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*** Official 2023 Community Surf Journal ***

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Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
26,216
7,564
113
today was smaller. personal peak 1 wasnt hardly even breaking but there was a little something on personal peak 2, so i went.
a few good waves, mostly just good for 1 strong turn and 1 weak one. but at least i was alone.
remember the dipshit that i said followed me on sunday and ruined my day? my nightmare was that he would continue to follow me day after day. well he paddled out right to my peak again. granted he was trying to be slightly respectful by getting leftovers, but if i caught a wave he would move his gaylord ass right onto my takeoff spot. during this bullshit the main peak a few hundred yards away at the spot that actually has a name was empty. dipshit didnt know enough to go there, he just followed me instead. its like i am teaching a class in positioning, but i am not getting paid. when a random longboard dork who also didnt realize there was an empty peak at the real spot also followed me... i figured its time to try another peak and go in. took forever to get a mushy piece of crap before i quit.
 
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oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,052
17,545
113
San Diego, CA
Goofy_Footed said:
We've had a decent little run of waves since Monday. It started at CH-HH chunky and fun, then WH-CH offshore on Tuesday, and KH-WH offshore yesterday.

Rode the Plasmic yesterday and had fun in the small stuff. Kicked out of one wave and continued to stand on my board and hit bottom. Didn't think it did any damage, but when I was taking the fins out this morning, I noticed that I crushed the fin box a bit :socrazy: off to the local ding repair guy she goes. Second time in two weeks!

View attachment 155886
Click to expand...
Pizza stains probably would’ve protected the fin box better.
 
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oeste858

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,052
17,545
113
San Diego, CA
Wind came up by the time I could get out this afternoon to a reef that picks up some south. Probably would’ve been decent an hour or two earlier but was pretty onshore WH-CH crap.
Rode 6’6 twin again and got a few backside wraps in. Kicked out of one wave after a final slash and checked my back foot position vs. fins… was close but definitely could’ve gone a couple inches further back. LOL
Three of us out, all decent surfers on mids = nice little rotation going both directions.
Well, my right shoulder was definitely feeling it more than yesterday, so I should probably try to give it a rest for a few days. Expect a little swell pulse to pop up
 
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sdsrfr

sdsrfr

Phil Edwards status
Jul 13, 2020
5,998
11,519
113
San Diego
Havoc said:
sloppy junky crowded. got 4 waves and split. bounced off the bottom on a suckout closeout section. fin to the hand. that kinda day. townsend felt good but not as fast and loose as my tkf long line
Click to expand...
Did you ever post a pic of that for me to zoom in on?
 
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Retropete

Retropete

Phil Edwards status
Jan 20, 2006
6,040
4,578
113
Sunny Coast Qld Australia
Had a look at the Northern end of the coast where I surfed yesterday. Likes a NW'er but by the time I got there there was a light SW blowing. There were a crew of rippers on a left that had plenty of closeouts but some great looking hollow overhead lefts as well. Big rip running right through the right hand bank I surfed the day before on the RTT. Way more consistent today and so headed South to find a spot handling the SW better.
Passed through a small town which had clean waves on offer but nary a car park to be had on a sunny Saturday morning in winter which was heading towards a top temp of 24C.
So kept going and pulled in to a beach where wifey and I worked our food stall last night. Only about 5 out spread over a couple of peaks and lots of waves breaking. Spotted a rip to paddle out in and scampered out on the RTT.
Plenty of waves coming through with quite a few closeouts on the low tide but there were ones that A framed and the sets had us scratching over them. 5-6 waves in a set. Saw some waves come through that you would have been happy to see if you were on a boat trip in the Ments they were that pretty to look at.
Wind slowly started to swing more onshore. Had one clean up set that came through which was way bigger than any other sets and I had no hope of getting under even the first wave before it detonated in front of me. Duckdived under all of them without getting my board ripped out of my hands. Wasn't keen to have to swim in against the rip if the leggie snapped.
Only other guy nearby me was further inside and got a good flogging.
Wasn't long after this I decided I had scored enough and went in.
My mate who I surf with a lot was playing cricket today and missed it. He loves a punchy wave and was spewing he missed it.
Winds aren't looking good for tomorrow but hopefully will get lucky with a cheeky offshore in the am due to the cooler nights.
 
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need 4 speed

need 4 speed

Phil Edwards status
Nov 1, 2003
6,725
3,637
113
SoCal
A few waist high South runners, clean glassy condition, just not much swell or anything to cross up. Made a couple close out off the tops. New basalt board feels great
 
Aruka

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,226
23,353
113
PNW
Tried surfing yesterday for the first time in months. Chest high and glassy. Somewhat soft, shifty, walled up running rights. Havent surfed this spot in years and it was a different left bar back then. Plasmid was perfect for the conditions. Got in early and cruised down the line on a few. It felt so good just to be in the water and I didnt feel as unfit and slow as I'd expected. Floated a few sections and got a few pleasing swoops. Nothing too worrisome. Eventually I got a nice set wave and pushing through the bottom turn I could feel the knee protesting. Tried one more wave and could feel some pain as I twisted the knee on a cutback. Went in. Not ready for prime time I guess. Feels okay today so I don't think I set myself back much but not gonna lie I'm pretty bummed. Was hoping I could at least get away with the occasional big board/soft wave session as I rehab but I guess not.
 
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silentbutdeadly

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,850
23,801
113
Tower 13
I'm sure you are but how are you doing on the strength/rehab program?

I got to a certain point with mine where I kept up the exercises, started surfing through some pain then it went away.
 
Aruka

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,226
23,353
113
PNW
Rehab has been going well which is why I felt like I might be able to surf again. I can do deep squats and lunges without pain. Hiking a few miles every day, sometimes with 20lb. weighted vest, no problem. Even been doing a few slow runs which didn't seem to bother it. Something about the twisting or maybe just my stupid drop knee style just did not feel good.
 
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