*** Official 2024 Community Surf Journal ***

PRCD

Tom Curren status
Feb 25, 2020
12,872
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Today definitely did not scratch the itch - tiny 1 wave sets every 20 minutes with a surly crowd. A semi-pro tried a paddle around then yelled at me but I kept going which was about the highlight of the session. I keep seeing the local shaper on a prone foil boar shaped by one of his competitors. He looks really happy riding it.

My knee has been bugging me quite a bit since Ive been back home so I havent been surfing much. Finally just said fck it and went for it today.
I thought you took your QUADZ to Swolesville on the KOTG plan. What happened?
 
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tacos

Michael Peterson status
Feb 12, 2006
3,520
563
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LB —> SF
Short sessions today and yesterday, same zone mid beach.

Yesterday was a beaut of a day conditions-wise. However, the handful of waves I caught were mostly walled, a few were more solid than I thought it would be once I got to the bottom, stood tall, and looked up at a well overhead wall about to crash down on me. Only wave that wasn’t walled was a burgery inbetweener.

Today: early-mid morning. A little smaller, south wind. Found a couple sloppy ones that stayed open long enough for a turn. The highlight was paddling out at Noriega, not getting out to the line up until north of Lawton, and getting out of the water north of Judah to hoof it back to my car.
 

PRCD

Tom Curren status
Feb 25, 2020
12,872
8,919
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Right before I headed home I was dicking around on my log in some tiny sand bottom peelers. Board flipped over and smacked my knee pretty good. Feels like it just hasnt completely recovered from that or something. I dunno. Sucks though.
We always get injured in small waves. I have my own story. Gravy shattered his collarbone in small waves too.
 

Havoc

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
May 23, 2016
7,852
12,547
113
in da hood next to paradise
Right before I headed home I was dicking around on my log in some tiny sand bottom peelers. Board flipped over and smacked my knee pretty good. Feels like it just hasnt completely recovered from that or something. I dunno. Sucks though.
contusion heals fast. i used to smack my shins with bottles when training muay thai. unless it's joint related, ur feel better in a few days
 

Havoc

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
May 23, 2016
7,852
12,547
113
in da hood next to paradise
Today definitely did not scratch the itch - tiny 1 wave sets every 20 minutes with a surly crowd. A semi-pro tried a paddle around then yelled at me but I kept going which was about the highlight of the session. I keep seeing the local shaper on a prone foil boar shaped by one of his competitors. He looks really happy riding it.


I thought you took your QUADZ to Swolesville on the KOTG plan. What happened?
who was the semi pro? oside?
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
69,245
21,760
113
The Bar
Yes to the bodyweight exercises. All the basics plus some more surf specific variations.
@Kento - Lift & push heavy sh!t. It will pay off.
Thanks. I had a decent workout routine last fall in the mornings but it got disrupted by DST and focus just shifted to endurance, especially when I got a bug up my ass about trailrunning. Practically 0 mid-upper body exercise beyond household stuff in the last few months.

And btw running 20 miles on that calf bruise later than afternoon wasn't just physically taxing but one of the more mentally exhausting things I have done in a long time, if ever.

Guess the question to ask is that if most of my endurance training is lower body, will there be any negative effects from taking 2-3 days of doing mid-upper body strength training?
 
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Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
4,458
4,889
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Guess the question to ask is that if most of my endurance training is lower body, will there be any negative effects from taking 2-3 days of doing mid-upper body strength training?
Probably not.
Seems like every aging runner I've ever talked to realizes they need to supplement running with some full body strength training.

And yeah, the socal grovel boards are no bueno for winter up here.
 
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Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,250
23,415
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PNW
I don't think a couple sessions per week of strength/mobility training will negatively impact your running @Kento . (If that was the question). Figure out where you are weakest and focus on those areas. For me the hips and core exercises have been pretty huge but everyone is different. I wouldn't completely ignore the lower body either. Running doesn't really tap into the legs full range of motion so I think some lunges/squats etc. would be worth considering. Even just 1x per week. Just don't do leg day before 20 mile run day.
 
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Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
69,245
21,760
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The Bar
Probably not.
Seems like every aging runner I've ever talked to realizes they need to supplement running with some full body strength training.

And yeah, the socal grovel boards are no bueno for winter up here.
Funny thing is, in a sense I'm not an aging runner since I just started a couple years ago. But I hear that - I can feel the need.

