yeah fvck santacrvzin and his newly frequented point break shvitty wax job indo surfing sweet and delicious bag of sugarI used to like santacruzin before he became such an insufferable epic-wave-scoring gloater
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yeah fvck santacrvzin and his newly frequented point break shvitty wax job indo surfing sweet and delicious bag of sugarI used to like santacruzin before he became such an insufferable epic-wave-scoring gloater
back in the US now.yeah fvvk santacrvzin and his newly frequented point break shvitty wax job indo surfing sweet and delicious bag of sugar
but how was the board?Was having an epic Sunday surfing fun, leftover storm surf. First session was 8am low tide CH outside sandbar peelers on the Lightbender. Surfed for almost 3 hours. After that, walked down to the corner with the wife and pooch and had a large, late morning breakfast.
Went home and napped for 45 minutes (I was torched). Woke up, ran down to the beach to see what high tide looked like and it was surprisingly still offshore and fun looking. Ran home and grabbed my Plasmic and ran to the beach. Wife commented as I’m leaving “you’re going again?” Me: “Yes. Probably shouldn’t because I’m tired as fook, but it’s going to be flat after today.”
Get down there and catch a dozen or so clean WH high tide runners breaking in about a foot of water. After about a hour, I start thinking it’s time to head in, so I see a set coming and grab it but it closes out in front of me. I bail out (awkwardly) and go under. As I’m coming up board smacks me dead in the face right at the bridge of my nose. fook! Immediately put my hand up to my face and it’s covered in blood.
I’m cussing myself as I get out of the water, more from being injured than being in pain. The beach is absolutely packed because of memorial day weekend, so people are staring and I hear whispers of “I wonder what happened to him?” as I walk by with blood streaming down my face. I stop at a group of people that have a tent and a bunch of food and asked them if they have any paper towels. One of the girls immediately jumps up and hands me some ice and paper towels and asks me if I want a shot of Fireball. I declined. I hate shots. And I definitely hate Fireball. Lol.
Walk back to the house where I tell the wife what happened. She takes a look at me and thinks I may have broke my nose. She puts me in the car and drives me to the minute clinic where they do x-rays. X-rays come back negative so they glue the gash on my nose together and it’s back to the house for margaritas and cervecas Head’s pounding today and nose is swollen as fook.
Moral of the story: don’t surf when you’re tired
I still havent completely forgiven you for Indo but this helpsSurfed sh!t waves in cold water lately haha
so great to be back