yep, chaos. I’d believe it could be one of many who believed that was their wave.
it is that spot, too. we‘d send people who do that there.
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*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter b.r.
- Start date
it is that spot, too. we‘d send people who do that there.
sounds like thursday without the funky wind bump. friday leftovers started well but fizzled as the day went on. acting more like spring everydaySurfed the very low tide. No crowd to speak of. Took out the Parmy which I haven't surfed in a while.
20 min paddle out took me 1.5 blocks north. Waves were a mixture of soft, very heavy, consistent, and clean-up sets. Somewhat of a buffet to sample. Got a couple keepers; pussed out pulling into a big one that drained hard and of course it nailed me anyway. Got caught inside for 15 mins of waves on the head.
Some guy would not stop talking to me. When he started complaining about how old he is while I am thinking he is younger than me. I just burned him and went in.
Overall fun.
Got a few fun ones at Swarmies yesterday evening as the swell started to fill in. Long waits for sets, but not a lot of people out. Ran into a guy I used to surf sunset point with a lot couple years back, didn't know he grew up in Cardiff. Nice catching up.
This morning was a struggle, bobbed around for like three hours before finally getting a barrel. Didn't want to deal with crowds so sat in not really a spot getting slammed by outside sets and paddling into closeouts. Bummer but probably less frustrating than sitting with the 50 guys 100 yards away that I could hear screaming at each other.
This morning was a struggle, bobbed around for like three hours before finally getting a barrel. Didn't want to deal with crowds so sat in not really a spot getting slammed by outside sets and paddling into closeouts. Bummer but probably less frustrating than sitting with the 50 guys 100 yards away that I could hear screaming at each other.
Spent a blissful weekend with friends at a quiet lake. Swimming, eating, drinking, boating to hot pools, talking, reading. So so nice to do something completely different.
Had the morning off with a small swell, but timed the conditions well, and there was nobody out. Shoulder to HH takeoffs into waist to chest high runners. Would so have loved to be on my forehand, but can't have everything.
Had the morning off with a small swell, but timed the conditions well, and there was nobody out. Shoulder to HH takeoffs into waist to chest high runners. Would so have loved to be on my forehand, but can't have everything.
Nice job snagging a barrel. I took the 7'2 and sat on the peak. Grabbed 4 in 1.5 hours. Unfortunately most were tarnished by drop-ins or human buoys bobbing in the face of the wave, killing my line. I also made some errors like fading into the pocket when I should have stayed high and hit the gas for the racetrack section. Also tried to eject just under the lip on a closeout and got axed in the neck. Pretty sore and stiff right now.
Was proper solid on the sets though. Nice to feel some power. Also saw an insane barrel from the stairs.
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Surfed down the road. Caught zero waves in 1.5 hours. Wound up paddling inside, got caught inside, rode in on my belly. At least I didn't have my boar wack me in the thigh like the other guy I chatted with that also caught zero waves.
Say hi to Southside Johnny and Mumbles for me when you go today.
Haven't posted here in a while but thought this was worth sharing. Sunday "surfed" out front of where the power plant in CBad used to be. There was no beach just rocks which was super painful to walk on. Walked pretty far to where I thought the channel could be. I was right and paddled straight out without really duck diving. The waves were big, well over head, I'd say 8 to 10 ft. Caught a left and kicked out before making it too far inside. It seemed to be getting bigger as everyone kept having to paddle and sit further outside. There was a long lull and then out of no where a massive freak wave popped up with everyone scrambling. It probably looked like I bailed my board but the rails slipped out of my hands and I fell off to the side when I pushed to duck dive. I was right where the lip was coming down. My body went through the face and I felt by board go free from my leg behind me. Instant panic. I bobbed there and took another on the head. Everyone was waay far outside and this may have been the farthest I've ever had to sit other than at the Cliffs. I though it was the end for a moment. I couldn't hold my breath and swim any further. I considered asking another guy who was just paddling out for help. Instead I floated on my back for a minute to get calm again and swam the rest of the way in. Sh!t was scary! My 6'8" DK was down the beach on the rocks. I was surprised no open dings, just some scrapes and spider cracks on the nose. I got real lucky that day.
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Big today.
Hard to position because there would be great shaped overhead waves on the inside, but then there would be armegeddon sets. I've surfed the spot (deep water, so big distance between insiders and outsiders) for so long I know the drill, and so when I spy a dark mass outside I paddle. One set I spied and started calmly paddling out. No one else followed. Then the waves appeared. I paddled as hard as I could and barely scratched over two big ones (DOH+-), turned around and there was no one. I caught the third foamy one, kicked out early and still had to scratch again to avoid getting rolled by the straggler waves.
When the others finally started making it back out, one guy said to me, "You got lucky." I was thinking, "That wasn't luck." A second big set rolled through a while later and only myself and the guy who said I was lucky made it over. Maybe he learned his lesson? Again, empty lineup for about 15 minutes.