The really odd part is that my lower body is almost all slow, lumbering muscle, while my upper body is (seemingly) all quick-twitch muscle. So those lumbering boards are no bueno for me. Also why I realize I have problems when the surf gets bigger than DOH - I just don't have that slow, brute strength to lumber into larger waves. I scratch into sh!t fast, it's just the way I was built. I would bet starting out bodyboarding in my youth has a lot to do with that. Also a major reason why surfing on my backhand feels infinitely more natural than my forehand.

Board-wise, it's funny that I had this figured out 25 years ago. If you're tall and lanky, get a (relatively) tall and lanky board, if you're short and squatty, get a short and squatty board. So laughably simple in hindsight. The way I look at it is, if you're on the wave, you shouldn't even know the board is there because it's that much of an extension of your body and that board should slice through every turn or drop like a knife through warm butter. That's what makes a good if not magic board.

The Hawaii trip was good because that was the first time I was able to directly associate board feel with liters. So now I have an inkling. Somewhere between 30-32 liters is pretty close to what I need.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
69,245
21,760
113
The Bar
I don't think a couple sessions per week of strength/mobility training will negatively impact your running @Kento . (If that was the question). Figure out where you are weakest and focus on those areas. For me the hips and core exercises have been pretty huge but everyone is different. I wouldn't completely ignore the lower body either. Running doesn't really tap into the legs full range of motion so I think some lunges/squats etc. would be worth considering. Even just 1x per week. Just don't do leg day before 20 mile run day.
Exactly the question - thanks!

Upper body-wise, obliques and lats have taken the most losses - I notice it both paddling and playing basketball. They twinge and cramp way too easily. Bright side is my grip strength is pretty solid. I can tell by the pressure dings in the rails of my boards from duckdiving. :roflmao:

My lower core has to be really strong from running but at same time, after a long (15+ mile) run, it is tight as hell where coughing is painful and forget taking a dump. The latter isn't the worst since every time I push out a fart while running, I visualize that one sh!t-caked runner. I don't want to be that guy. :toilet:

So much of this is uncharted territory for me so I appreciate all the advice. Just the way things are up here, I need to completely refocus my mentality on a lot of things.
 
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Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
4,458
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Funny thing is, in a sense I'm not an aging runner since I just started a couple years ago. But I hear that - I can feel the need.

The really odd part is that my lower body is almost all slow, lumbering muscle, while my upper body is (seemingly) all quick-twitch muscle. So those lumbering boards are no bueno for me. Also why I realize I have problems when the surf gets bigger than DOH - I just don't have that slow, brute strength to lumber into larger waves. I scratch into sh!t fast, it's just the way I was built. I would bet starting out bodyboarding in my youth has a lot to do with that. Also a major reason why surfing on my backhand feels infinitely more natural than my forehand.

Board-wise, it's funny that I had this figured out 25 years ago. If you're tall and lanky, get a (relatively) tall and lanky board, if you're short and squatty, get a short and squatty board. So laughably simple in hindsight. The way I look at it is, if you're on the wave, you shouldn't even know the board is there because it's that much of an extension of your body and that board should slice through every turn or drop like a knife through warm butter. That's what makes a good if not magic board.

The Hawaii trip was good because that was the first time I was able to directly associate board feel with liters. So now I have an inkling. Somewhere between 30-32 liters is pretty close to what I need.

I just mean past the typical prime of teen-> twenties -> 30 when we tend to improve at everything without really trying.


We ain't getting younger
+ You're running
_______________

aging runner :nana:

I turned 40 this week. I'm an aging everything.
 
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oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,077
17,595
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San Diego, CA
As an aside, doing cost-benefit analysis of even bothering to check it anymore, for those of you who rely on surgical strikes and do not have gym or consistent pool access, what do you do to keep in surfing shape?

Push-ups/crunches/squats/etc.?
Yeah, 25-40min HIIT bodyweight/dumbbell workouts 4x/week. I use the Centr app for workouts, by Thor himself, Chris Hemsworth and his trainer Luke. Funny lil Aussie bro, keeps things light and the workouts short but intense. I notice hips/legs flexibility and core strength are the areas that I lose noticeably when I don’t workout. YMMV
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,077
17,595
113
San Diego, CA
@Kento - Lift & push heavy sh!t. It will pay off.

Surfed the Burger again today with the wifey. About a foot smaller and wind textured it up, but still fun for 1-1/2 hours. Beautiful day out there. Long drive paid off for a solo session for us for most of it, and then one other guy who stuck-to about 50' over. No issues at all. Felt like we were surfing alone.

