Inn in Paúba (right by Maresias where Medina is from) and being summer I almost never score any waves, a few waist high days at best.

Going this Friday and the story will be a little different. Solid South swell (perfect direction for the North Shore of São Paulo as we call it) with light NE winds (perfectly offshore) for 4 days straight!

The actual Paúba beach will be on and is scary shallow, I will probably sit on the bench and just watch the locals get barreled in the sand... but Maresias (and other amazing and mellower breaks) are right by the corner, I will totally score!

Paúba:

Maresias:

I'll probably surf mostly much mellower Baleia Beach (definitely here on the biggest day):

 

[SurfFuerteventura]

Schweet! Got wet myself first time 2021.

Tuesday morning and Wednesday evening.

Must have been feeding time at the all inclusive hotels trough, cause I was pleasantly surprised to catch it practically alone.

 

[brukuns]

Soooo... Fuck the São Paulo North Shore... I know it gets really good when it's on... but if the swell changes direction just slightly it freaking misses all the spots.

I ended up surfing tiny waves everyday while watching photos of guys standing on barrels on my "local"... fuck this sh!t.

Going tomorrow for some proper surf this time.

I did manage to get a few very good small ones though. It was just frustrating because I expected the opposite. Guarujá rules and Litoral Norte can suck donkey balls.

 

[SurfFuerteventura]

Oh my brukuns... Hoy, un dia para recodar para siempre.

Tail end of this last big swell. Caught an outside reef, LOW TIDE of course.

Everyone waiting for the tide to shift, got shafted for an hour, while it was going off outside, by the rip tide the sets created up against the reef.

Only three of us from here, three tourists who didn't know where to sit and got caught inside every set.

The three of us traded off 5 wave sets... Take your fookin pick. OH on take off, chest to shoulder but plenty rippable after the first two turns. Incredible drops on take off with full rail bottom turns. Big wrapping cutbacks.

Oh my, oh my, oh my!!!

 

[brukuns]

Damn, got totally skunked today. Worst than I could have imagined. sh!t happens.

 

[SurfFuerteventura]

Damn, got totally skunked today. Worst than I could have imagined. sh!t happens.

karma points for another session! paying dues is important. the ocean notices, trust me.