There were also single wave rogue sets, but they weren't so bad. You'd paddle over a wave and the wave had already broken way outside.
I only caught about 6 waves and only three were good. But on big days it's often like that.
Hard to position because there would be great shaped overhead waves on the inside, but then there would be armegeddon sets. I've surfed the spot (deep water, so big distance between insiders and outsiders) for so long I know the drill, and so when I spy a dark mass outside I paddle. One set I spied and started calmly paddling out. No one else followed. Then the waves appeared. I paddled as hard as I could and barely scratched over two big ones (DOH+-), turned around and there was no one. I caught the third foamy one, kicked out early and still had to scratch again to avoid getting rolled by the straggler waves.
When the others finally started making it back out, one guy said to me, "You got lucky." I was thinking, "That wasn't luck." A second big set rolled through a while later and only myself and the guy who said I was lucky made it over. Maybe he learned his lesson? Again, empty lineup for about 15 minutes.
There were also single wave rogue sets, but they weren't so bad. You'd paddle over a wave and the wave had already broken way outside.
I only caught about 6 waves and only three were good. But on big days it's often like that.
I've been skiing, so surfing has been in the back seat for a while. To get back in it I will now surf twice per week for the remainder of the season. I started today and was instantly rewarded 
I'll hit the slopes on Friday
I'll hit the slopes on Friday
Looks balmy.I've been skiing, so surfing has been in the back seat for a while. To get back in it I will now surf twice per week for the remainder of the season. I started today and was instantly rewarded
View attachment 173209
I'll hit the slopes on Friday
Large and mixed up this morning at the point. SE wind and two long period swells running. Rain. Almost felt like I was back in SF! Early morning crew riding a mix of standard shortboards on the inside and step-ups and mini-guns at the top of the point.
Snaked again on my first wave. Forced to make the drop straight so I didn't collide. Then couldn't get around the section. Nice to get an apology for that.
Next wave it was my turn to burn and atone. Got in first but there was someone deeper, so I kicked out.
Finally snagged a bomb with no one in front of me that connected all the way to the inside. Swung late after deeper guy couldn't scratch in. Two paddles, elevator drop. Thought I would poke but this 7'2 Hess is a magic carpet and has never let me down. Hit the bottom and drove around the section and essed through some meaty walls. Stocked!
Bottom turning with a cleanup wave behind:
Snaked again on my first wave. Forced to make the drop straight so I didn't collide. Then couldn't get around the section. Nice to get an apology for that.
Next wave it was my turn to burn and atone. Got in first but there was someone deeper, so I kicked out.
Finally snagged a bomb with no one in front of me that connected all the way to the inside. Swung late after deeper guy couldn't scratch in. Two paddles, elevator drop. Thought I would poke but this 7'2 Hess is a magic carpet and has never let me down. Hit the bottom and drove around the section and essed through some meaty walls. Stocked!
Bottom turning with a cleanup wave behind:
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Outsides looked average but was excellent. 5 of us, good vibes, great waves.
Surfed my Ghost. Sometimes forget just how good a board it is.
Surfed my Ghost. Sometimes forget just how good a board it is.
Gone for 10 days in Fiji. Warm water, warmer air, but monsoon season SUCKED. Lots of wind, but ended up surfing all 7 of the main breaks off of Viti Levu. Got one of the 3 best barrels of my life with 4 witnesses, but the rain and crappy weather prevented any photographic proof. Probably for the best. Still got some fun hoots and good times. Overall, would never return to Fiji in February if I have a choice in it. Not awful, but had many better trips. Sick of the rain storms, squalls, winds, etc. Only got a minor reef rash on the arm and had a great 4 person session at Restaurants before the crowd figured it out.
Surfed the Sandbar at home today. UGH. Bad call. Nasty brown water and jumbled up sets which the south wind ruined. Had 45 minutes solo, however, and 30 with 4 other guys after that probably questioning why I was out in the first place.
Good to be back. Now let this freaking rain end.
Surfed the Sandbar at home today. UGH. Bad call. Nasty brown water and jumbled up sets which the south wind ruined. Had 45 minutes solo, however, and 30 with 4 other guys after that probably questioning why I was out in the first place.
Good to be back. Now let this freaking rain end.
Heard it wasn't as good due to the direction of the swell. Some in town spots were firing while I was working, so missed the meat-and-potatoes of it today. By the time I hit the sandbar, it sucked. Tide was getting pretty low, which was a positive, but the wind really junked it up. That sharky point south of us was apparently firing, from what I could tell.
Hit the Queen during off hours between clients. Only had a one hour window - so had to run in and run out. But 6 waves later I was happy.
Heard yesterday morning was the stuff of dreams. Wouldn't doubt it.
Heard yesterday morning was the stuff of dreams. Wouldn't doubt it.