Used the OB-1 with smaller fins today. Did not like. Turns out I'm liking the feel of the bigger AM fins. Good to know. Wouldn't have ever thought it was an issue, but now feel a bit enlightened. At least to feel.
OB1 is a big diamond tail right? Assume it’s pretty fast. What kinda waves do you like the boar best in?
 

sh3

Michael Peterson status
Dec 1, 2008
2,557
3,440
113
OB1 is a big diamond tail right? Assume it’s pretty fast. What kinda waves do you like the boar best in?
@Kento - you're doing it right. Those days you take off from running make you a stronger runner. Don't do it every day, obviously. Lift and work the upper body and core, and you're running (especially trails) will only get better.

@oeste858 - It is a big diamond tail. It's pretty fast but flatter than I thought. It works best as a grovel/gravel board for me. Not a performance wave board. Rocker isn't optimal for late drops or steep faces, but it works great in more 'mushy' conditions. Honestly, if I got another, I'd go an inch or two longer. #notgaycode

By the way, no surf today. Had a brief opening between a few clients, but nothing locally meant I'd have to drive an hour each way to find surf. not gonna happen today. :(
 
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Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
69,245
21,760
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The Bar
I just mean past the typical prime of teen-> twenties -> 30 when we tend to improve at everything without really trying.


We ain't getting younger
+ You're running
_______________

aging runner :nana:

I turned 40 this week. I'm an aging everything.
Ah yes in that sense. I agree. Just starting late to the running game and stopped mogul skiing when I was 15 so my knees are fresh and I am setting consistent PBs without really setting out to do so. Coming up on 500 days sober has a huge amount to do with this, I think.

Yeah, 25-40min HIIT bodyweight/dumbbell workouts 4x/week. I use the Centr app for workouts, by Thor himself, Chris Hemsworth and his trainer Luke. Funny lil Aussie bro, keeps things light and the workouts short but intense. I notice hips/legs flexibility and core strength are the areas that I lose noticeably when I don’t workout. YMMV
Thanks! I'll have to check that out. Especially for surfing and being older, crouching down isn't the hard part, it's standing straight back up again that's the trouble. :roflmao: Developing more explosive strength in my legs/core would be nice. Think that would help a lot of aspects in both surfing and non-surfing.

@Kento - you're doing it right. Those days you take off from running make you a stronger runner. Don't do it every day, obviously. Lift and work the upper body and core, and you're running (especially trails) will only get better.
Thanks! I have 1/4 cord of wood to chop up so that should be a good way back into getting that upper body working again. Noticed during my runs that the chopping stumps left on the side of the road are still there. Moving heavy sh!t? 3 weeks of rain have soaked into those mfers - I think I have a good idea why no one has claimed them. :roflmao:
 
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doc_flavonoid

Michael Peterson status
Dec 27, 2019
1,806
3,333
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So much of this is uncharted territory for me so I appreciate all the advice. Just the way things are up here, I need to completely refocus my mentality on a lot of things.
The really odd part is that my lower body is almost all slow, lumbering muscle, while my upper body is (seemingly) all quick-twitch muscle. So those lumbering boards are no bueno for me. Also why I realize I have problems when the surf gets bigger than DOH - I just don't have that slow, brute strength to lumber into larger waves. I scratch into sh!t fast, it's just the way I was built.

The Hawaii trip was good because that was the first time I was able to directly associate board feel with liters. So now I have an inkling. Somewhere between 30-32 liters is pretty close to what I need.
i got a couple things for you. don't read anything into it, cuz its all just my well meaning take so you can have more fun during ur limited window

hawaii is not here. neither is socal. + ur not surfing enough regardless of ur fitness. so forget what you think you know about board sizing...

and ride more foam. conservatively like a 6-4 daily driver and a 6-8 step up. 38-42l. lots of guys similar sized to you locally like their ghosts and step down phantoms so its a good place to start

ur surfing heavy beach break. shifty. lots of water moving. foam is ur friend. when its doh+ dont fuk around bring a 7-6 around 3"+ thick

also because your not in the water as much these days ur probably not reading it that well. ur quik paddle probably works oke when you can sit on the spot. otherwise its kind of a liability imo

more better to i.d. it early and put that wingspan to use. start paddling early, get some board speed up, track em down and get in early. less drama. more fun. more foam.

just my 2cents. probably less with it looking like spring out here but good luck
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,250
23,415
113
PNW
If I recall Kento likes longer equipment but has yet to fully embrace teh foam is ur friend philosophy.

I get it. Some of my worst boards have been ones that I oversized.

The used board market is good for buyers right now so that would be my suggestion for more cheaply experimenting with different stuff.

I think 30-32L is kinda low for someone your size @Kento, if I am remembering your rough height and weight correctly.